bearman
Active Member
To test the EHC, you would have to get it running by "bypassing" the EHC and leaving everything else hooked up (all the connectors). The following ignition circuit test should eliminate some connection questions, and all battery questions. All connectors will need to he connected like normal because all the grounds go back to the EHC, except for the starter.
THIS WILL NOT HURT THE EHC. This will be hooking up power to places that should already have power from the EHC (if it is good). It is kind of like hooking up one end of a wire to the positive side of the battery, then hooking the other end to the same side of the battery, nothing happens. Nothing will burn up unless you hook something up wrong.
Now
Put in a jumper wire from the red wire going into the ignition module to the battery, (there are 3 sets of wires going to the ignition module, you want the red wire in the set with the green and black).
Don't cut the ignition wire, just strip some insulation from it and twist the jumper wire around it or use a small alligator clip (I would use an alligator clip on both ends of this wire). You want to attach the jumper to the wire between the 3-wire connector and the module (close to the module as you can get and still be able to re-insulate the wire when done).
Touch the other end to the positive side of the battery. This will bypass one of the internal relays in the EHC and you should get a red light on the ignition module.
If you get the red light then your ground connections are good this far and your EHC is suspect.
If you don't get the red light you're back to square one, checking for shorted wires, bad connections, bad ignition, ect., but on the bright side your EHC is probably good.
Now to get it started;
Once you get the red light, turn on the key and try the start button. There's a chance that the ignition jumper will back feed some other things in the EHC, but I wouldn't count on it.
If the start button doesn't work, then disconnect the green wire at the starter and make another jumper from where the green wire goes into the starter to the positive side of the battery. you will probably need a spade connector on the starter end (bare end on the other end). This will need to be at least a 14 gauge wire and it still may get warm after a few seconds.
Make sure you transmission is in neutral, back tire off the ground is even better. When you touch the battery with this bare end of the starter jumper wire, you gonna get a big spark, and the starter should spin the engine over (just touch it to the battery, don't attach it). It doesn't matter if the key is on or off for this.
If you got the red light on the ignition, it should fire up and run like normal. If it fires up, immediately un-touch the starter jumper wire from the battery, it should stay running now as long as the ignition wire is still connected.
If it cranks and runs, you will have to disconnect the ignition jumper to turn it off.
To eliminate the connections between the ignition module and EHC, remove the ignition jumper wire from near the ignition module and attach it the same way to the same wire at the back side of the EHC connector (pin A19 at the EHC), it will be the red wire right next to the middle big wire (blue) 4th from the end. If you still get the red light on the ignition module then the connections are good to the ignition module.
If you can get it cranked and running like this, then you have effectively ruled out your ignition circuit connections and all battery questions.
That just leaves the EHC, the EHC connections and the power wire from the battery to the EHC (big red wire pin number A3).
THIS WILL NOT HURT THE EHC. This will be hooking up power to places that should already have power from the EHC (if it is good). It is kind of like hooking up one end of a wire to the positive side of the battery, then hooking the other end to the same side of the battery, nothing happens. Nothing will burn up unless you hook something up wrong.
Now
Put in a jumper wire from the red wire going into the ignition module to the battery, (there are 3 sets of wires going to the ignition module, you want the red wire in the set with the green and black).
Don't cut the ignition wire, just strip some insulation from it and twist the jumper wire around it or use a small alligator clip (I would use an alligator clip on both ends of this wire). You want to attach the jumper to the wire between the 3-wire connector and the module (close to the module as you can get and still be able to re-insulate the wire when done).
Touch the other end to the positive side of the battery. This will bypass one of the internal relays in the EHC and you should get a red light on the ignition module.
If you get the red light then your ground connections are good this far and your EHC is suspect.
If you don't get the red light you're back to square one, checking for shorted wires, bad connections, bad ignition, ect., but on the bright side your EHC is probably good.
Now to get it started;
Once you get the red light, turn on the key and try the start button. There's a chance that the ignition jumper will back feed some other things in the EHC, but I wouldn't count on it.
If the start button doesn't work, then disconnect the green wire at the starter and make another jumper from where the green wire goes into the starter to the positive side of the battery. you will probably need a spade connector on the starter end (bare end on the other end). This will need to be at least a 14 gauge wire and it still may get warm after a few seconds.
Make sure you transmission is in neutral, back tire off the ground is even better. When you touch the battery with this bare end of the starter jumper wire, you gonna get a big spark, and the starter should spin the engine over (just touch it to the battery, don't attach it). It doesn't matter if the key is on or off for this.
If you got the red light on the ignition, it should fire up and run like normal. If it fires up, immediately un-touch the starter jumper wire from the battery, it should stay running now as long as the ignition wire is still connected.
If it cranks and runs, you will have to disconnect the ignition jumper to turn it off.
To eliminate the connections between the ignition module and EHC, remove the ignition jumper wire from near the ignition module and attach it the same way to the same wire at the back side of the EHC connector (pin A19 at the EHC), it will be the red wire right next to the middle big wire (blue) 4th from the end. If you still get the red light on the ignition module then the connections are good to the ignition module.
If you can get it cranked and running like this, then you have effectively ruled out your ignition circuit connections and all battery questions.
That just leaves the EHC, the EHC connections and the power wire from the battery to the EHC (big red wire pin number A3).
