Looking for input on Transmission

mcgroom

Well-Known Member
At what point should the clutch engage when releasing the lever?

Over the past 7k or so it feels as if the lever keeps getting further and further out.

I have adjusted the clutch twice. The 1st time it seemed to make a little difference. The last time it did'nt seem to make any difference at all.

The clutch does release completely, (does not creep when pulled in or in nuetral), the bike shifts fine, it down shift fine, etc.

I just think it should engage the clutch when the lever is about 1/3 out as opposed to engaing at 2/3 out.

Bike is just over 13k miles.

Any thoughts?

Let me know if more info is needed.

I either want to deal with the problem, (if it is one) before it gets to bad or quit thinking about it until it actually needs to be thought of.
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
mick, it could just be the normal wear of the disc plates themselves. might want to start thinking about a bandit. or better yet, a karata belt drive with a karata clutch.
 

emcclary

Active Member
damn on my 07 K9 the clutch engages after I release it about 1/2" from fully pulled. 2/3's out sound like some wear to me as well do you do a lot of city driving where you use the clutch alot?
 

mcgroom

Well-Known Member
mick, it could just be the normal wear of the disc plates themselves. might want to start thinking about a bandit. or better yet, a karata belt drive with a karata clutch.
This was pretty much my thoughts as well as far as the wear is concerned. Not real sure how it was ridden before me, but I can see where I could be in need of replacing the clutch at this milage.

As for the Karata system, I have been thinking all year it will make a good rainy weekend project.

With that said, the upcoming wedding has forced me to pretty much drop what some of these 06 K9's are going for in the swapmeet.

Having a tough time thinking about throwing another 2k+ on a Karata system for a couple more months.

Might be a good Christmas gift to myself.

Now I may have to increase the amount stop light to stop light riding I do so it will wear that much quicker. Then it becomes a need and not so much a want.
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
When you say you adjusted the clutch... you did it from the clutch rod at the ball ramp and then the freeplay?

Just want to make sure.

IF so then perhaps pull the clutch and check the stack height.
 

mcgroom

Well-Known Member
When you say you adjusted the clutch... you did it from the clutch rod at the ball ramp and then the freeplay?

Just want to make sure.

IF so then perhaps pull the clutch and check the stack height.
That's why I posted this Chris, incase I missed something.

Gave the lever freeplay at the cable, remover derby cover, loosened lock nut, slowly turned rod in until it made contact, backed it back out a quarter turn and retorqued the lock nut before setting clutch tension.

When you say stack height, what are you refering too?
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
total thickness of the steels and clutch plates must be within tolerance or the clutch will not hold as it should. will not allow the pressure spring to exert the correct amount of pressure on the clutch. i'm sure the figures have been posted on here at some time but don't know them off the top of my head. sorry.
 

mcgroom

Well-Known Member
total thickness of the steels and clutch plates must be within tolerance or the clutch will not hold as it should. will not allow the pressure spring to exert the correct amount of pressure on the clutch. i'm sure the figures have been posted on here at some time but don't know them off the top of my head. sorry.
Of course, I had to ask....:bang:

I liked it better when it was "honey, I am pretty sure my clutch is bad so I might as well convert to an open primary while I am in there"....and she says "OK".

Now I am going to have to confirm....:rant:

Oh well.

Hey Wood, did Narrow get his forks back together yet?
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
Of course, I had to ask....:bang:

I liked it better when it was "honey, I am pretty sure my clutch is bad so I might as well convert to an open primary while I am in there"....and she says "OK".

Now I am going to have to confirm....:rant:

Oh well.

Hey Wood, did Narow get his forks back together yet?
bdm sent the wrong parts to lowcountry customs. their still waiting on overnight to forward to him. should get them by friday, with any luck. thanks for asking. don't know if he will get it back together by the weekend or not.

you can always lie about the clutch being out of tolerance!?
 

mcgroom

Well-Known Member
bdm sent the wrong parts to lowcountry customs. their still waiting on overnight to forward to him. should get them by friday, with any luck. thanks for asking. don't know if he will get it back together by the weekend or not.

you can always lie about the clutch being out of tolerance!?
Not to myself I can't...:angry:

My girl is cool as hell and smart. She told me to take care of paying all the bills knowing damn well by doing so it forces me to make resposible decisions. She did'nt even bat an eye when I told her I was going to drop a little over 2k into the bike. She just gave me a kiss and said "What ever makes you happy".

At least if its fucked up, than I can justify it.

Either way, something to think about.
 

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
That's why I posted this Chris, incase I missed something.

Gave the lever freeplay at the cable, remover derby cover, loosened lock nut, slowly turned rod in until it made contact, backed it back out a quarter turn and retorqued the lock nut before setting clutch tension.

When you say stack height, what are you refering too?
Well that is good on the clutch adjustment.

My next guess is the stack height or possible spring plate tension slacking.

Stack height

 
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