More starting issues

I posted a while back ago about my starting issue with our 07 K9. It will start rite up directly off the tender, but if you go anywhere or even shut it off in the garage, when you go to start it again, all you get are two clicks. Have ran all the tests, and put a new, new battery in of 310 CCA.

Did it to me again tonite in the garage, so I got out my 6 guage wire and rigged my jump like raywood sent. You're rite, hold on to that wire!! When I arc the two across the starter spins like non other, but that's all that happens. I have the ignition on, lights all working, push the start button and click, click. I think this is the compression releases? If I leave the key on and arc, just spin?

You think my starter is bad? :bang:
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
If the bike starts off the tender and when you shut her off, all you get is click click, I would think that it has to do with you VR. Have you checked the Circuit Breaker to see if it is tripped. If it has a circuit breaker try resetting it. My Bike has a 40 Amp fuse which serves the same purpose. Another possibility here is that your Battery is not being recharged which could be your Stator and Rotor Assembly, this is what charges your battery when the dog is running.

You mentioned that the starter spins, does it spin by itself without turning the motor over or does it turn the motor over but won't start. It has nothing to do with compression release unless they are stuck open, which you can push shut with your finger. It sound to me like your battery is not being recharged after it starts so take a look at the VR, the Circuit breaker and you stator Assembly. Do a search on how to test each of what I have mentioned and go from there. Hope that helps some.

Carlos
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
i had the experience a couple years back of replacing what i thought was a battery gone bad with a "310 cca" interstate battery. thought interstate was a good battery. had it on the tender a couple days before i had the chance to ride. cranked right up and off i rode. stopped a while later for gas and it wouldn't crank. had the battery load tested where i bought it and it was weak. they replaced it with another battery of same size and brand. it did the same thing. did some research and found that the interstate battery is actually a re-badged 270 cca battery made by yuasa. got money back and put the old battery back in and ran it another year and a half. finally replaced it with a braille. moral of the story; buy a GOOD battery and get rid of the headaches. but yes, do check the VR and the charging system.
 

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
I had a similar once as well. Would crank fine if left on the tender but a coupe days off just click.
I had a couple wires rub through the insulation under the battery box discharging the battery.
Use a meter and test that you system is charging is while running like Little-Boo is saying to verify the charging system is working. Should see over 13vdc while running.
I could see voltage on my battery frame and the circuit breaker housing due to wires that rubbed through. Once I corrected that my issue was gone.
I did not believe when they load tested my battery it showed good and bought one anyway before I found my issue.
Just something else to check.
Neil
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
I am with Wood on this one. However as Little-Boo said, check the charging system. Check it at the battery with the bike running. You should have 13 to 14 volts running and you need at least 12.8 with motor not running to start it. Check the battery voltage after you take it off the tender then start it up and shut it back down and check the battery voltage again. If you are getting 13 to 14 volts with the engine running then your charging system is good. If not then check your breaker and/or fuse. I have used the Harley battery now for some time, its around $100 bucks and has a pretty good warranty on it and you can usually find it locally. Just because the battery is new and it shows 12.8 volts cold, doesn't mean it is good.
 
The battery shows 13.1 v before I start it, and while running, it shows 13.8v. I think my stator is good. The trip under the battery cover is not tripped either. Checked all wires all over that bike. I can't find a single one loose or rubbed anywhere? The terminals are tight and the ground to the top of the starter is tight. The green wire going into the starter is tight too.
 
The starter just spins, but the engine doesn't try to turn over at all. Tried it twice, but couldn't bear to try it again!! Just too many sparks!
 

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
The starter just spins, but the engine doesn't try to turn over at all. Tried it twice, but couldn't bear to try it again!! Just too many sparks!
Sounds like the starter shaft has broke.
You need to open your primary and you find the starter gear laying there.
Neil




 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Did you say "SPARKS"? Where are the sparks coming from? Also what is the battery voltage after you start?
 
If the shaft was broken, it wouldn't fire at all? It will start directly off the charger. The sparks come when I arc the two bolts on top across to make it spin.
 

LARS

sippin & cruzin
"click" check starter relay if you still have EHC,starter "missing",may not be aligned properly or starter issue,By no means do I claim to be a mech.Good luck
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
If the shaft was broken, it wouldn't fire at all? It will start directly off the charger. The sparks come when I arc the two bolts on top across to make it spin.
You need to post a picture of what you are connecting wires to and to where exactly........
 
I would also check the starter solieniod contacts.
+1
Mine was doing the exact same thing, fired up right off of the charger but would click every other try. Clean the contacts on the solenoid. If they are dirty that equals resistance, and resistance =low voltage at the starter.
 
Top