No Power Anywhere

[cowbelltenors]

Hello all,
Alright I have been reading through a lot of threads and I cannot seem to figure out what is going wrong with my K9. I will give a little background: My negative battery terminal was getting really hot and melted the terminal to the point that I was not getting a good connection. By the time I noticed it I was riding and I lost everything electrically. I tried moving the terminal to get a connection and it worked once to get it started up and then it died again when I was riding but this time no power at all (no lights on the EHC either). I bought a new battery, still not power. I checked all my wires, cleaned them and made sure they were nice and tight, still no power. I tried checking my Voltage Regulator and I only got a resistance reading from the B+ wire to ground (according to the shop manual).
Could this be an EHC failure or is my VR bad? I have been wracking my brain to find a source of the problem but no luck. It says there are fuses in the EHC but I don't think I can reset them. I also do not have a circuit breaker reset button on my bike (I have looked everywhere and it is not the same as the shop manual). If anyone has any ideas before I buy a Wire Plus kit, please let me know.

Thanks

 

[spadesluck]

So the bike starts up but but does not run? Do you have power with the key in turned to run? Sounds to me like an EHC problem if I were a betting man or a bad ground possibly. Electrical problems are always a pain.

 

[PurpleDog]

Make sure you didn't drop a wire down beside the battery and thus not hooked it back up.
Check for voltage at the ignition/key switch.
Check for voltage at the EHC pwr in pin which I've posted the other day (search for posts by me).
Check for tight crimps at all battery/ground wires.
Breaker should be behind the left side cover with a reset button facing downward on the K9 if you have one; if not, there should be a fuse in its place which goes inline with the output of your voltage regulator.
You have to trace your 12v and locate where it stops in the circuit path leading to your EHC is the bottom line. (if I interpreted correctly that you don't have EHC pwr light on when the key is turned on - correct?
If you simply verify that your EHC is receiving 12v pwr and it has good ground circuits where it should (follow the schematic), and its still not working then you will have received your answer I'd say.
Many people are quick to condemn the EHC with no real basis derived from t/s; you can choose to throw money at it or you can choose to troubleshoot the problem. Let us know which way you decide to go.

 

[Nukeranger]

I agree with PurpleDog. Don't just conclude it is the EHC. You have a short or even high resistance somewhere resulting in large amounts of current which melts your connections. Figure out you problem before replacing the EHC and being frustrated because the problem doesn't get fixed. Don't get me wrong, if you spend the time replacing the EHC, you will probably rewire the problem area and never know what caused it. You'll end up thinking it was the EHC.

 

[cowbelltenors]

Check for voltage at the ignition/key switch.

Sorry it took me so long to reply but I have tried checking my ignition switch per the shop manual and I am not getting any resistance across it (I took the switch off the bike and used a pigtail in the ignition and tried to use another pigtail into the two-pin connector but don't know a great place to put it. Sorry I am kind of a beginner with electrical stuff).
Oh and you are correct, there are no lights that light up on the EHC (or anywhere for that matter) when I turn the key.
I also couldn't find your post about the EHC power. I will keep looking.

 

[DRBarnhart]

I tried checking my Voltage Regulator and I only got a resistance reading from the B+ wire to ground (according to the shop manual).

If you used the shop manual there's 4 tests. What value did you get for each? A bad VR could have a lot to do with your hot battery...

Could this be an EHC failure or is my VR bad?

Not exactly sure what you're asking here but bad VR values have nothing to do with the EHC.

It says there are fuses in the EHC but I don't think I can reset them.

They're self-resetting after they cool down.

I also do not have a circuit breaker reset button on my bike (I have looked everywhere and it is not the same as the shop manual).

You can still test the circuit breaker with your multimeter.

If anyone has any ideas before I buy a Wire Plus kit, please let me know.

Here's an idea you've already heard... don't waste your money on a WP until you know that the EHC is your problem!!!

Dennis

PS Just noticed this is my 1,000th post! Probably means I talk to much....

 

[cowbelltenors]

Okay, thanks. I did the 4 tests and I did not get a resistance reading out of any of the tests. What I was wondering was if my EHC is bad would it affect the 4 tests I do on the VR? I am guessing it wouldn't but I don't want to have to buy a new VR if the one I have is good. And man do I hear you about having to buy the WP kit. Don't want to have to buy that if I don't have to.
Another question: Would the EHC still light up if my VR is bad? I don't get any lights on that thing.

 

[DRBarnhart]

I did the 4 tests and I did not get a resistance reading out of any of the tests.

You DID get some type of reading whether your resistance is very high or very low. So, are you saying that you got "0" or something very large like "OL"? Keep in mind when you say you got "no resistance" you're saying there's a short as in a very low value.

What I was wondering was if my EHC is bad would it affect the 4 tests I do on the VR?

And you'd be guessing right in this instance, the EHC has nothing to do with the VR.

I am guessing it wouldn't but I don't want to have to buy a new VR if the one I have is good.

Although it would a lot more expensive to buy another EHC or the WP if the real problem is the VR!!!

And man do I hear you about having to buy the WP kit. Don't want to have to buy that if I don't have to.

Don't get me wrong, the WP is a good alternative for replacing the EHC if that is the problem. I don't know about you but I don't have money to spend on things I don't need!

Another question: Would the EHC still light up if my VR is bad? I don't get any lights on that thing.

The only way the VR could cause the EHC not to light up is if there was a internal short in the VR that's drawing down all your power. Try disconnecting the B+ from the circuit breaker then turn on the bike and see what the EHC does... If you don't see any lights, check the key switch.

