Ron I believe you may have just had your first chance to help someone out.some of the other guys might can help you more than me but I will do the best I can sir.i do think your battery is dead I would try to charge the battery out of the bike.see if battery will take a charge .that will help determine if your battery is good a starting point.you said 3.4 volts while still in bike and 12.4 out of bike .with battery out and disconnected it will read 12 volts unless completely dead with no load on it .there is a difference in voltage and amperage .it takes amperage to start ,run ,and operate electronics on your bike.you have a dead battery sir .charge battery make sure it is good if so put battery back into bike it should start then , start bike up with bike running check voltage at battery then with r p m slightly increased should have bout 13.8 to 14.5 if charging system is working properly .if voltage is still low turn engine off unplug connector from regulator to stator at left front of engine look for corrosion inside connector if so clean connector put dialectric lube in connector and plug back in restart bike and recheck voltage then .hope that works.if bike has been ridden in the rain much moisture will get in plug and cause corrosion .if that still don't give you proper voltage at battery .turn bike off unplug connector .restart bike set volt meter to a c volts check voltage at stator terminals should be around 60 volts a c. if so I would say regulator is bad if voltage at terminals is below 60 I would think stator is bad ..wit engine off check stator terminals to a ground should get no reading if you do then stator is probably bad .. hope this has helped you sir I am one of the newer members and never had the chance to help anyone else .but other members have helped me several times .these guys are the best help ever..also any of you other members that read this post and can give more help than I did or correct my advice please feel free to do so .would be greatly appreciated .helped to the best of my knowledge.
I had the same thing happen to me on my way to Biketoberfest last Saturday on an 03 Pitbull. New battery was fried and the Thunderheart unit that I wired in back in May/June is now back at the manufacturer so they can tell me what they think went wrong prior to selling me a new EHC. They think it's the voltage regulator I think the battery started it.First I'LL say thanks to anyone that has the time to educate me. I need some help on where to start with this problem. I have been reading related posts all day and I can't find anything to help.
I was riding home after chemo yesterday afternoon the bike was running perfect, then ... nothing, it died at about 60mph like I turned the key off, no lights, nothing. I called my wife to bring the trailer. I checked the main fuse and cycled the key every few minutes, still nothing. Today cycled the switch and still nothing. I checked the battery while it was still in the bike and it showed 3.4v. I unhooked everything from it and got 12.4v. Any advice of what I may be dealing with ??? It's a 2005 bulldog.
Did the battery have any physical (visual) damage, before or after it fried your EHCI had the same thing happen to me on my way to Biketoberfest last Saturday on an 03 Pitbull. New battery was fried and the Thunderheart unit that I wired in back in May/June is now back at the manufacturer so they can tell me what they think went wrong prior to selling me a new EHC. They think it's the voltage regulator I think the battery started it.
No exterior damage to battery but it failed the load test and would not take a charge. Maybe an internal short?Did the battery have any physical (visual) damage, before or after it fried your EHC
Humm, I guess I need to dig a little deeper into mine to ... because I was thinking the VR would have to all but explode the battery in order to short it. Can the VR short out your battery without the battery showing visual damage and wipe out the EHC ?No exterior damage to battery but it failed the load test and would not take a charge. Maybe an internal short?
Is there a reason why they don't fuse the +wire from the regulator to battery to limit it to say 14.5v. (or whatever the VR normal upper volt limit is) Or can you have the same problem (over charging) if the VR is sending 14.5v to a fully charged battery even though its using power to run the system at that time ?Well, I ain't genious on electronics, but a battery it self can not burn EHC or anything else on the bike. It just storages up to about 12.9 volts. What does burn everything to shit is faulty VR, feeding say 20 volts... Not entirely correct, but Battery just does all it can to keep voltage lower and boils to shit from over charging. Usual sign of overcharging is burned light bulb (low) since it is always on and can't take high voltage for a long period. And a dead battery. Batteries do short out internally by themselves due to heat and vibration once in the while too. When that happens they do act like yours... 12,something volts, then drops on its knees under load.
Tapio
Most of us have a fuse between the VR & Batt.Is there a reason why they don't fuse the +wire from the regulator to battery to limit it to say 14.5v. (or whatever the VR normal upper volt limit is) Or can you have the same problem (over charging) if the VR is sending 14.5v to a fully charged battery even though its using power to run the system at that time ?


Hey Chubs, thanks for asking. The mind is still strong, but I'm getting my ass kicked on every other front. I have to hold out for two more weeks until sequencing results are back. Thats as far as I can see right now.Vyper; how are you holdin out? Stay strong man, we need ya here to keep us on our toes. Keep on Keeping on .
It actually was an upgrade from the original CBs (Circuit Braker). Curtis ( @KaptinAmerika ) has them

Nice judicial use of the dielectric grease there Franco.
Hoping for the best for ya . stay strong.Hey Chubs, thanks for asking. The mind is still strong, but I'm getting my ass kicked on every other front. I have to hold out for two more weeks until sequencing results are back. Thats as far as I can see right now.
So how does it cook the battery ? I see the 40amp in mine, why a 40 ?
Electrical stuff is not my "forte" John. Someone else will answer this for us.So how does it cook the battery ? I see the 40amp in mine, why a 40 ?


I've got the original circuit breaker and it will be replaced with a fuse or better CB. It was not affected by the electrical overload, did not trip at all.
I've got the original circuit breaker. Did not help.Is there a reason why they don't fuse the +wire from the regulator to battery to limit it to say 14.5v. (or whatever the VR normal upper volt limit is) Or can you have the same problem (over charging) if the VR is sending 14.5v to a fully charged battery even though its using power to run the system at that time ?
You may be right about the VR John. My low beam was fried and turn signal and brake lights quit working with the TH EHC. when I placed a new battery in the bike the EHC had a glow in the middle like a dim bulb. It was shorted inside and turning the key on caused it to burn. Thunderheart thinks it's the VR.Well, I ain't genious on electronics, but a battery it self can not burn EHC or anything else on the bike. It just storages up to about 12.9 volts. What does burn everything to shit is faulty VR, feeding say 20 volts... Not entirely correct, but Battery just does all it can to keep voltage lower and boils to shit from over charging. Usual sign of overcharging is burned light bulb (low) since it is always on and can't take high voltage for a long period. And a dead battery. Batteries do short out internally by themselves due to heat and vibration once in the while too. When that happens they do act like yours... 12,something volts, then drops on its knees under load.
Tapio
Yup, I think BDM made a recall on those CBs... that´s why they went with the 40 amp Fuse.I've got the original circuit breaker. Did not help.

