K9 Rebuild/Upgrade

Energy One
82ndAirborne

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
Back at it. Ordered a battery Box from BIG DOG, Donna didn't have the one I needed. The guy at BIG DOG assured me it would arrive by the weekend...NOT HERE! So, I moved my plans to the front end. Decided to install the Triple Trees and Forks. Prepared the Bearings...they wouldn't slide easily onto the shaft so I used a brass punch to tap them in place (Pic 1). They fit nice and snug...great. I've decided to put a thin layer of Silicone on ALL INTERNAL METAL PARTS to protect against water damage (Neck shaft, wheel hubs, and the inner side of the Struts where they bolt onto the fender). Next I tapped the bottom bearing in place (pic 2) then mounted the bottom Triple Tree. Now... only the nut remains...CRAP...you guessed it...WON'T FIT! (Pic 3). I initially thought there was some Chrome down in the hole on the Triple Tree, but the old nut goes in easily (Pic 4) however, the chrome is completely wore off. So, I thought I might be able to sand the outer portion of the nut, just the section that goes into the Triple Tree
 

Attachments

82ndAirborne

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
It's working...just a little more and it will fit. I figured if I burn my hands enough using this drill, the Tool God's will think of it as a sacrifice and give me a break. (Pic 1 & 2). Steadily working on my wheels, hubs, and brake cylinders. (Pic 3 & 4). Man...alot of work so far and plenty more to come.
 

Attachments

Snuffy

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
I was just thinking. You are spending a lot of money on all your parts and stuff then doing all the work yourself with limited knowledge. Why not spend the money on an expert wrench to make sure everything is put on correctly? There are many things that a wrench knows about this will or won’t work and tricks of the trade to make sure it’s done right. Just curious. I know it will be a great learning experience but things don’t always go right for the learners as they would for an experienced wrench. Best of luck to you and am looking forward to seeing the results.
 
82ndAirborne

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
I'm sure it takes me twice as long to complete a task as compared to someone with more experience...I've got at least 80 hours into it already. About 25% of that time has been spent carefully cleaning and polishing. Also, locating parts and service providers (Donna, S&S Cycles Andrew, Curtis, BAKER Transmission, Spacecoast, My Paint Guy, EBay, Lowes, Lowbrow Customs, Summit Racing, and Dennis Kirk). I admit, I don't always enjoy the work, especially the cleaning and polishing, but I want this bike to look new again...even better. I'm sure with enough money I could get it all done to my satisfaction, but most shops charge $125-$150 per hour. This would REALLY blow my estimate out of the water. I'll tell you the truth, I initially thought I could do this for around $12,000, but it's turned out to be double that. Mostly because I keep adding things that were NOT part of my initial estimate or plans. For example, I NEVER PLANNED to add Air ride, Tribal Forward Controls, Tribal Grips and Foot Pegs, Passenger Peg Mounts, 3" Extended Handlebar Kit, Swingarm Shaft, Swingarm Bolts & Bushings, Easy Pull Clutch, Short Belt Kit, Ignition Cover, Inner Primary, Head Bolt Covers, Wheel Spacers, Rear Brake Caliper Stop, BLOW Exhaust, Speedometer, Speedometer Housing, Rotor & Stator, Starter, Spike Air Filter, Dye Kit for the filters (Dark Orange to match my Jugs), Voltage Regulator, Circuit Breaker, and battery box. There were many other new parts that WERE part of my estimate, (Rear Pulley, Front and Rear Rotors, Transmission Cover and Neutral Switch, Oil Sensor, Battery Side Covers, Wiring for front and back turn signals, Headlight, License Plate Mount, Kickstand, Oil Lines, Oil Filter Housing, Steel Braided Fuel line, Spark Plugs, Plug Wires, Top and Bottom Motor Mount Bolts, Front and Rear Wheel Bearings, and Complete Front Fork Assembly. Also, I bought a few new parts and had them rechromed anyway because I believed Spacecoast would produce a superior end product...and they did! I adder new items to the chrome list also, Hand Controls, Triple Trees, Inner & Outer Primary. Basically, as I took things apart I kept thinking, "you may as well get this too while It's all apart." So, that's why I've managed to double my initial estimate. When it's done I'll have the bike exactly the way I want it...and I'll know that I did it myself. I feel a great sense of accomplishment when I complete each step... even though sometimes things go wrong in the process. I've had a few minor issues but I've managed to work through them. Most of these issues would have happened with even the best mechanic. So, yes it's been expensive, and will be a little bit more, but I'm glad I took it all the way. This is the bike I've always wanted and when it's finished, it will be exactly HOW I want it.
 
82ndAirborne

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
kickstart said:
Most do not understand Paratroopers!
Click to expand...
I just remembered something when I read your comment. See pic...our motto was "All the way", a commitment to go the distance and complete the mission! I'll get it done, and it WILL be done right. Of course I'll probably be broke; you can always get more money but I could never find another bike like this.
 