Dennis

 

[KnotSo]

Cowbelltenors, you may not be seeing all the topics if you have not "opted in"
Check this thread out and see if it is something you want to do:
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/general/13673-opting.html

 

[bdmridgeback]

more than likely your battery terminal came loose, melted the terminal and with all that resistance usually it start cooking things like the ehc. It is pretty common, that when a battery terminal comes loose to the point of a melt down, electronics get damaged.

 

[DRBarnhart]

more than likely your battery terminal came loose, melted the terminal and with all that resistance usually it start cooking things like the ehc.

I can see how it would cook the battery but how would a loose power wire cook the EHC? With a loose connection there wouldn't be enough power to the EHC for it to work right but I'm not understanding how it would damage it?

Still trying to learn all the little quirks of the EHC... :bang:

Dennis

 

[jimizee028]

PS Just noticed this is my 1,000th post! Probably means I talk to much....
__________________
I find that when you DO talk you usually have something worth hearing....quite a difference than one who just likes to hear his ownself talk....!!! keep up the good work

 

[Choppergirl]

I had the same problem with the melted neg. battery terminal and a very hot neg. battery cable. Mine ended up melting my neg. terminal to the point that I had to get a new battery.:bang: I ended up buying a new battery and a new neg.battey cable. I had to put lock tight on the connection to my starter. It was tight (I thought) but not super tight I guess. Once I put the lock tight on I have had no problems and it has been 3 months now. Not sure if this will help but thought I would throw it in ya never know. Good luck :2thumbs:

 

[DRBarnhart]

PS Just noticed this is my 1,000th post! Probably means I talk to much....
__________________
I find that when you DO talk you usually have something worth hearing....quite a difference than one who just likes to hear his ownself talk....!!! keep up the good work

Thanks Jimi!
I try to do what I can... :lol:

Dennis

 

[DRBarnhart]

I had the same problem with the melted neg. battery terminal and a very hot neg. battery cable. Mine ended up melting my neg. terminal to the point that I had to get a new battery.:bang: I ended up buying a new battery and a new neg.battey cable. I had to put lock tight on the connection to my starter. It was tight (I thought) but not super tight I guess. Once I put the lock tight on I have had no problems and it has been 3 months now. Not sure if this will help but thought I would throw it in ya never know. Good luck :2thumbs:

Not to change the subject here... but I wouldn't use regular Locktite (or any other locking "substance") on the battery connections. The best electrical connection is metal on metal with nothing in between. So, unless you use the two part adhesive Locktite (which IS conductive) it'll add resistance which you don't want or need! If you're having a problem with battery connectors coming loose I'd use some sort of lock washer on it...
:zz2cents:

Dennis

PS I Don't know if that type of Locktite would work for the battery connections or not... may just have to get some and see!

 

[2004BC]

Seems to me your all over the place in your trouble shooting and your over riding observation is "no electrical power" anywhere. Also sounds like you have a manual therefore an electrical schematic.

Start at the battery and work your way up stream point by point with your DMM to make sure you have 12 vdc at every connection/component. Then turn on your ignition switch and proceed up each circuit point by point. Continue until you find problem with electrical power distribution first. If all good then, with ignition on, press run button. Now check voltage point by point in all of the next upstream circuits. You get the picture now.

Do all this before you actually hit the starter button.

Keep your negative lead on chassis ground and move around with your positive lead testing circuits to verify negative battery grounding.

Try all this first before you put a load (amp draw) on the system. Good luck!

 

[DRBarnhart]

Seems to me your all over the place in your trouble shooting and your over riding observation is "no electrical power" anywhere. Also sounds like you have a manual therefore an electrical schematic.

Start at the battery and work your way up stream point by point with your DMM to make sure you have 12 vdc at every connection/component. Then turn on your ignition switch and proceed up each circuit point by point. Continue until you find problem with electrical power distribution first. If all good then, with ignition on, press run button. Now check voltage point by point in all of the next upstream circuits. You get the picture now.

Do all this before you actually hit the starter button.

Keep your negative lead on chassis ground and move around with your positive lead testing circuits to verify negative battery grounding.

Try all this first before you put a load (amp draw) on the system. Good luck!

:iagree:I was just trying to get his possible VR issue out of the way so he can move on to the "no power" issue...

Dennis

 

[2004BC]

:iagree:I was just trying to get his possible VR issue out of the way so he can move on to the "no power" issue...

Dennis

:iagree: with your :iagree:. All perfect advice you guys have given the OP assuming he has some basic skills in diagnostics which is a reasonable assumption. I just had the advantage of hindsight reading all of the posts for the first time last night and getting the feeling that the OP doesn't have too much experience in this field, therefore the "take a deep breath and start from start" advice. It's intimidating as hell if you have an electrical problem on these bikes and you don't have some solid dc electronic design and troubleshooting experience under your belt. Just in case I want to make clear ZERO disrespect was intended and I personally appreciate reading your very very informative and insightful posts. Thank you and good luck to the OP finding and permanently resolving his isssues so he can get back on the road where we all should be!!!!

 

[BigDogBro1]

Disconnect the VR and see what happens in the normal operation.

It's a process of elimination and a understanding of the systems.

 

[cowbelltenors]

Thanks everyone! I will let you know how it goes. And it is very true that I have little experience in this and little time to work on it so I will just slow down and go piece by piece. I was getting a little too anxious to get my Dog back on the road.