Oil change question?

Energy One
P

Pitbull08117

Member
Why does it say in the owner's manual not to drain the crankcase? I've been changing my own oil for years but only in my vehicles, never on a motorcycle. My bike is a 2008 Pitbull, and I am changing the fluids for the first time, maybe ever. The bike only has about 3k miles on it, and I'm not 100% sure the PO ever changed the oil. It is draining as I write this, extremely black and thick. Also, the oil was low, maybe down 1/2 quart. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
P

Pitbull08117

Member
Also, I purchased an Amsoil filter, one quart of V-twin primary fluid and one quart V-twin tranny fluid. I decided to go with the HD dinosaur oil, only because my guy who maintains my other bike (07 Electraglide) said the the EVO engines didn't do well with synthetic oil, in that it could cause a leak.
 
P

Pitbull08117

Member
dentdude36 said:
Use synthetic in transmission for sure not synthetic in primary
Click to expand...
I have some Rotella 15-40 oil here, would that work? Seems like I used it in a dirt bike one time. Apologies for all of the questions, but I'm new to this and don't want to mess anything up. I could run out to Advance and get something for the primary, being that it's Sunday afternoon and they would be the only ones open.
 
Brandon Downey

Brandon Downey

Active Member
:agree: get the Rogue Chopper oil scavenger. It's worth the $69 to get the last bit of dirty oil out during your oil change.
 
Coolbreezin

Coolbreezin

Active Member
I did a lot of research regarding best or most used primary fluid. I read a lot about people using Trick Shift automotive tranny fluid.
I was unable to get neutral while sitting still with my old tranny fluid (yes, the clutch was adj correctly). When I did the first the primary change to the Trick Shift, it was total magic. I was able to get neutral and the over all shifting was soooo much smoother. I did read that auto tranny fluid does not give the lubrication that regular primary fluid does, but those that did use it love it and also put in their HDs. Good enough for me. I now swear by this stuff.
 
SMCT

SMCT

Active Member
Why does it say in the owner's manual not to drain the crankcase? I've been changing my own oil for years but only in my vehicles, never on a motorcycle.
Click to expand...
Due to the thick viscosity of the engine oils for these and Harley motorcycles, it's best that they be nice and warm/hot before doing your oil change. Schedule that change accordingly and leave yourself that half hour or so after a good long ride. The oil is thin at this point and most of it will come out. Remove three items. The oil tanks drain plug. The crankcase drain plug and the oil filter. In that order. With the oil filter off and your tank and case drain plug back into place, fire that engine up and allow it to run for about 15 to 18 seconds. That's right, without any oil in it. you will notice that it will start to pump out the remaining oil out of the filters housing. You won't hurt anything by doing so for this short period of time, but what you will do is get out about another 1/4 of a quart of old oil. Since these only hold about 2-3/4 total, that 1/4 of a quart can contaminate that new oil by mixing with it. Checking these engines cold is kinda useless. They need to be nice and warmed up. When completely warmed up, with a little above idle and on the stand, **you want it just at the bottom of the elbow.

Idle vs just above idle: at idle this engines don't scavenge well, so that means your getting a false reading whereas as portion of that total oil is in the crankcase. When off idle, the scavenge side of the pump picks up speed and puts more up in the oil tank. If your filled at idle, you can go overfilled at slightly off idle and better.

**Not sure if the oil tank construction is the same on the Pitbull as it is on the K9. This oil level area pertains to K9.
 
Last edited:
P

Pitbull08117

Member
Thanks for all of the suggestions and tips. I went with the Amsoil tranny fluid and used HD dinosaur oil in the engine and primary. That was last weekend, haven't had a chance to get it out this week, rainy and nasty here in SW Virginia, but maybe tomorrow I can ride it a bit. I hope to have my Big Dog for several years and am looking forward to learning all I can about it!
 
PROFLYER

PROFLYER

SWOLE
No, you want synthetic in the engine. For sure. These get HOT especailly if you're in any sort of traffic on a hot day. I was turned on to the Schaffer's oil by @Mr. Wright and they make a 20w-50 v-twin full syn. I honestly can't believe how much quieter my top end is now after having changed it--and I've owned this K9 since it was new in 06. You want synthetic in everything BUT the primary. I like the B&M Trick Shift in the primary as well, but it doesn't really matter so much--the primary oil is simply to lube the chain, the clutch can run dry actually. If you put syn in the primary the clutch will slip.
 
john sachs

john sachs

Well-Known Member
The bullshit ends.:(
It's perfectly ok to use synthetic oil in your EVO type, S&S , Ultima, Twin Cam, and most any other internal combustion engine.
If it leaks past any gasket, or seal, you've had a HACK work on your stuff.
I wouldn't consider using anything but synthetic oil in anything I drive on the street.
John
 
francoblay1

francoblay1

The Spaniard
john sachs said:
The bullshit ends.:(
It's perfectly ok to use synthetic oil in your EVO type, S&S , Ultima, Twin Cam, and most any other internal combustion engine.
If it leaks past any gasket, or seal, you've had a HACK work on your stuff.
I wouldn't consider using anything but synthetic oil in anything I drive on the street.
John
Click to expand...
YES!!!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top