Marky-Marc
Well-Known Member
MY Cutch Basket Replacement Story…..not as good as others, thought I’d share….
You are going to need:
THE DIY’s on this site
A MANUAL (don't skim the instructions, READ THEM-if it says LOCTITE, PUT LOCTITE)
FOLLOW the TORQUE SPECS
LOGIC
TORQUE WRENCH(ES)
The CORRECT Tools and lots of patience, and maybe alcohol.....
Hope this adds or helps with a few tips and tricks to others….
I screw up my own BIG DOG and take responsibility for that, but I take NO responsibility for you screwing up YOUR bike based on what I did. Use these notes AND A MANUAL to perform these repairs.
Most of the credit goes to Andrew Barnes and Jason (boomer4444), or I’d probably have blown the bike up…lol…I did, however, DRIVE My bike HOME with the clutch basket destroyed as you see it.
Order new primary inspection cover gaskets as well as outer primary cover gasket, plus a new motor mount nut and a new clutch hub nut, if you order the complete BAKER upgrade, I'd suggest getting 6 NEW hardened bolts to attach it to the clutch sprocket.....also, get new EXHAUST GASKETS as well....When I had it reassembled, I had popping at idle and decel...took the F%^^ng exhaust BACK off, put new gaskets in and NO POPPING.....
I heard my chain rattle in my primary and noise on my right side, gears slipping and made it home. Photos will show what I ended up with once pulling the primary….Clutch Basket Destroyed…..but first, I tried to adjust my clutch and pulled my ball and ramp to no avail. Don’t think it’s the clutch basket immediately, check your clutch hub nut, your ball and ramp or your chain tensioner, it might be a simpler fix than my FUBAR.
First, drain your primary as explained in manual and disassemble....follow manual for disassembly of clutch basket etc...or follow the DIY's on our site...
I had never had the clutch update done, this is what it looks like BLOWN UP!
After draining the primary and taking the cover off, First thing I did was take the 4 bolts out that hold the clutch basket spring and bearing in (check bearing to make sure it has about 1/16” play and rotates freely as well)…and I used a magnet to pull my clutch plates out one by one with spacers and keep them in order and then I really saw the basket Fucked and broken. keep your clutch plates in order and the spacers, from the back it is spacer, then clutch plate, then spacer etc….check your plates for damage or wear…..mine didn’t have a scratch on them…..
At that point, you can have one of your bigger neighbors come over and sit on the bike with the rear and front brake pulled while you loosen the clutch hub nut (lefty tighty, righty loosey), I’m a buck 65…..OR, use my PLUMBING chain wrench method…there are a lot of them out there, but a simple, cheap one is at harbour Freight….it’s called a 20” chain wrench and it’s $6.99. You can wrap it around, hold the gears with a breaker bar and the chain wrench locked around the sprocket, while you use an IMPACT gun to loosen the clutch hub nut. I used my dewalt cordless 300 foot/lb impact and it worked without a flaw. Using the chain wrench, my bike NEVER moved and I didn’t need any help, just make sure you put it on the right way so your sprockets don’t slip.
At that point I had NOT pulled my motor nut yet, since my basket was destroyed and pulled the whole clutch assembly out, chain included. Then, I used my Chain Wrench again to lock the motor gears down and loosen the motor nut with my impact (righty tighty, lefty loosey). I did this, because, you will NOT be able to put both sprockets back on with the chain without slipping both engine and clutch sprockets back on at the same time. UNLESS you take the chain tensioner out.
I used a 30mm to get my Clutch hub nut loose.
On a side note, my Motor Nut was a 33mm rather than a 1-5/16”, my 33mm fit tighter than my 1-5/16th…
33mm with Engine mount nut in it:
You can see video of 1-5/16” movement here:
ON A SIDE NOTE, I also have used my plumbing chain wrench and a plumbing rubber gasket to get my locked fork tube cabs off (see pics), if you’re having trouble getting them off. Once your forks are out of your triple tree…slide the rubber plumbing adapter over your cap, lock chain wrench over top and twist gently.
When disassembling this, keep a record of where what goes…via pictures or notes…..
Then, insert two bolts into the stater and PULL the stater off. It is magnetized which makes this next process a PITA….because ALL the metal chards from he broken Clutch basket and other shit will be in there….since it’s magnetized, it seems impossible. But after talking to Andrew and Boomer, and using a toothbrush and shop solvent, I got most of it out. Then use BRAKE cleaner to clean your whole primary so it looks new…..CLEAN YOUR DRAIN PLUG AS WELL, it WILL have lots of metal shards on it......
Then, sit back, have a margarita, or a heineken or dinner and a bottle of vino….and wait for parts….I ordered my complete BAKER clutch basket upgrade from Andrew, Curtis has them as well…OR, if you do have a press, you can just order the BANDIT clutch basket and re-press your sprocket/bearings back into the new Bandit basket. The new, upgraded baker basket comes pre-assembled with everything ready to go…since I’m lazy, that’s what I did.
Clean primary waiting for parts
At this point, since you have everything apart, DRAIN your Transmission and take your exhaust off.… WHY? once the basket is out, it will leak most of your tranny fluid back out on your primary SIDE, don’t fill you trans again until the basket is back in and tightened down….or, it will leak out…..check your seal at that point as well to make sure it’s good.
