Lost Oil Pressure - ZERO

Energy One

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Whoooohooooo! Progress! Maybe next week you'll have it ready to go, what cha think young man, can you do it? Remember, when you do fire it up have someone make a video of you so I can see the smile on yur face when ya's hear that 585 idling!
Haha... Yea I'll have it done by next Monday or Tuesday. I got both days off work. So this is a priority along with installing the new water heater.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Great Job. You hung in there and got it done. Clean clean then clean again. :D
Don't need anything else to go wrong. :oldswear: :chopper::chopper:
 

BWG56

Guru
Furnace works too..

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Make up your mind :oldlaugh: the below lines are from your earlier posts :yesnod:

Nice!! ya I was just looking at new air handlers... Maybe next year.
My saga continues! Need a gofundme for an air handler...got a feeling no takers here haha.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Well - The saga continues.

Oil pump installed bike was running great never got it off the lift and was just finishing up everything and now its smoking like CRAZY. White Smoke and plugs are wet as hell and it appears oil is pooling in the heads and not draining back down? Front head is worse than rear but I have oil leaking out of the exhaust pipes and out the rear head breather. Well I know the pump is working cause there is PLENTY OF OIL UP THERE.

I am guessing my exhaust valve seals are Completely SHOT. Not really sure how that happened though went from fine to AWFUL rather quickly. I have plenty of oil pressure and everything was looking good.

Looks like I gotta pull the heads now - I guess a Full Top-End Rebuild is in order.

I ran a quick Compression test and I'm sitting at 210PSI on the rear and about 190PSI on the front - NOT AWFUL but not great either.
 

SMCT

Active Member
Sounds like you got way to much oil in it. Your cranking compression tests are not exactly accurate if you have oil all in the chambers. I would drain it bone dry, filter, crankcase and tank, then put a rag over the spark plug holes and let it spit as much oil out of the cylinders as possible. Put 2.75 to 3 quarts into it and start it. Do not rev it, let it completely warm up unti the oil thins out before you rev it up.

If you think about it, I would just assume you had none of this issue as your describing prior to the shaft breaking and now that the shaft is fixed, you have oiling issues in the cylinders.
 
Last edited:

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Sounds like you got way to much oil in it. Your cranking compression tests are not exactly accurate if you have oil all in the chambers. I would drain it bone dry, filter, crankcase and tank, then put a rag over the spark plug holes and let it spit as much oil out of the cylinders as possible. Put 2.75 to 3 quarts into it and start it. Do not rev it, let it completely warm up unti the oil thins out before you rev it up.
Would you not think my valve guides are shot though?

I assume you recommend this before I remove the heads?

I did pull the spark plugs and cranked it over not much oil came out.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

SMCT

Active Member
Would you not think my valve guides are shot though?
No.

I assume you recommend this before I remove the heads?
Absolutely.

Once you do this, expect it to still smoke because you have oil in the exhaust pipe. It will take a bit to burn out and clean up. Once you do the process I mentioned, take it for a nice drive.

The problem that I see with these engines, is that the oil is very thick, especially until it really warms up, which takes some time. The pump, even with the oil thick, will send it up just as fast as if it was thin. The issue being that it sits up in the head until the viscosity breaks down and makes its way back on down and starts to flow equally up and down. The oil pumps scavenge section is poor at best, so many might look into the tank when cold and add oil, and that's a no no until it completely warms up and you ride it a bit. You can't go wrong with getting the complete system dry, and starting with 2.75 to 3 quarts regardless what the tank height is.

P.S. I assume you got the clocking of the breather correct in relation to the crank.
 
Last edited:

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
No.



Absolutely.

Once you do this, expect it to still smoke because you have oil in the exhaust pipe. It will take a bit to burn out and clean up. Once you do the process I mentioned, take it for a nice drive.

The problem that I see with these engines, is that the oil is very thick, especially until it really warms up, which takes some time. The pump, even with the oil thick, will send it up just as fast as if it was thin. The issue being that it sits up in the head until the viscosity breaks down and makes its way back on down and starts to flow equally up and down. The oil pumps scavenge section is poor at best, so many might look into the tank when cold and add oil, and that's a no no until it completely warms up and you ride it a bit. You can't go wrong with getting the complete system dry, and starting with 2.75 to 3 quarts regardless what the tank height is.
Cool..makes sense. I may have kinked the oil Exit line coming from the oil pump to the filter I guess just enough to back every thing up that it would never catch back up. I assumed it would be able to catch back up but that's probably a poor assumption since the oil pump moves as much oil in as it does out. Can't move more out than in



I'll drain it all and go from there. Just draining the cam chest now

I'll pull the exhaust off I need to clean them up anyways and blow compressed air to try and help dry them out a bit

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
To me, this one braided line looks kinda kinked. You should take a real close look at it, sometimes they don't form back.

Thats the cam chest vent line. I got that one to form back into shape.


I ordered a new hose for the oil pump to filter housing as I can't get it back into shape fully. Waiting for it to arrive.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

SMCT

Active Member
Clip some of the braided away in that area. You're getting a new line anyway. You can do it with a cut off wheel or a dremmel with one of those small cut off wheels on it. This way the rubber will go back into shape so you can get it running.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
That some good advice Andy. Yes it is hard to believe the exhaust valve seals are completely shot now when last time bike was running fine.
Good luck Eric.
:D :oldthumbsup:
 
Top