K9 repairs continue - Fork Rebuild

Energy One

Brent Herridge

Active Member
I had a shop replace the clutch and rebuild the tranny last summer, then I changed the final belt drive and the shocks and finally got the rear wheel straight after that. I blew a fork seal on the trip to BBBBQ last fall and I've just been riding it like that ever since.

I got the rebuild kit from Curtis and watched Marky Marc's video while it was still there. But it looked like a pretty tough job.......so I put it off all this time. I finally admitted I was a wuss and found a new shop (Southern Metal Choppers in Austin).

I took it in last week and picked her up yesterday. Things started great because they let me get in line 2 weeks earlier and then bring it in when they were ready to work on it. Then I get the call...........turned out the fork tubes were worn. I saw the old tubes and sure enough you could feel the visibly worn areas right where the top of the fork legs go. So they had to find new fork tubes. Forking by Frank did the custom tubes I had before, but they apparently don't need the work anymore, so they found tubes elsewhere. Turns out they're 16" over. Remember we speculated they were 14" ? Shop says they measured and the bike still has the same stance, so I guess that's what it is.

On the ride home, and even in the parking lot, the front end is MUCH tighter. Unfortunately the front wheel was bouncing / hopping like crazy. I came home and added 1 oz of EasyBeads, and a quick test ride did not show a lot of improvement. But familiar things like backing out over the garage step, and lifting the front end off the ground showed how badly I needed this done. Before the entire front end would drop what looked like a full inch when lifting it. There was LOTS of movement all over the front end before and none of that's happening now.

So the shop appears to have done their job. It was a weird vibe though. You'd think anybody with a chopper could be a Platinum level customer with the amount of work they could send to a shop. But I got the distinct impression they couldn't wait for me to leave and never come back. I thought I was polite the whole time, but I did question the 16" over measurement. I also discussed the repairs I had done, so maybe that's the turn off ? Hard to tell.........

Now I plan to finally ride the Twisted Sisters. It's about 3 hrs from home, so you need the long days of summer to make it a day trip. I'll post results when I do.

Any recommendations on the hopping front wheel ? Is that a natural consequence of putting 16" over on a bike designed for 12" over ?
 

pknowles

RETIRED
did you check the air pressure in the front tire and what weight oil did they use. just a couple suggestions.
 

roadie1389

Well-Known Member
What weight fork oil did they use. Not surprised about the tubes being worn. That far out puts a lot of pressure on them. I have 22k on my chopper and have replaced tubes 2 x now. I think the second tube set was just a piece of shit. The ones I got now seem a little better.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Really they said 16" over stock? It could just be what stock they are referencing so our 14 is his 16". I would assume they measured the tube length once apart and ordered the same size (at least you would hope). Does the stance look different?

If you measure from the bottom of the tree to the middle of the axle nut we should be able to figure it out.
 

Brent Herridge

Active Member
Wow Eric Roadie......that is a lot. I asked these guys if they thought I'd be back every other year and they hmmm'd and haw'd. Acted like they were scared to answer.

I believe they used 20W oil. That's what Curtis sent in the rebuild kit and its what I discussed with them when starting the work.

Air pressure is 40 PSI. I check it before every ride now.

Stance looks the same, so I believe new forks are same length as the old ones.

1593625809052.png

You can see its 46" from axle to the top of the tube where it meets the top of the tree.

I should also add that the neck bearings were changed and I also went with the progressive springs from Curtis. I figured the last rebuild would've included the progressive springs but they did not, so glad I included them.
 

roadie1389

Well-Known Member
20 is too soft for that bike. You should of gone 30W. It will firm up the ride a bit and get rid of the pogo You also went with the progressive springs right? That will COMPLETELY change the ride. They are softer at the short end and firm up as they compress.
 

Brent Herridge

Active Member
We'll find out tomorrow. The hopping front wheel kinda screws everything up for now. I think I'm just going to get a new tire. Compared to what I'm in for already, another $106 its not that much more since I'll have to unmount and remount the old one anyway.
 

Brent Herridge

Active Member
270 miles yesterday, and only had to do about 50 on city streets or freeways. I'm so lucky.... :)

The ride is definitely nice. No more wobbles in those high speed sweepers. :) The progressive springs are a definite improvement. When I first got the bike, I described ride quality as one of the biggest sacrifices. Now I'd say she is rather comfy. :)
 

Brent Herridge

Active Member
Final update - its finally done.

I put this font tire on before BBBBQ last year, and it was fine for that trip. Then, last winter, it wouldn't hold air, and then it wouldn't balance. Today I just replaced it and I'm finally back to where it should be. I can't explain how a tire grows impossible to balance, but it did.

After switching it out, the front end bounces a little, but no more of the constant vibration from an out of balance tire.

I'm so happy that the end-to-end rebuild is done. :)
 

PROFLYER

SWOLE
Most all of us run the dyna beads in our tires. I think the front takes 1oz and the rear 3oz on a 300. If you haven't added some of those, I'd highly suggest it. Easy to do, just pull the valve stem and use the bottle with a tube on it that fits over the valve stem. Put a hand sander against the stem (without any paper) and the vibration will help shake them in there. Have the stem about 4 or 7 o'clock so they have room to go in (or lift the bike up).

If you want to change the fork oil to 30w it is easy enough. Pull the axle, take the screws out of the bottom of the forks and drain the oil. Put them back in with some RTV on the ends so they seal well, then add the new oil through the top of the forks after you take the caps off. Caps off first so the oil drains well. I put the 20w in my wife's mastiff and then did the same on my K9, but I'm heavy enough and the fork angle really requires the 30w for the taller forks. Rides perfect now.
 

Brent Herridge

Active Member
Thanks. I added another oz of Dyna beads first. Had no effect.

I have the beads now with the new tire and it seems fine.

I'm chalking it up to a defective tire. Odd that it changed over time though with no obvious problems.
 
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