Need High Flow Cylinder Heads

Energy One

K9husker

Member
I am looking for high performance cylinder heads for my BD 117. Who has the best flowing heads out there and what piston combination should be ran with these? I want to stay around 10:1 compression to maintain drivability. After all, it's about flow!
Race a head quarters 113 and he ran dead even with the K9. :(
Thanks for the help
Randy
 

HDLARRY

Active Member
You'll get all kinds of advice here so I'll throw in my 2 cents.

I've read a lot of good things over the years about both T-man Performance and Hillside Cycles that were mentioned previously.

Sul's advice is right on in my book.

Personally I don't see any reason to change S&S heads unless your going for top end race type performance and need bigger ports/valves to do it. Of coarse a lot of other things have to change in order to utilize the bigger ports and valves. These things can be a real money pit when you start down that road.

Might be better to just do a minor port job on the existing heads and possibly an ignition upgrade. This would be in addition to raising the compression as Sul mentioned. If you stay with the 600 cam it is designed to work best at 9.5 to 10.5 CR.
 
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K9husker

Member
How much should a person shave off the heads? And what cam is the best for the configuration? What about pushrods and piston to valve clearance and getting the intake to fit?
 

HDLARRY

Active Member
How much should a person shave off the heads? And what cam is the best for the configuration? What about pushrods and piston to valve clearance and getting the intake to fit?
When shaving the heads you are trying to increase the compression so that it falls into a range that your cam does its best magic. Most cam manufactures tell you what range that is. A mismatched exhaust can screew this up also.

The cam you have is a very good all around cam for the street. Sure you can get a little more performance out of other cams but the power range will normally move up the RPM band which is fine if that's where you ride at. Personally I spend 99% of my time in the 2-3K range.

You need to think long and hard about how your going to ride this thing then you might talk to a few good builders if you feel the need for serious speed. Follow there recipie to the letter and things will be good.
 

Black Dawg

Active Member
Milling your jugs to obtain a zero deck will give you about 10.5:1. That's about the limit for pump gas. A zero deck will maximize efficiency and will allow a slightly higher compression ratio before detonation (compared to milling the heads to achieve the same compression). These bikes come from the factory with a horrible negative deck height.

If you want more compression than that you will have to mill the heads but I don't recommend this unless you're going all out (race only). The difference in power between 10.5 and 11.5 is minimal, but would require race fuel to be safe, or a retarded timing table which would kill power.

Looking at your avatar it appears you have the V&H 2-1 pipes. My concern here is that your primary pipe size is (I believe) 1.75". This pipe was designed for the smaller HD motors, not big inch S&S. You need a 2" primary exhaust to maximize power. See the link in my sig to see the 2-1 pipes I'm using from RBRacing. They also make what they call a "124 Challenge" pipe utilizing a merge collector. This is an all out race pipe without a muffler. Some use it on the street though with good results. But both of these pipes make very good power compared to most others. And I'm talking good average power, not just a good peak number. Average power is more important than max peak for best acceleration. The reason I bring up exhaust is that if you're going to spend big bucks on heads you don't want that power choking in the exhaust.

If it were me I'd maximize the efficiency of your existing combo before I went and spent major money on new heads.
 

Black Dawg

Active Member
Sul, here's an article from HR mag that uses the term "negative deck" to refer to the piston "in the hole" and a "positive deck" is "outside the hole."

Stroke Any Engine - How To - Hot Rod Magazine

Depending on cam specs, of course, higher compression might be needed beyond ~10.5:1 to offset some of the cylinder pressure bled off in long duration cams. And, like you are doing, fine tuning your combo can make all the difference.
 

HDLARRY

Active Member
Black Dawg - Excellent advice and well thought out.

Think I calculated about 10.4 CR after obtaining a zero deck height on my motor. That was using .040 head gaskets. At the time I couldn't find .030 Cometic head gaskets which would have been 10.6 CCR.

I found a nice Excel spreedsheet on another site and then added a couple EVO cams to it. It's good for calculating the CR and expected cranking pressure without compression releases. If I could figure out how to post it I would.
 

lee

Well-Known Member
using .048" for head gasket, 91cc for combustion chamber volume and zero for deck height and piston top volume (don't know if this is right) I get 10.43
 

Black Dawg

Active Member
Thanks guys. When mathematically calculating compression you DO enter a negative value for deck height if the piston is sticking up out of the cylinder even though that would be referred to as a "positive" deck. That's probably what Sul was referring too.
 
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