If you haven't done the SHIM upgrade for your clutch, you should do that as well at this point.
The ball and ramp if you take it off….loosen your clutch cable COMPLETELY….the ramp has to be all the way toward the back, offset from the front ramp (outside) before you put it back on. However, do NOT put it back onto the pushrod until your primary and clutch basket and motor sprocket and chain are back together and tightened down to specs. You can at this point also take it apart and clean it nicely (there is another DIY on there for doing that from GAS MAN on replacing your clutch cable, he included how to grease your pushrod as well as the R&R of the pushrod, ball n ramp and cable, you can find it in the link below). On a side note, those 5 screws that hold the ball n ramp together are SOFT metal, don’t impact them or over tighten, you will STRIP them…if you need the size for those 5 screws, they are 10-24, 3/8” length……yup, I stripped my bolts, had to cut a notch in them with a dremel to get them back out........lesson learned.....maybe...
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-clutch-cable.9516/
Here's a pic of the new upgraded Baker Basket I got from Andrew:
THE ABSOLUTE BEST ADVICE I EVER GOT to adjusting my clutch was from Jason (Boomer4444), it has NEVER failed me, as long as you have your primary cover off.
Loosen the nut on the clutch push rod, then slowly turn the push rod, while leaning over your bike and looking at the bearing plate, as soon as it moves a hair (or mm), STOP and tighten your clutch pushrod nut down, then adjust the cable, and overtime I’ve done this, I’ve never had to re-adjust it….no creeping or anything….BOOMER ROCKS!
Completed re-install of new clutch basket with chain:
Reinstall your primary cover per manual, torque primary cover bolts in sequence per manual, fill primary with 32oz of chain case oil. Remember you drained the TRANSMISSION, fill that with 20oz of fluid.
When you are done, let it sit, look for leaks....then ride like a BAT OUT OF HELL, come back and check for leaks again.....
Rode it out of the garage today, no creeping on the clutch, quiet, found neutral, all with one clutch adjustment….no leaks either.....
Here are the torque values for the primary if you are doing this, use RED loctite……
Exhaust Flange Torque: 18 ft/lbs
Engine sprocket Nut Torque: 160 ft/lbs
Clutch Hub nut Torque: 110+ ft/lbs
6 Hardened bolts that attach your clutch gears to the new basket: 22-25 ft/lbs
Clutch Spring (4 bolts): 19 ft/lbs
And Marc is happy today because I'm back on the road....Be safe in Sturgis....see you there...maybe....
You are going to need:
THE DIY’s on this site
A MANUAL (don't skim the instructions, READ THEM-if it says LOCTITE, PUT LOCTITE)
FOLLOW the TORQUE SPECS
LOGIC
TORQUE WRENCH(ES)
The CORRECT Tools and lots of patience, and maybe alcohol.....
Hope this adds or helps with a few tips and tricks to others….
I screw up my own BIG DOG and take responsibility for that, but I take NO responsibility for you screwing up YOUR bike based on what I did. Use these notes AND A MANUAL to perform these repairs.
Most of the credit goes to Andrew Barnes and Jason (boomer4444), or I’d probably have blown the bike up…lol…I did, however, DRIVE My bike HOME with the clutch basket destroyed as you see it.
Order new primary inspection cover gaskets as well as outer primary cover gasket, plus a new motor mount nut and a new clutch hub nut, if you order the complete BAKER upgrade, I'd suggest getting 6 NEW hardened bolts to attach it to the clutch sprocket.....also, get new EXHAUST GASKETS as well....When I had it reassembled, I had popping at idle and decel...took the F%^^ng exhaust BACK off, put new gaskets in and NO POPPING.....
I heard my chain rattle in my primary and noise on my right side, gears slipping and made it home. Photos will show what I ended up with once pulling the primary….Clutch Basket Destroyed…..but first, I tried to adjust my clutch and pulled my ball and ramp to no avail. Don’t think it’s the clutch basket immediately, check your clutch hub nut, your ball and ramp or your chain tensioner, it might be a simpler fix than my FUBAR.
First, drain your primary as explained in manual and disassemble....follow manual for disassembly of clutch basket etc...or follow the DIY's on our site...
I had never had the clutch update done, this is what it looks like BLOWN UP!
After draining the primary and taking the cover off, First thing I did was take the 4 bolts out that hold the clutch basket spring and bearing in (check bearing to make sure it has about 1/16” play and rotates freely as well)…and I used a magnet to pull my clutch plates out one by one with spacers and keep them in order and then I really saw the basket Fucked and broken. keep your clutch plates in order and the spacers, from the back it is spacer, then clutch plate, then spacer etc….check your plates for damage or wear…..mine didn’t have a scratch on them…..
