Oil Additives

slowrower

2007 Mastiff
Anyone ever try engine additives like ZMAX in your scoots? I did after it broke in and I swear it runs much quieter and feels smoother now. Also looking at changing over to synthetic from dino now the motor is fully broken in hoping it will make an improvement in noise and heat.
 

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
Anyone ever try engine additives like ZMAX in your scoots? I did after it broke in and I swear it runs much quieter and feels smoother now. Also looking at changing over to synthetic from dino now the motor is fully broken in hoping it will make an improvement in noise and heat.
I run Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50w Full Synthetic in mine....:2thumbs:
 

Chopper Dave

SIICK!!!
How long have ya and are you still under warranty?
:up:
When my bike was in for my 5000 service...I had them put the Mobil 1 in.....I took my bike in for my 5000 service when I had around 4400 miles on it.....and now I have 5062 miles on it......runs great!.......yes I am still under warranty.....
 

narow37

Angry Southern White Man
No additives but, been running Royal Purple since 4000 miles and still under warranty.
 

CCRainman

Well-Known Member
No oil additives needed. Just run the synthetic after break n and you'll be fine. I personally run Amsoil but to each their own. Synthetic is synthetic especially if you are changing every 2500-3000 miles.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
I put Amsoil in at 3000 and it runs good - I wanted Mobil as they are associated with S&S but couldn't easily find it - I think i know where I can get some now though so will use that next time - I'm also going to scavenge out the shit next time
 

Fibersnake

Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
Been putting the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 in my 05 since about 3500-4000 miles, have a little over 14,000 on it now and with the exception of having the orginal heads changed out due to valve guide issues (related to TP Rockers), have had no major problems.

If I recall right though, the valve noise was a little louder when I changed over but to be honest it was so long ago, it may have been in my mind.

Oh it was under warrenty when I first put it in and there is no effect on the warrenty if you put it on any syn in, best to wait till it broken in though.

Still change it routinely though and do not recommend thinking that you have syn and thus can now go longer between oil changes. Not worth the risk to save $15 by extended it out IMHO!!
 

Lone Dog

Motorcycle Junkie
Has anyone explored using Harley synthetics? I only ask b/c that is about the only v-twin syn I am going to find over here.
 

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
Here is what I run, Royal Purple XPR:

http://www.royalpurple.com/xpr-racing-oil-rh.html

At $13 a quart, you don't want to change it every 2000 miles!!!

Good shit though. I figure if this stuff is good enough for race engines, It should be good enough for the Dawg!

Here is one of the feedback letters from a customer off of Royal's site:

____________________________________________________________

CUSTOMER COMMENTS:

“The main reason for the note is to praise Royal Purple for the awesome oil products it offers. I run XPR 10W40 in my motor and have for years without any issues. This past weekend I threw the oil pump belt off right after launching the car and made a full pass with 30 lbs. of boost running 4.72 @ 155 without any oil pressure.

I took the oil pan pre-filter off and found no metal and also cut open the oil filter to find no metal. We changed the oil filter and ran the rest of the event without any issues. … Without Royal Purple in this engine I would not have made it through the rest of the race. Please send my thanks out to the rest of the staff for putting a great product out to the racers.”

—Chris Ridge, ridgeracing.com
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
I think you will find that most of the HD products such as oil/filters are going to be half way desent. That is the case with most of the manufacture endorsed oils, even for the jap bikes. I have ran nothing but HD oils in the the wife's HD and plan to continue that direction. Further, I ran HD normal oil in my dog up till my switch to mobil 1
 

chacha

Chaff Your EHC!!
Calendar Participant
Lone Dog Wrote;

Has anyone explored using Harley synthetics? I only ask b/c that is about the only v-twin syn I am going to find over here.
I am running the Screaming Chicken HD synthetic on my Dog right now. I used it as the transition oil when I decided to go synthetic in October. I'm going to be changing it out in a week or two and have Mobile 1 on the shelf.

I was fine with the HD product and have had no problems with it in the Dog or the Nightrain.
 
I've been thinking about switching to synthetic to see if it'll hold my flywheels together(just kidding)..the only difference I notice with synthetic is that if you've got a leak..it'll find it...shouldn't be an issue though with any newer bike..it's strikes me kind of odd though that S&S used to tell you not to put synthetic in and now they endorse it...could it be that Mobil 1 has changed their minds or they're pocketbooks? I think as long as you change your oil frequently (especially in hot temps, dusty areas) and use a good quality vtwin oil everything should be fine...I don't think the brand matters as much as the frequency of the oil change...oil's cheap and motors ain't
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
it's strikes me kind of odd though that S&S used to tell you not to put synthetic in and now they endorse it...could it be that Mobil 1 has changed their minds or they're pocketbooks?
Same with Harley. :confused:
 

Lone Dog

Motorcycle Junkie
I heard nightmare stories about dudes putting syn in their old shovelheads, but alot of those suckers leaked anyway.

Maybe build practices/materials have changed to accomodate synthentics.

Sorry to jack the thread.
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
I heard nightmare stories about dudes putting syn in their old shovelheads, but alot of those suckers leaked anyway.

Maybe build practices/materials have changed to accomodate synthentics.

Sorry to jack the thread.
Same goes for older cars that never had ehtonal added gasoline... the ehtonal (basically alchohol) cleaned the tank, lines, plugged up filters, and burned out sledge...causing all types of problems.

One thing that should be noted when speaking about oils.

Dino or synthetic

Be sure to get the air cooled v-twin oil, usually a 20W-50. Don't use the other types!
 

reloaderbmg

OLD DOG
have amsoil 20w50 in the engine of a 2007 k9, had it in primary & trans. but took it out , shifting was terrible, noise from primary was "loud"
now have mobil 90w140 in trans, [great] i live in florida,
and revtec in the side box!!!
 
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CCRainman

Well-Known Member
have amsoil 20w50 in the engine of a 2007 k9, had it in primary & trans. but took it out , shifting was terrible, noise from primary was "loud"
now have mobil 90w140 in trans, [great] i live in florida,
and revtec in the side box!!!
You should try the Redline heavy shock for the tranny. Baker recommends it and the bike will shift like butter. Most of the guys on here run the Redline.
 

Coolbreeze

Active Member
S&S has approved Mobil 1 for thier motors, but I run Amsoil 20w50 in the motor, 10w40 in the primary and 75w90 gear oil (all Amsoil). And not because I'm a dealer. Its really good Shit
 
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