Newbie Front End Question

Energy One
M

Malcdude

Member
I'd like to know a lot more about the internal construction and build of my 2015/16 10" over front forks ..... I'm guessing that the same model has been used long before my scoot was built ....... so please could someone give me the make and model of my front end in the attached picture ? A link to a web page with exploded diagrams or maintenance proceedures would be even better ! Would they be a Showa fork maybe ?BIG DOG 2.jpg

Thanks in advance dudes.
 
W

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
most important up front is the fact that the factory recommended the forks be rebuilt every 10k. scratch that number out and replace it with 8.5k! the teflon on the bushings is right at worn out and the bronze is starting to rub the inside of the tubes at that point. don't want that to happen!
 
M

Malcdude

Member
Hey Woodbutcher ..... thanks for the info. My bike has very few miles on it. It probably done well under 500 miles. If I sit on the bike and rock it it fore and back with the brake on, I can see and feel much too much movement between the tubes and the lower fork leg. I can even see it in the very slight smear of oil/dust on the tube. It's not an equal smear as it should be, it has obvious signs of slack fit.

Thanks Malc.
 
Dragonslave

Dragonslave

Active Member
If you have a 2015 / 2016 BDM I would have the factory pay for the rebuild. For a newer bike you should not see any fork oil smear on the tubes. Post a picture of what you are seeing on the tubes and we can tell you how much is too much. You can also jack up the front end to see if you have any small scratches on the tubes causing slight oil leakage. If you are seeing this now, it will only get worse over time. You can always drain the forks and put higher weight oil in them to stiffen them up too.
 
M

Malcdude

Member
Hi Dragonslave ...... mine is a pre-production model which was to be ( and may still be ) sold in Europe. It was sold as having been in a showroom for a good while and having had a few shakedown runs out by the dealers. It wasn't a brand new bike and I have to say that I'm not mad on the thought of giving it back to the dealer ..... having gradually found a number of small engineering items that would not be acceptable in my garage. Because I am VERY pleased with the machine overall, and it's one of one here in England ..... it's a keeper. I will probably swallow the costs and get a rebuild kit and tool in ....... do it myself ....... properly. The smear is a VERY slight mark, but I know slack bushes when I feel them. The trouble is for me that a $125 in parts will probably DOUBLE by the time it's delivered to me here, and then be subject to the weak Sterling / Dollar price.

Hey ho ..... thanks for your comments.
 
Dragonslave

Dragonslave

Active Member
Here is the link to the full rebuild kit. Its not that expensive but if you are worried about shipping charges the oil will weigh the most so you can purchase the second link from Curtis and just buy your own oil where you live. Save you a lot of $$$ that way in shipping. If you are unsure about how to change them I think @Marky-Marc posted a video on how to do this. Pretty simple.

http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_68_173_73&products_id=1401

http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_68_173_73&products_id=469
 
M

Malcdude

Member
Hey Dragonslave ....... many thanks. Great idea with the oil not in the package.

Many, many thanks to you .... and Marky-Mark of course.

Cheers Malc.
 
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woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
it may be something as simple as previously stated. some prefer softer feel in the front so 20wt is good for them, some prefer a more solid feel and 30wt is good for them. mine started with 30 and i tried 20 when i rebuilt my forks, i will definitely be going back to 30wt. BUT, even with 17k on mine, there is vertually no residue on my forks, and i live in an area where there is lots of sand and salt, so it could be your seals. and if you do the seals, do it all.
 
Dragonslave

Dragonslave

Active Member
woodbutcher said:
it may be something as simple as previously stated. some prefer softer feel in the front so 20wt is good for them, some prefer a more solid feel and 30wt is good for them. mine started with 30 and i tried 20 when i rebuilt my forks, i will definitely be going back to 30wt. BUT, even with 17k on mine, there is vertually no residue on my forks, and i live in an area where there is lots of sand and salt, so it could be your seals. and if you do the seals, do it all.
Click to expand...
Had 20w in mine before. Went with 30w this last time and I like it better too.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Dragonslave said:
Had 20w in mine before. Went with 30w this last time and I like it better too.
Click to expand...
Same here tried 20wt based on some recommendations on this forum and hated it. Drained it after a few thousand and stuck 30wt back in much better. Sloppy ride with 20wt in my opinion

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
Raywood

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Pull top top caps off the lower legs and clean them out, this will help with the oil film. I have the same bike. Enjoy
 
M

Malcdude

Member
Hi Ray ..... the very small amount of smear and how it looked to me, meant I had feeling that it maybe some watery dirty sh*t held in the top covers. Can I ask you please what it the best way to remove the covers ? ... I guess they are meant to be a push fit into the lowers against a rubber 'O' ring or seal ?

Cheers fellow Regulator #:O)
 
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