Noise from carb, EFI

Energy One

Kiwirider

Active Member
Hi all.
Question for yas. I have an 08 Mastiff EFI. Today I gave the bike a very light wash. Now there is a noise coming from the carb area with the ignition off and key removed. Its the same noise when you switch the engine off and is like a sensor/injector or something reseting. This sound usually only does it for a few seconds after shut down, but this is now constantly cycling what ever its doing.

Any ideas?
 

MARV

Well-Known Member
First pinpoint which sensor. Then Id pull the battery cables so as not to drain. Then dry out that sensor.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
First pinpoint which sensor. Then Id pull the battery cables so as not to drain. Then dry out that sensor.
Disagree. Keep the batter in play, yank the sensor that stops the noise. Tape the key switch over? Follow the flow:

1. Battery
2. Key
3. Sensor

That is the flow. Here is the :confused:

1. Battery
2. Sensor
3. Key

This flow says; How do I have my battery bypass my key fob? That means, I have a direct flow to the sensor from battery, no break from the switch?

Watt are the odds, a wash is a puddle down the key assembly, is sending a hot to a sensor/coil/??? from battery to sensor via a puddle touching one (+) to a (-) or I've been doing dis too long :job:
 

fmschatz

Bullfighter
It is probably the fuel pump running. My EFI on my Wolf did the same thing and they had to replace the fuel pump.
 

scott70d

Member
IT sounds like the fuel pump may be running their is no other eleco mechanical things on that dog that make noise. BUT with the key out some thing is wrong like already said a water short . I would start at the key switch. I would go to the EHC and do a cleaning and dielectric grease.
 

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
From Marv
First pinpoint which sensor. Then Id pull the battery cables so as not to drain. Then dry out that sensor.
Just pull the guard off the top of your throttle body which is your top motor mount bolt on the other side holding it on. Only a couple of sensors in there which all have quick disconnects on them. TPS, IAC,MAP,IAT and ETS. All of these with the exception of the IAC are return signals. The IAC From your description, you should be able to identify the problem. I would bet the IAC, idle air control is your issue seeing how it cycles or counts.
Neil
 
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Sven

Well-Known Member
I would bet the IAC, idle air control is your issue seeing how it cycles or counts.
Neil
I would take that bet. If no idle cable, but an IAC for start and idle, then when key is on, the first move is choke. So, is this a stepper motor on, or is the relay buzzing first to move the stepper?
 

ksmike

Active Member
It sounds like to me that water has got into some place where it shouldn't be. I would get the power off of the bike by unhooking the battery immediately. The longer water stays on a circuit that has voltage on it, the worse the corrosion and a short could get. Once the power is off, get it dried out by air or some other means. Maybe some water is in the switch, or hand controls, or connection etc. Dry them out, pull the connections apart, dry and grease them. If you find some corrosion on circuits use some isopropyl alcohol, or rubbing in a pinch to scrub down any corrosion found. Use a small brush, alcohol, air, . The alcohol will displace the water and dry quicker. WD-40 advertises for water displacement also, but too messy for me..
 

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
I would take that bet. If no idle cable, but an IAC for start and idle, then when key is on, the first move is choke. So, is this a stepper motor on, or is the relay buzzing first to move the stepper?
It is a stepper motor controlled by the ECM computer. The relay is turned on by the ECM which then supplies voltage to the O2's, fuel injectors, ignition coil and fuel pump.
This why it is a good thing to have dielectric grease in your connectors.
 

Kiwirider

Active Member
From Marv
Just pull the guard off the top of your throttle body which is your top motor mount bolt on the other side holding it on. Only a couple of sensors in there which all have quick disconnects on them. TPS, IAC,MAP,IAT and ETS. All of these with the exception of the IAC are return signals. The IAC From your description, you should be able to identify the problem. I would bet the IAC, idle air control is your issue seeing how it cycles or counts.
Neil
Thats kinda what I was thinking. Its stopped doing it now by itself. The noise it makes, it has always made when I switch the engine off and turn the key off. Its like something is reseting. Its not the fuel pump, I have that noise when it pressurizes the tank before start up.Have had shit weather here, big storm front come through, so will go out and check it still starts ok and run it for a few mins. All the connections are well greased, Im anal like that.
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
It's the IAC, like Neil said.

An IAC (Idle Air Controller) can get carbon built up under the valve seat and cause idle and other problems. If the problem persist then you could remove the IAC for inspection and cleaning of the valve and seat. DO NOT SCRATCH THE SEAT OR VALVE FACES.

NOTE: Always kill the EFI bike engines using the handlebar STOP button......THEN turn off the KEY switch.
 
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