There are alot of misconceptions about nitrous.
On the timing, you want to retard it a little if anything..
As far as it " burning way more fuel ", if you go with a wet kit that has a fuel jet and N2o jet in the fogger, it adds the required amount of fuel along with the nitrous to keep the mixture from leaning out when its applied.A "dry" kit as alot of folks call them will be only an N2o manifold that sprays nitrous into your intake manifold.Alot of those kits will run a line from the nitrous manifold to the carb's vent to atmosphere.Since the carb no longer has that vent, you have to move way up on your main jet to acheive a proper a/f mixture.When you apply the nitrous the manifold sends pressure created by the pressure from the bottle to pressurize the float bowl forcing extra fuel into the engine to provide the mixture from leaning out.Make any sense:lol: .
With the fairly low compression on these motors (stock), thats another +..
If you do decide on using nitrous once you get a kit installed before you spray it I'd suggest using an LM1 wideband, or dyno time to get the mixture perfect.Once you have it properly tuned its not really "bad" for anything if used wisely.Common failures are usually headgaskets, holes burnt in pistons,ect..But that is from improper or no tuning usually.Never know till you try it:up:
Sorry for the long post and also I've never run nitrous on an S&S and have no idea what it will tolerate, but have run it on alot of kawasaki v-twin atv's.