No front brakes

[Mastiff Rider64]

Ok guys, something weird is going on. I rode my bike (Bagger) yesterday to work and noticed that I had to pull the front brake lever about half way before I felt the resistance of the caliper pressing on the rotor. So of course I pump the brake lever and it gets a little better maybe have to pull on lever 1/4 before feeling it grab the brakes. Thought might be low on fluid? Well today I got on bike and as I was pulling out the garage, I pull on the brake lever and the lever bottoms out with no back pressure. So I pump and pump and even with all that pumping I barely have any front brakes with lever bottomed out. Master cylinder or caliper or low fluid? I have found no evidence of any brake fluid leaking anywhere in my garage and its been 2 weeks since the last time I took bagger out, been riding Mastiff to get miles put on it after all the work I did to it. Or buy a rebuild kit for both and some DOT 5 brake fluid and flush the system, also I'm pretty sure I'll need one of those brake bleeding kit things, anyone know where to get one of those and what they are actually called?

Thanks

 

[mleach72]

Ok guys, something weird is going on. I rode my bike (Bagger) yesterday to work and noticed that I had to pull the front brake lever about half way before I felt the resistance of the caliper pressing on the rotor. So of course I pump the brake lever and it gets a little better maybe have to pull on lever 1/4 before feeling it grab the brakes. Thought might be low on fluid? Well today I got on bike and as I was pulling out the garage, I pull on the brake lever and the lever bottoms out with no back pressure. So I pump and pump and even with all that pumping I barely have any front brakes with lever bottomed out. Master cylinder or caliper or low fluid? I have found no evidence of any brake fluid leaking anywhere in my garage and its been 2 weeks since the last time I took bagger out, been riding Mastiff to get miles put on it after all the work I did to it. Or buy a rebuild kit for both and some DOT 5 brake fluid and flush the system, also I'm pretty sure I'll need one of those brake bleeding kit things, anyone know where to get one of those and what they are actually called?

Thanks

Check your master cylinder. If it is empty, you probably need to rebuild your caliper. Leaking seals may not cause a spot on the floor, because it only leaks when you apply the brake while riding. This usually runs down to the disc and gets burned off by the pads. The reverse bleeder kit is a good thing to have and can be found almost anywhere, ebay, etc.

 

[1 B.M.F.]

1st I would pull cover off reservoir and check fluid. If low add and push rubber seal(cup)back up to where it’s flat. I have never used a brake bleeding kit. Just get your friend or wife to pump the lever and then when it’s gets a little tight hold it and you can unscrew the bleeder. Until hand lever releases all the way to the grip then quickly tighten it back up. Do that until it’s gets tight.
2nd give the pads a quick glance and see how much pad you have. You may need new pads.
3rd if all is good with fluid and pads I would start with a caliper rebuild kit. good luck

 

[mleach72]

Ok guys, something weird is going on. I rode my bike (Bagger) yesterday to work and noticed that I had to pull the front brake lever about half way before I felt the resistance of the caliper pressing on the rotor. So of course I pump the brake lever and it gets a little better maybe have to pull on lever 1/4 before feeling it grab the brakes. Thought might be low on fluid? Well today I got on bike and as I was pulling out the garage, I pull on the brake lever and the lever bottoms out with no back pressure. So I pump and pump and even with all that pumping I barely have any front brakes with lever bottomed out. Master cylinder or caliper or low fluid? I have found no evidence of any brake fluid leaking anywhere in my garage and its been 2 weeks since the last time I took bagger out, been riding Mastiff to get miles put on it after all the work I did to it. Or buy a rebuild kit for both and some DOT 5 brake fluid and flush the system, also I'm pretty sure I'll need one of those brake bleeding kit things, anyone know where to get one of those and what they are actually called?

Thanks

If your reservoir is still full, the seals in your master cylinder are shot, and needs rebuilt. Both rebuild kits are available from Eric and Curtis.

 

[SKOGDOG]

If you have a chrome reservoir, it may seep. I had that problem with a K9. Across time I would have to replace some brake fluid. Nothing wrong with the braking system, just that damn chrome not sealing up tight enough.

 

[Sven]

What mleach72 said. Takes zero special tools for bleeding. Maybe a circlip tool to change out the kit, but a titty tool is for suckers... yes, pun intended.

1. Rebuild the master.
2. Place thumb over the banjo bolt hole.
3. Pump the lever like you're going to fill the bucket with water from the well's handle and don't stop till it gets all over the paint.
4. When the oil comes out of the banjo hole and you can't keep your finger on it anymore, it's primed.
5. You can take your time losing oil from the master, but be ready to install the banjo bolt and hardly snug it down.
6. Again, you are going to pump a lot, not the open/close shit. Pump till it peppers the paint, you cleared out the bubbles.
7. When that happens, close the banjo bolt down on the close... before you hit the grip.
8. Then, hardly tap the lever so you watch the bubbles come up out of the little hole. Do this if no bleed at the lines.
9. Are you going to bleed the whole system? Then close the banjo on the first bleed, or first pull to grip.
10. Open the caliper nipple and let it flow out in a water bottle. Just keep pumping and adding oil at the rez.
11. When the oil changes color, the new oil shows the nipple is ready to be closed. Same deal with the banjo is the nipple. In other words, you close before the lever hits the grip. There is no open and close shit. It's full on one move open and one move closed. Any more moves you are doing it wrong.
12. Race trick is to zip-tie the lever to the grip. Leave it overnight. You should be able to squeeze the lever more to pop the zip off is one option. The master should be set horizontally for the zip bleed.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

What mleach72 said. Takes zero special tools for bleeding. Maybe a circlip tool to change out the kit, but a titty tool is for suckers... yes, pun intended.