At that point, you can have one of your bigger neighbors come over and sit on the bike with the rear and front brake pulled while you loosen the clutch hub nut (lefty tighty, righty loosey), I’m a buck 65…..OR, use my PLUMBING chain wrench method…there are a lot of them out there, but a simple, cheap one is at harbour Freight….it’s called a 20” chain wrench and it’s $6.99. You can wrap it around, hold the gears with a breaker bar and the chain wrench locked around the sprocket, while you use an IMPACT gun to loosen the clutch hub nut. I used my dewalt cordless 300 foot/lb impact and it worked without a flaw. Using the chain wrench, my bike NEVER moved and I didn’t need any help, just make sure you put it on the right way so your sprockets don’t slip.
At that point I had NOT pulled my motor nut yet, since my basket was destroyed and pulled the whole clutch assembly out, chain included. Then, I used my Chain Wrench again to lock the motor gears down and loosen the motor nut with my impact (righty tighty, lefty loosey). I did this, because, you will NOT be able to put both sprockets back on with the chain without slipping both engine and clutch sprockets back on at the same time. UNLESS you take the chain tensioner out.
I used a 30mm to get my Clutch hub nut loose.
On a side note, my Motor Nut was a 33mm rather than a 1-5/16”, my 33mm fit tighter than my 1-5/16th…
33mm with Engine mount nut in it:
You can see video of 1-5/16” movement here:
ON A SIDE NOTE, I also have used my plumbing chain wrench and a plumbing rubber gasket to get my locked fork tube cabs off (see pics), if you’re having trouble getting them off. Once your forks are out of your triple tree…slide the rubber plumbing adapter over your cap, lock chain wrench over top and twist gently.
When disassembling this, keep a record of where what goes…via pictures or notes…..
Then, insert two bolts into the stater and PULL the stater off. It is magnetized which makes this next process a PITA….because ALL the metal chards from he broken Clutch basket and other shit will be in there….since it’s magnetized, it seems impossible. But after talking to Andrew and Boomer, and using a toothbrush and shop solvent, I got most of it out. Then use BRAKE cleaner to clean your whole primary so it looks new…..CLEAN YOUR DRAIN PLUG AS WELL, it WILL have lots of metal shards on it......
Then, sit back, have a margarita, or a heineken or dinner and a bottle of vino….and wait for parts….I ordered my complete BAKER clutch basket upgrade from Andrew, Curtis has them as well…OR, if you do have a press, you can just order the BANDIT clutch basket and re-press your sprocket/bearings back into the new Bandit basket. The new, upgraded baker basket comes pre-assembled with everything ready to go…since I’m lazy, that’s what I did.
Clean primary waiting for parts
At this point, since you have everything apart, DRAIN your Transmission and take your exhaust off.… WHY? once the basket is out, it will leak most of your tranny fluid back out on your primary SIDE, don’t fill you trans again until the basket is back in and tightened down….or, it will leak out…..check your seal at that point as well to make sure it’s good.
If you haven't done the SHIM upgrade for your clutch, you should do that as well at this point.
The ball and ramp if you take it off….loosen your clutch cable COMPLETELY….the ramp has to be all the way toward the back, offset from the front ramp (outside) before you put it back on. However, do NOT put it back onto the pushrod until your primary and clutch basket and motor sprocket and chain are back together and tightened down to specs. You can at this point also take it apart and clean it nicely (there is another DIY on there for doing that from GAS MAN on replacing your clutch cable, he included how to grease your pushrod as well as the R&R of the pushrod, ball n ramp and cable, you can find it in the link below). On a side note, those 5 screws that hold the ball n ramp together are SOFT metal, don’t impact them or over tighten, you will STRIP them…if you need the size for those 5 screws, they are 10-24, 3/8” length……yup, I stripped my bolts, had to cut a notch in them with a dremel to get them back out........lesson learned.....maybe...
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-clutch-cable.9516/
Here's a pic of the new upgraded Baker Basket I got from Andrew:
THE ABSOLUTE BEST ADVICE I EVER GOT to adjusting my clutch was from Jason (Boomer4444), it has NEVER failed me, as long as you have your primary cover off.
Loosen the nut on the clutch push rod, then slowly turn the push rod, while leaning over your bike and looking at the bearing plate, as soon as it moves a hair (or mm), STOP and tighten your clutch pushrod nut down, then adjust the cable, and overtime I’ve done this, I’ve never had to re-adjust it….no creeping or anything….BOOMER ROCKS!
Completed re-install of new clutch basket with chain:
Reinstall your primary cover per manual, torque primary cover bolts in sequence per manual, fill primary with 32oz of chain case oil. Remember you drained the TRANSMISSION, fill that with 20oz of fluid.
When you are done, let it sit, look for leaks....then ride like a BAT OUT OF HELL, come back and check for leaks again.....
Rode it out of the garage today, no creeping on the clutch, quiet, found neutral, all with one clutch adjustment….no leaks either.....
Here are the torque values for the primary if you are doing this, use RED loctite……
Exhaust Flange Torque: 18 ft/lbs
Engine sprocket Nut Torque: 160 ft/lbs
Clutch Hub nut Torque: 110+ ft/lbs
6 Hardened bolts that attach your clutch gears to the new basket: 22-25 ft/lbs
Clutch Spring (4 bolts): 19 ft/lbs
And Marc is happy today because I'm back on the road....Be safe in Sturgis....see you there...maybe....
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