K9 noise ?

[Johns150]

Hi guys
Finally got my k9 together and out tonight. First trophy:up:.
When I got to show and again when I got home on shut down I hear a ratchet noise coming from trans area. Normal? Almost sounds like a old (hmm showing my age) kick starter on the up swing. This was after a 25 mile run. I don't think the starter could be staying engaged. Any help would be great
Thanks

Some day I will figure out how to post a pic here

 

[Sven]

Congrats on the trophy.

Ratchet and a kicker pawl spinning on shutoff is what you say is it sounds like [to me is] a pawl spring? I'd say, no, not normal if there is a kick pawl system in the trans.

Edit for:

If no kicker system, starter would have the same kind of kick pawl in-and-out engagement system that keeps the pawl gears from meshing when not engaged. So, beats me what you installed, unless you tiewanTed'did, you didn't, did you? Add a kicker system to the trans?

 

[Johns150]

Nope have not added anything to it. Starter and trans are still original 2006 7000 miles on it

 

[Th3InfamousI]

If your starter is getting stuck it will be LOUD - You can't miss it.

Noise travels easily - before you tear it down make sure you are sure could be a # of things.

 

[05chop]

If this was my bike I would drain all boxes then look for metal.or pull starter have a look

 

[JeffM]

Sounds like the old foe.
Loose clutch hub nut.

Drain the primary, place alot of rags under cover, remove the cover, wriggle clutch basket, if loose remove plates till you have access to nut, L/H thread clean both threads, apply red locktite and torque up to "fucken tight" spec then re assemble.
Don't forget the oil and DO NOT USE Synthetic.
I'm sure that about covers it except to retension the chain.
More smarter people on here that me, and i am sure if i have sent you in the wrong direction they will advise.

 

[05chop]

Remove primary inspection cover use long flat blade driver check the starter ring gear for movement by prying on it .

 

[BBChopper]

Sounds like the old foe.
Loose clutch hub nut.

Drain the primary, place alot of rags under cover, remove the cover, wriggle clutch basket, if loose remove plates till you have access to nut, L/H thread clean both threads, apply red locktite and torque up to "fucken tight" spec then re assemble.
Don't forget the oil and DO NOT USE Synthetic.
I'm sure that about covers it except to retension the chain.
More smarter people on here that me, and i am sure if i have sent you in the wrong direction they will advise.

:iagree:

 

[Sven]

Sounds like the old foe.
Loose clutch hub nut.

I'd [agree we] start looking there if we can say the noise is on the left side. If you had the clutch basket off the shafts on this rebuild, I drop red loctite at the end of nut's threads so just the tip has the locker, not a whole bunch of threads. An air gun is your friend if you can tell how much is tight on the [final] squeeze of the gun.

And if you can't get the spines to mesh, use a jeweler's file to take the burrs off the ends. Less material removed, the better the bite.

 

[Johns150]

Hmm it's def not starter that I would know it's also not very loud but it's there the clutch cage would make sense. Would the clutch a little tight cuse any issue. I did adjust it to stop creep at a stop.
I do here a slight noise on left at idel in or out of gear on or off the clutch. The ratchet on shut down def louder on right. Going to do more digging sat.

 

[Johns150]

Also it was apart for paint no eng or trans work was done. There was no noise when I put it up for the winter.

 

[Sven]

Would the clutch a little tight cuse any issue. I did adjust it to stop creep at a stop.

What or how did you attempt to stop creep? Yes, that push rod needs to breath some.

I do here a slight noise on left at idle

Adjust screw so wound up against the push rod, push rod us up against the needle bearing (if applies).

in or out of gear on or off the clutch. The ratchet on shut down def louder on right. Going to do more digging sat.

See, if we are now back on the right side you did not mention a clutch problem until now. I'm trying to think if you put the puppy away without any problems, you have creep going on, you tightened the nut how against the clutch push rod?

So, if I have this right, no shaft broken say is the one scenario of no winter noise. But engine and trans was out for paint so on assembly, creep is the culprit?

 

[grizfish]

Maybe not your clutch or starter.......

If you have creep at a stop, was it difficult to shift into gear? Could you have slammed the shifter too hard, bending the shift pawl?

