new Twin-tec ignition module, still no spark

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Hey all. As most of you know, Im a BIG supporter of less is more regarding these bikes. Over ten years ago I had my ehc removed and completely rewired by a competition builder. Ive since been riding around with one main fuse (40 amp) and one ignition fuse (15 amp). I havent had any issues for years and am very happy. Bike started cutting out/in very quickly as if the battery cable was loose and bouncing around. It was determined that the Twin Tec 1005 module finally passed on. Had the same guys r&r whatever was needed to get me rolling. I rode the bike into the trailer without issue. Went for a ride 8 hours later and the small fuse popped. I r&r the fuse and now I have no spark again. The Status light on the ignition does light when cranking over. Any recommendations on what to check?
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Thank you for your input. You've helped me before and have been correct. But I asked the installer (been my only mech since 2008) and he doesn't see a connection between the charging system and my problem.
Can you elaborate please?
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
My apology I missed read what you said. So if your getting the light to come on the the ignition module and its flashing when it spins over then the cam sensor is good...now to check from the ignition module to the coil and the coil to the plugs..
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
My apology I missed read what you said. So if your getting the light to come on the the ignition module and its flashing when it spins over then the cam sensor is good...now to check from the ignition module to the coil and the coil to the plugs..
Thanks to YouTube I can another certificate to my list of achievements. :oldlaugh:
Following your recommendation and expanding on it, I believe my stator had sent its last charge. I found a few videos, some on BDM's, on how to use a mm to check the stator and regulator. Regulator checks out ok but I did find the the connector on the wire the battery was holding on by a thread. Which makes me wonder if thats what popped the fuse. IDK. Ill get the right socket and have a look at the stator tomorrow. FYI - r&r'ed the coil, didnt help at all. I did check the OEM (20 years, 91,000ish miles) coil and everything was fine.

Question: would the disconnect of the regulator to battery cause there to be no spark at the plugs or the fuse to pop?
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Thanks to YouTube I can another certificate to my list of achievements. :oldlaugh:
Following your recommendation and expanding on it, I believe my stator had sent its last charge. I found a few videos, some on BDM's, on how to use a mm to check the stator and regulator. Regulator checks out ok but I did find the the connector on the wire the battery was holding on by a thread. Which makes me wonder if thats what popped the fuse. IDK. Ill get the right socket and have a look at the stator tomorrow. FYI - r&r'ed the coil, didnt help at all. I did check the OEM (20 years, 91,000ish miles) coil and everything was fine.

Question: would the disconnect of the regulator to battery cause there to be no spark at the plugs or the fuse to pop?
No the voltage regulator not being hooked to the battery want have anything to do with the spark..regulator just maintains the battery voltage..

Now a loose connection that you found will cause the cable to get hot and pop a fuse. But if the stator is grounded out in the primary cover it will burn some stuff up or cause electrical issue....but usually you will see your speedo and tach act funny because the both of them run a small amount of voltage and will let you know there is a possible short or a voltage issue within the system...
 
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