Attachments

Snuffy

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
My earlier post was not meant to discourage you from doing it yourself, just curiosity. Yes it will be done right and you can be damn proud of your accomplishments. You will also learn all about your bike in the process while saving a assload of money. Definitely a win win. Best wishes brother
 
82ndAirborne

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
I completely understand...no offense taken. If my insurance claim would have covered the damages I would ABSOLUTELY have taken it to a shop. I've been hit twice in my car in the past three years. Both times I reinjured my neck and back. Insurance wouldn't pay until I hired an attorney...so maybe in the end they'll pay a little of my cost. For now, I'll just assume it's all on me. Not sure if you remember this but I had written earlier about my neck Cup Bearings being almost seized up. I always had a bit of front end wobble at about 75 mph. Thank GOD I decided to take everything apart or I never would have found the problem. I've discovered several other problems in the process that I wasn't aware of. So, no regrets at all for deciding on a total Rebuild. Also, want to thank you and everyone else on the forum for your help, advice, and especially the encouragement I've received. Having you guys feels like an Insurance company that actually pays off when you need them.
 
82ndAirborne

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
On a different topic, I watched one of the videos Curtis makes (always great) that I'd never watched before. The topic was transmissions. In the video Curtis was repairing a transmission that had a broken main shaft. He went on to explain why...improper transmission fluid. He said the proper fluid should be a SYNTHETIC Lucas SAE 75W-140. Now, this got my attention for two reasons. When I bought my bike the previous owner told me that he had just had the transmission rebuilt by BAKER...the reason for the rebuild...Main Shaft Failure! Also, he gave me a list of all the lubricants he used on the bike. I continued with his recommendations. Transmission fluid he used (and I continued) was Lucas 75w-140 NON SYNTHETIC! So, has anyone else watched this video? Also, do you use SYNTHETIC or NON SYNTHETIC?
 
HMAN

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
82ndAirborne said:
On a different topic, I watched one of the videos Curtis makes (always great) that I'd never watched before. The topic was transmissions. In the video Curtis was repairing a transmission that had a broken main shaft. He went on to explain why...improper transmission fluid. He said the proper fluid should be a SYNTHETIC Lucas SAE 75W-140. Now, this got my attention for two reasons. When I bought my bike the previous owner told me that he had just had the transmission rebuilt by BAKER...the reason for the rebuild...Main Shaft Failure! Also, he gave me a list of all the lubricants he used on the bike. I continued with his recommendations. Transmission fluid he used (and I continued) was Lucas 75w-140 NON SYNTHETIC! So, has anyone else watched this video? Also, do you use SYNTHETIC or NON SYNTHETIC?
Click to expand...
I run syn in the trans and motor. Type F trans fluid for the primary.
 
82ndAirborne

82ndAirborne

Active Member
Supporting Member
I'll have to say that Curtis' video was quite convincing as to why a synthetic in needed on the Big Dogs. He explains that for 2005 and up, BAKER was asked to modify their 6 speed transmission and put in a case that met the design specs for Big Dog. In doing so the input side Bearing had to be smaller than the standard, larger bearing that's on the output (drive) side. Because of it's smaller diameter there are more revolutions. He goes on to say that standard (non synthetic) lube, because of the higher revolutions, is too thick and is slung off the rollers...resulting in poor lubrication. He explains that the synthetic is light enough to move back into the rollers alot easier at high revolutions. Hey...he convinced me. Watch the video if you haven't already. GOOGLE (Big Dog Transmission Video)
 
Mickmorris

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
82ndAirborne said:
I'll have to say that Curtis' video was quite convincing as to why a synthetic in needed on the Big Dogs. He explains that for 2005 and up, BAKER was asked to modify their 6 speed transmission and put in a case that met the design specs for Big Dog. In doing so the input side Bearing had to be smaller than the standard, larger bearing that's on the output (drive) side. Because of it's smaller diameter there are more revolutions. He goes on to say that standard (non synthetic) lube, because of the higher revolutions, is too thick and is slung off the rollers...resulting in poor lubrication. He explains that the synthetic is light enough to move back into the rollers alot easier at high revolutions. Hey...he convinced me. Watch the video if you haven't already. GOOGLE (Big Dog Transmission Video)
Click to expand...
I think you need to watch it again. Pretty sure he said the seal FAILED because of the redline fluid…. I could be wrong… if so my bad. This is exactly what he is referring to in his video. It’s full synthetic. I tried it in my Ironhorse because that’s what was in it previously. Switched to RevTech 80w90 and can’t complain about anything…. To each his own. Options never hurt.
:chopper:
IMG_9140.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Snuffy

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
Maybe others with more knowledge will chime in but, I thought the advantage to synthetic was that it didn’t break down as quickly and higher temperatures didn’t affect it like regular oil. Not that it necessarily flows through your engine and bearings better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top