LIFTER replacement questions

[Dogbone]

HI all, want to replace my lifters and need directions on how to do properly. do i need to soak them? manually pump them under fluid? how to change them out in the lifter blocks. reason being i adjusted mine when i replaced the lower jug gaskets and i noticed that one push rod would never really tighten down when you done the three rounds. you could still turn the rod. that tells me i have a bad one due to loosing its prime. What do you think?

 

[woodbutcher]

did you put the correct pushrod in the correct spot????? they are all just a little different length and don't work otherwise.

 

[Dogbone]

pretty sure i did. i laid them out just like they came out. also did one jug at a time so i would get everything mixed up. changed out my cam to and now starting to get some marble noises coming.

 

[pknowles]

pretty sure i did. i laid them out just like they came out. also did one jug at a time so i would get everything mixed up. changed out my cam to and now starting to get some marble noises coming.

do you have a shop manual?

 

[Dogbone]

Checked the S S manual. dont say anything about pre-soaking...etc...just lube exterior and insert. really need any advice from ones that have put them in before.....thanks guys

 

[Th3InfamousI]

I assume you mean replace your pushrods? Unless you bent one not much that can go bad with them.

Lifters are different, Lifters are what ride the cam lobe and push the rods up and down. Lifters are rare in requring replacement you would have some other bigger problem if you had bad lifters.

 

[Dogbone]

yep lifters. i didnt like the way one felt when i rebuilt the cylinders due to an oil leak.

 

[Little-Boo]

I hope this link still works, and if it does follow it to the "T". My PC is not doing video, drvers are fucked so I can check to see if it works. If it does It will walk you through a cam change as well as adjusting lifters


http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/h...-adjustment-bleeding-hydros-2.html#post469473


Carlos

 

[Sven]

i didnt like the way one felt when i rebuilt the cylinders due to an oil leak.

If there is any consolation, I've been on a run it seems with a few engine families. First was a shovelhead. Gave all the wounds at the push rods, and with one lifter, I could still push it down. The other 3 did not feel the same. They had resistance. I said let it ride when I light it off. I'll tear it back down if something sounds wrong. Didn't hear a peep out of it.

The second one was an evo engine. Dunked those lifters in clean oil and primed them. Found another one that would not hold. Said, let that one ride too. Maybe under pressure it does not matter? Engine fires off fast. So, that might mean full valve lift no matter which cylinder she starts from. I've called the evo, 'bulletproof' ever since.

 

[bigdogtech01]

Lifters (tappets) fill with oil once oil pressure is reached with motor running. Just as S&S stated, just use some oil or assembly lube on sides and on lobes of cam when installing. Make sure your pushrods are in correct location. Longest being front Exhaust, second longest is rear exhaust, third is front intake, shortest is rear intake.
It's not a bad idea to replace the Lifters while doing a motor rebuild. But, the lifter that was giving you some problems, may have just bled down, and not the rest. Make sure your Tappet screen is nice and clean. Check and clean every oil change or 5000 miles at least.

 

[bigdogtech01]

"i noticed that one push rod would never really tighten down when you done the three rounds."

Another note, it's 4 turns out after light drag, Not 3.

 

[BadBrad]

Does the "oddball" lifter allow the pushrod to turn immediately after you make the 4 full turns? If you wait about 15 minutes, the lifter will adjust and should allow the pushrod to turn freely using your fingers.

 

[Dogbone]

ANdrew, pretty sure i done what was recommended, just threw that number out cause it sounded familiar..yea brad it will let me turn the push rod right after doing the adjustment.the others wouldnt turn until bleed down.

 

[V]

Not a hard job. The liifters now come in a 4 pack vs each unless you have a dealer that will sell by the pc. Will also need the gasket for the lifter block. If you have the stock pushrods they will be in the way of getting the lifters and block out, so now might be a good time for a set of "quickie pushrods" or "timesaver pushrods". If you install these you won't have to pull the roker boxes in the future if you need to work on the cam side of the bike. Also there is a lifter block "line up tool" that gets the lifter block lined up just right when you go to torque the block back down.
Last time I did one I used 2 tools and installed one in bolt hole #3 and #4 to make sure it was right when I did the intial torque on bolts #1 and #2.

I had one bike with 5000 miles where the front lifter was knocking at start up. Pulled the front exhaust lifter and blew compressed air back thru it. Crap came out that was harder than grease. Lifter screen had always been clean and was at the time of the build up of crap.:loony:

 

[Dogbone]

thanks V. i got the four pack. gaskets and wanting to be sure of installation procedures.

 

[Mojo]

I stand the lifters up, and soak them overnight. Pushrod adjustment it 4 turns out from base. When you replaced your cam, did you check the pinion/cam gear clearance, and the camshaft end-play?