scubaman15
Well-Known Member
subscribed!!!
New Bike Power Module underway
- Thread starter KaptinAmerika
- Start date
KaptinAmerika
Guru
What I want everyone to remember is that WSW's module will be accessible for repairs. Not locked down like all the others tend to be.
So if you can run everything through a centralized module and keep it compact why not????
Again my goal is to make it multi-tiered so those who choose to go basic can.
Technology has made leaps and bounds in the last couple of years and the things you can do now are vastly expanded. Me personally I would love to have the ability to throw all my travel goodies on for long rides and strip them all back off with ease when I'm riding around town.
So if you can run everything through a centralized module and keep it compact why not????
Again my goal is to make it multi-tiered so those who choose to go basic can.
Technology has made leaps and bounds in the last couple of years and the things you can do now are vastly expanded. Me personally I would love to have the ability to throw all my travel goodies on for long rides and strip them all back off with ease when I'm riding around town.
toomanybikes
not enough time 4 riding
Tier 2 with plug and play installation
Tattooedirish1
The Wicked Irishman
Sounds like you have your answer Curtis!. Offer all the options and the end user decides what functions they want to utilize
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Keep updating us Curtis. This is going to be a very good thing! :2thumbs:
bearman
Active Member
What all you plug and play advocates need to realize that probably half of all electrical problems that Big Dogs have is with the big azz 50 pin connectors that the later models have two of. These 50 pin connectors are made for the inside of computers sitting on a desk somewhere, not on a heavily vibrating vehicle that hits pot holes occasionally. And don’t forget that those big connectors cost money. What most people want is something cheap (if not free) so remember the more options, the more it’s gonna cost. And the more complicated it is, the more it will break (and the more like the EHC that we already have)
I think that any new module should have a connector or set of contacts that would allow you to trouble shoot the individual relays while everything is still hooked up. For example, my ’94 chevy pickup has a open connector under the dash (don’t remember exactly, but about 20 pins), the trouble shooting directions say something like “if your electric fuel pump is not working and you suspect your fuel pump relay to be bad, short pin 1 to pin 17, if your fuel pump comes on then your fuel pump relay is bad, if it doesn’t come on then you have a bad fuel pump”.
I know this would cost more because of the added development costs, but I think this type of easy owner troubleshooting would be worth the extra money.
Regardless of anything else, we need to be able to trouble shoot any new controller with a multimeter.
And the new controller should only have ONE LED, make it one of those that changes color according to the battery voltage (I think you know where to get one)
>15.25 Flashing Green (over-voltage)
>12.9-15.24 Green (charging)
>12.6-12.8 Amber
>12.1-12.5 Steady Red
<12.00 Flashing Red
Hell what I really want, for ultimate "get me home" reliability, is a three position key switch (off, run, start), that fits in our Big Dog coil cover, that will handle enough current to run the solenoid in the start position, and that will handle enough current to run the ignition and lights in the run position (Ok, we might need one relay to operate the brake lights with our existing hand controls). If you can just get us one of those so we can ride when we want, we can find our own light switch and place to mount it (to turn off the headlight when our battery is low and we need extra amps to crank).
The rest of the foo foo stuff can be put in a new module, but that key switch would be MONEY.
I think that any new module should have a connector or set of contacts that would allow you to trouble shoot the individual relays while everything is still hooked up. For example, my ’94 chevy pickup has a open connector under the dash (don’t remember exactly, but about 20 pins), the trouble shooting directions say something like “if your electric fuel pump is not working and you suspect your fuel pump relay to be bad, short pin 1 to pin 17, if your fuel pump comes on then your fuel pump relay is bad, if it doesn’t come on then you have a bad fuel pump”.
I know this would cost more because of the added development costs, but I think this type of easy owner troubleshooting would be worth the extra money.
Regardless of anything else, we need to be able to trouble shoot any new controller with a multimeter.
And the new controller should only have ONE LED, make it one of those that changes color according to the battery voltage (I think you know where to get one)
>15.25 Flashing Green (over-voltage)
>12.9-15.24 Green (charging)
>12.6-12.8 Amber
>12.1-12.5 Steady Red
<12.00 Flashing Red
Hell what I really want, for ultimate "get me home" reliability, is a three position key switch (off, run, start), that fits in our Big Dog coil cover, that will handle enough current to run the solenoid in the start position, and that will handle enough current to run the ignition and lights in the run position (Ok, we might need one relay to operate the brake lights with our existing hand controls). If you can just get us one of those so we can ride when we want, we can find our own light switch and place to mount it (to turn off the headlight when our battery is low and we need extra amps to crank).
The rest of the foo foo stuff can be put in a new module, but that key switch would be MONEY.
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
K.I.S.S
All the bells and whistles aren't going to get you home. Start with the basic operational functions for carb and EFI, get it reliable and then add the extra crap later.
Personally I don't care for it nor do I want to pay for the extra crap.
All the bells and whistles aren't going to get you home. Start with the basic operational functions for carb and EFI, get it reliable and then add the extra crap later.
Personally I don't care for it nor do I want to pay for the extra crap.
Glenn
Member
Agreed - Keep it Simple and go from there - remember "a platypus was really a duck designed by a committee"
Thors
Active Member
I like bearmans line of thinking and if you happened upon any of my posts regarding the WP, the M-unit and my current hybrid bastardized mess you will know I've has some fun issues. Bikes are stupid simple and my first priority was to keep the headlight, tail lights and coil/fuel system power onto the most bulletproof setup possible. For me that currently means my 3 position harley-like key handles the main power distrib. I lose the ability to have any troubleshooting dummy lights on those circuits but with a little thinking that could be dealt with. And my solid state stuff can fry itself into oblivion and with a push start I still get home.
From there simple solid state latching circuits can do the rest. I have a few circuit designs to handle the split break light/blinker stuff but I haven't had time to get back to figuring the best way to do it. My current line of thinking is to do what I mentioned above for the main power, then use individual latch units to handle the momentary buttons. My M-unit was awesome (minus the smoke signals) but when something went wrong I was SOL. If I get a latch for the RUN/OFF and the HI/LOW all that’s left is the blinker stuff. If one fries, I can easily and cheaply fix it. The horn can use a straight relay. Same for start. Etc...
You're likely way ahead of my bungling but I'd be happy to talk about it if you want to brainstorm. Creating a solution that non-techy/non-mechanic peoples can easily install is a bit more of a challenge so it should be a fun project!
Good luck and keep up the great work!
From there simple solid state latching circuits can do the rest. I have a few circuit designs to handle the split break light/blinker stuff but I haven't had time to get back to figuring the best way to do it. My current line of thinking is to do what I mentioned above for the main power, then use individual latch units to handle the momentary buttons. My M-unit was awesome (minus the smoke signals) but when something went wrong I was SOL. If I get a latch for the RUN/OFF and the HI/LOW all that’s left is the blinker stuff. If one fries, I can easily and cheaply fix it. The horn can use a straight relay. Same for start. Etc...
You're likely way ahead of my bungling but I'd be happy to talk about it if you want to brainstorm. Creating a solution that non-techy/non-mechanic peoples can easily install is a bit more of a challenge so it should be a fun project!
Good luck and keep up the great work!