1. Rebuild the master.
2. Place thumb over the banjo bolt hole.
3. Pump the lever like you're going to fill the bucket with water from the well's handle and don't stop till it gets all over the paint.
4. When the oil comes out of the banjo hole and you can't keep your finger on it anymore, it's primed.
5. You can take your time losing oil from the master, but be ready to install the banjo bolt and hardly snug it down.
6. Again, you are going to pump a lot, not the open/close shit. Pump till it peppers the paint, you cleared out the bubbles.
7. When that happens, close the banjo bolt down on the close... before you hit the grip.
8. Then, hardly tap the lever so you watch the bubbles come up out of the little hole. Do this if no bleed at the lines.
9. Are you going to bleed the whole system? Then close the banjo on the first bleed, or first pull to grip.
10. Open the caliper nipple and let it flow out in a water bottle. Just keep pumping and adding oil at the rez.
11. When the oil changes color, the new oil shows the nipple is ready to be closed. Same deal with the banjo is the nipple. In other words, you close before the lever hits the grip. There is no open and close shit. It's full on one move open and one move closed. Any more moves you are doing it wrong.
12. Race trick is to zip-tie the lever to the grip. Leave it overnight. You should be able to squeeze the lever more to pop the zip off is one option. The master should be set horizontally for the zip bleed.

Got it I think, but damn I really need what ever you're on. lol

 

[LHS]

Whatever you do don’t get that brake fluid on your paint you’ll regret that.

I believe what Sven is talking about when he says titty tool Is a brake bleeding tool used to bleed the brake system by yourself without help. I have used one successfully to do thousands of break rebuilds and or replacement parts i.e. master cylinders / calipers / brake lines etc. etc.

I did it the old-school way for years pump up the break hold the pedal down or the lever on a bike then open up the bleeder until the brake handle or brake pedal bottoms out hold it there and tighten up the bleeder and repeat the process until you get all the air out. Like most people will tell you though it usually takes two people to do it this way on a motorcycle and it always takes two people on a car/truck. It is very effective to do it this way but you usually wind up with brake fluid on everything which is no big deal as long as you don’t get it on your paint.

mleach72 & 1B.M.F. & SKOGDOG have given you sound and ( UNDERSTANDABLE ) advice.

If I hadn’t worked at a dealership for 20 years ( retired from that now ) as a second full-time job I would probably never have bought the mighty vac brake bleeding kit and I probably would still be doing it the old-school way but it was indispensable and extremely efficient as I did tons of brake System repairs.

Here is a pic of what I have used for years now which leaves no mess anywhere and it doesn’t take two people to bleed a brake system.

Keep in mind old school works fine just a little messy and usually takes two people.

Also I can’t say it enough don’t get that Brake fluid on your paint.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Whatever you do don’t get that brake fluid on your paint you’ll regret that

I know. I will check the level then drain it at the caliper. Rebuild the master cylinder on handbars which im guessing i have to remove to do so. Replace the control boards while I'm at it. Just hope this fixes the problem. If no fluid at lever I'll rebuild caliper too. Then bleed the brakes and test before riding to far.

 

[Sven]

Of course I was goofing on the hinting of the paint job. Here at Ruderalis Red Hair Race Shop, we are looking for a pit crew for an endurance race. Leave your titty tool home, the race is only 2 hours long, you crash you lose [time] do not apply. Here is a full length master and hose prime. That one time closed I had a pedal. LHS could probably verify it on the first close. There was no change the second time or at the master's banjo. That was more to show you how to finalize the master/caliper... if you still have a soft pedal. But it's a one time open/close... if you hold it in long enough.

 

[awg]

If your reservoir is still full, the seals in your master cylinder are shot, and needs rebuilt. Both rebuild kits are available from Eric and Curtis.

I agree. Your not building up pressure. That is the job of the master cylinder.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

If you want the Bleed at the nipple routine and want one person operation the tool you were referring to is

Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit

Amazing deals on this Brake Bleeder And Vacuum Pump Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Very useful doing the rear brake

 

[mleach72]

Whatever you do don’t get that brake fluid on your paint you’ll regret that.

I've been told that one of reasons that they use DOT 5 in motorcycles is that it won't eat paint. This would be understandable considering if your master cylinder is leaking, it would leak on the tank. I don't know if this is true or not. I've never tried to find out.

 

[knothead]

I've been told that one of reasons that they use DOT 5 in motorcycles is that it won't eat paint. This would be understandable considering if your master cylinder is leaking, it would leak on the tank. I don't know if this is true or not. I've never tried to find out.

Dot 5 wont hurt the paint....now with that said i would leave it on there all day...but ive gotten on mine and no worries....

Also where your fluild returns back to the reservoir in the master cylinder it will help the air out of your system...most of the time thats all i do is leave the cap off the master cylinder and barely squeeze the lever an air bubbles come up and out....wait 20 seconds and do it again...dont squeeze fast or you will squirt flood everywhere

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Thanks guys. Ordering rebuild kit tonight. And one man bleed system.