Left Me Stranded

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
Just remember to check that pos wire from the VR to the battery first.... I bought clear tubing to run the wire through so it wouldn't rub on anything. Good luck!
Hey Bill, my pos wire from the regulator is triple protected so no worries there. It would have been an easy fix if that were the problem though.:( Thanks
 

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
For the no spark issue, it could be your cam sensor located in the nose cone. Right side of the engine, it's a round cover with two screws. Several members have had issues with this in the past. just a thought!
Hey Brew, you called it, at least part of the issue. I got the new VR installed along with new EHC and guess what? No spark, pulled cone cover off and it stinks of electric overheating. I thought the smell was from the fried wires to the speed sensor but that was only one of two. I'm afraid I will need to replace the cam sensor, :oldbang: but on a good note, a charging system monitor is on its way.
 
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Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
Update: so far I've replaced the battery, EHC, voltage regulator, circuit breaker, cam sensor on the way because of a strong smell of electrical burning and no spark. Would the VR take all these components out or maybe the battery had an internal fart and caused it all? I did find that the previous owner (tried) to solder the wires on the stator plug harness and when I pulled the old VR off of the bike the wires came apart from a bad soldering job. So maybe heat buildup or arcing on the stator harness. The circuit breaker never tripped so I'm thinking the battery started it all.
 
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Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
Well, I've replaced all known bad parts to include the cam sensor. Still no lights on the ignition module but cranks well. Turn sigs and brake lights now work. I wired the new cam sensor and matched the colors. EHC is in and charging monitor is installed. Anyway to test the IG module? :oldbang: My head hurts, lol.
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
Well, I've replaced all known bad parts to include the cam sensor. Still no lights on the ignition module but cranks well. Turn sigs and brake lights now work. I wired the new cam sensor and matched the colors. EHC is in and charging monitor is installed. Anyway to test the IG module? :oldbang: My head hurts, lol.
Do a search Gerald. There are several posts about the IM.

Here is one.http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/need-help-with-eletrical-problem.72160/#post-669574

Let me see if I can finda better one....
 

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
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Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
GREAT NEWS, I'm up and running again but have not taken it for a ride yet. I got my ignition module in from Curtis today, plugged it in and it fired right up. Now this is after replacing a shorted battery and EHC, voltage regulator, ignition switch harness plug and cam sensor. Also installed the charging system monitor to avoid this headache again. All were burnt and I had no fire so next step was the IM. Contacted Donna and was sent to Curtis and now I've got a cheese eating grin on my face. Charging voltage is right at 14.2V. Now I need to learn how to ride all over, lol. THANKS for all the help, tips and other suggestions, some worked some did not and others pushed me in the right direction. Let's Ride!
 

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
I tried to figure this out on my own but before I do something stupid like sell my bike, I'm seeking help from the guys who know. Rode my bike twice since the big meltdown and repairs, about 70 miles total. Got on the road Friday and about 1 mile from the house the bike dies, (it was a long way back pushing the beast, 2003 Pitbull). cranks fine and all lights work, but no spark now. Red led on the ignition module blinks while cranking and I have 12v on both yellow and red wires to the coil. I'm poised to purchase a new coil but I need to know that this is the problem. From the last breakdown in October, I've replaced the ignition module, voltage regulator, battery, Thunderheart EHC, cam sensor, and added a charging monitor. Anyway to verify bad coil or just change it? Please help. Thanks in advance for all the help provided.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
I tried to figure this out on my own but before I do something stupid like sell my bike, I'm seeking help from the guys who know. Rode my bike twice since the big meltdown and repairs, about 70 miles total. Got on the road Friday and about 1 mile from the house the bike dies, (it was a long way back pushing the beast, 2003 Pitbull). cranks fine and all lights work, but no spark now. Red led on the ignition module blinks while cranking and I have 12v on both yellow and red wires to the coil. I'm poised to purchase a new coil but I need to know that this is the problem. From the last breakdown in October, I've replaced the ignition module, voltage regulator, battery, Thunderheart EHC, cam sensor, and added a charging monitor. Anyway to verify bad coil or just change it? Please help. Thanks in advance for all the help provided.
Old school bro... Old School and ride....
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
Bill, I'm almost convinced but I wouldn't know where to start with something like that. Coils still go out with old school don't they?
Ya they can but it only happened to me once. With Old School there is a lot less to go wrong and IF something does almost any shop can fix it and the parts are cheap. The initial hit is around $700 but after that it's ride and don't worry.... I know it's not for everyone but I don't care about org. I just want to ride and not worry. For the first 6 months of buying the dog it would break down almost every time I rode it. I went Old School and put on over 8k since and it always starts, runs and is now a pleasure to ride.
 

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
Would the kill switch allow me to crank the bike but not allow spark when in the run position of it's bad? I've got no spark but ignition module blinks while cranking. Coil ohms out at 2.2 between red/yellow wires and 10.77 between both spark plug contacts, (high voltage). No reading when jumping ohm meter between red and spark plug contacts, (high voltage). Constant 12v at red/yellow wires on coil when switch is flipped to run position. Stock ignition with dual fire coil, 03 Pitbull. Any suggestions?
 
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