NO POweR
- Thread starter RaYzoR357
- Start date
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Welcome from NJ,
Make sure all your connections are correct and clean and tight. Does your EHC have fault lights lit?
Dropbox - Error - Simplify your life
Last edited:
Welcome from Northwest Florida. 
Welcome from Florida RaYzoR! I agree with SCC007. If it was working before it’s something that happened when the changes were made. Go back through all your connections.
SKOGDOG
One of the old ones.
What Mickmorris said.
One time after a battery change, mine wouldn’t start worth a hoot until I located and connected the +side battery wire that had fallen 3/4”...haha. Yet another valuable corrective experience.
Note to self: Remember to only change one item at a time, especially those pesky electric things......and test them in between.
One time after a battery change, mine wouldn’t start worth a hoot until I located and connected the +side battery wire that had fallen 3/4”...haha. Yet another valuable corrective experience.
Note to self: Remember to only change one item at a time, especially those pesky electric things......and test them in between.
With a test light, ground the alligator clip, the ice pick probe goes to any wire that lights the light at the key switch:
a. Light goes on, it's not a fuse.
b. Light is not showing hot to any wire, then go back to the fuse.
c. Battery to fuse. Fuse to key switch. Key switch out to other wires... Follow the source out from the first jobber [fuse] from battery. Fuse shows good, then it is a break in the wire from the fuse side out to key switch. You sort of walk each connection for some insight as to how it flows out of the battery.
What was the last thing you did before it ran is the question, right? 'New ignition' is what? New spark box, new cam sensor, new ignition switch, new ignition coil?
For the power to be shut off with any ignition change, hard to believe a plug and play shuts off all the lights. Was the battery charged on the bike or battery out of bike? Then as mentioned, a main posi side wire off the battery post is a possibility of not being hooked back up:
a. With test light, you want to pick the farthest eyelet away from the posi (+) side of the post of the battery, then stab the pick into the other side of the posi leaded post and see if the test light comes on?
b. Do the same with the neg (-) cable, [key on] then jump over to the lead side and see if cables to battery posts have that flow out to the main wire harness wires at the battery. But this time, alligator clip goes to key switch wire say. Or to the fuse with a sewing needle touching the exposed metal at the top of the fuse. Alligator clip to ground testing both [neg] cable to lead won't show the transfer remember, right?
Make sense test light wise?
I see your in Clarksville. Going to be passing through there next Wednesday on the way to Camden Tn. Just a quick drive by of Fort Campbell for old times sake.