A bent shift pawl could cause gear misalignment where the gears rub together in neutral.

 

[Johns150]

Only the tins were off the bike. Motor and trans were not touched. When I was sitting at a light in gear clutch in it would still creep like the clutch was not fully disengaged. I adjusted the clutch cable to pull a little more to stop it and it did. I noticed the notice the next day. I can't see a clutch adjustment dosing it but I will Olsen it and see if it stops.

 

[Slick-Dog]

Sounds like the clutch hub nut backed off.. Put you hand on the primary(towards the kick stand) and feel for vibration(when warmed up) you should really be able to hear it when its on the kick stand...IF that works and IT is the clutch hub nut..spend 8 bucks and get a new heat treated nut from baker... NOW iam not starting anything here negative or disrespective (this is my disclaimer LOL ) this is just my experience with this problem.. They (baker) told me when you re-touque a clutch hub nut like that,it will stretch the threads and soon back off again...which that happen to me.. 8 bucks fixed it for me....wow sorry I got it to so far

 

[Sven]

Only the tins were off the bike. Motor and trans were not touched.

Not trying to bust your chops, but now, I'm going to assume tins means fenders. I'm going to also assume you had something painted but the engine and trans were never removed out of the frame. Correct?

So we are back to, 'when I parked it, she was fine.' Now, all of a sudden I had to adjust my clutch and I hear this noise. Are we on the same page for this? See where I'm looking at that clutch nut as one mentioned as a ratchet kind of noise on the left side? You hear it no matter clutch in or clutch out, which makes sense the clutch outer is walking with even more tolerance...

I adjusted the clutch cable to pull a little more to stop it and it did. I noticed the notice the next day. I can't see a clutch adjustment dosing it but I will Olsen it and see if it stops.

Now, I'm going to assume you were following the whole basket as it becomes a complete unit unto itself. Think of it as if there was no nut at all, I could pull that whole inner/outer clutch assembly off its shaft> as one unit.

So as the nut backs out, you are following the pushing out [or backing away] of the pressure plate. The basket now walks with the pressure plate. See, if I shimmed the whole clutch outer away from the trans output shaft, I'd have to extend the push rod too. Same as if I had to shim out the front sprocket so both belt/chain sprockets would line up again... We see this example of 'walk out?'

Back to Jeff's post.

If I am belt drive, I can bungee the clutch lever to the grip, then pull the clutch outer in and out. It should have some movement, but nothing like an 1/8" or more. See that many turns at the push rod adjust screw? An 8th is a lot of push rod extension.

If I am chain drive with oil, I have a sub-cover [on the primary cover] to adjust the clutch, right? I'd lean that bike over so no oil comes out. Same deal but without the bungee at the lever. This time, take a pair of pliers and grab the clutch assembly or pressure plate and move it in and out. We have the same float? > Then, it sounds like a Nut going loose... You'd think.

But you are saying right side noise and we are not standing next to you listening to the noise you hear. So, that's where I'd start is the easy shit first and that's on the left side we go chasing nut walk on the left side.

 

[Sven]

Let me say that if I were to check for basket float, I'd back off of the push rod adjust screw. Why? The clutch outer would float a lot more. This way now, the nut and rod took that gap up as you chased that creep. Make sense?

 

[Johns150]

Ok I'm going to back off the clutch again and see first if noise stops. If not I will pull the cover and check the nut. Do I need a gasket for the primery cover?

 

[Sven]

No, not if you can loophole removing the primary but the sub-cover instead. Float is what you want to look for.
Yes, you break the seal on a paper gasket, replace the gasket with new. This is where you removed the clutch assembly and checked the nut itself.

Say top fuel engines are torn down each round. You see new nuts being replaced? Bolts?
Say you rub both hands together, which stayed cold? So if this thread pitch wrinkles, won't the other threads wrinkle too? Don't we have to replace both shaft and nut we think someone states thread damage is only done to one side of a nut and not the shaft? BS. That's why torque values are used as a limiter so no threads distort, correct?

 

[Johns150]

Is there a how to on the nut issue. I also see there is an oring that should be removed the bdm manual sucks lol