Based on what I believe it should have triggered a +5V voltage when I did this. So it looks like sensor is bad.
Based on watt I know, a crank, speed, and cam sensor are basically the same AC producers "as like" a rotor and stator. But on a lower scale in voltage output. Yes, an IC [integrated circuit] receives 12v and the voltage ends there. Out the other leg(s) is 5v; wired up to a resistor(s) and or capacitor(s) you have 3 variables to play with as in timing thresholds. A clock would hold a time. A stopwatch would have its own type of timing thresholds. Fuel injectors would have their own and so on.
In the processing, the volts may shoot as HIGH as 5.5v or a value of 1 read in binary. Getting technical in the basics of it again, the running LOW range is considered turned OFF or steps down to 0.8v in range or is now written as 0 in the binary conversion. Lastly, 1.2v is noise so that range is not normally used.
So withundreds of words covering my ass as the steps step to the music, watthell you throwing 12v thru an AC wire for? It needs to have a magnet pass by it to produce AC. I'm sure you could hook up 12v to it like you did, but have the ohm meter set at 20v, see if the wires have not broken inside is one way to check it.
But I think the test is to find its peak "ouput" voltage and that calls for a peak voltage tool. For argument sake, a cam sensor should push out 2.+v. Anything under that number is a 'signal out of range.' And that test is not a bench test with a 12v source. I would not cause the tiny coil to act as a fuse or overheat it with the wrong watts sucking up 12v and that wire strand melts thru its coating, touches the next wire, etc. That test of the tiny AC sensors is to crank the engine so the magnet makes the voltage out past 2+v.
Cam sensor detects which cylinder is 'next to fire.'
Crank sensor is tested with a VOM and a numbered range is the blueprint of that resistance number.
Crank sensor is the 'chain' to running. Without the crank sensor, any computer bike defaults to a 'boat anchor.'
Cam sensor has a 'peak voltage' needing to be met/measured with special tool and a spinning [dead] engine.
Crank sensor came before cam sensor. The logic would be a crank sensor would start the bike, not a cam sensor. I could be wrong in this case.
Variables:
'Last good signal' saved:
a. As bike runs, cam sensor fails while running, last good signal keeps engine running.
b. As bike is turned off, last saved RAM is lost upon grounding, meaning, cycling key off to ground.
c. As bike is keyed back on, might ROM start bike with cam sensor disconnected? With cam sensor in the loop, no good known signal sent, wire short to ground, short internally, it sends a wave not within range so ROM is the backup to keep it running? And that is after 25 or more passes before an (alleged) backup should start it or the processor is not designed that way? It runs in the cheap seats where (more parts) are needed is a bigger motherboard, or a simple flipflop is the process. Meaning, it's either/or.
d. As bike's blackbox sweeps or pings all signals, note light stayed off is it triggered the box as if a good known signal pinged it off. Where is the default ROM to start the bike no cam sensor? Now the question is... will it run with cam out of the loop?
e. As bike works in an ON/OFF kind of flip of the flop, might one remotely ground the one wire, bend any size resistor, meaning, [its legs] into the main wire harness connector and address those other 2 wires.
In theory:
1. This flips the light off and holds the flop.
2. This now sends a single [same over and over] value each time.
3. This should trigger a backup spark past so many revolutions is the AC is not linear anymore.
4. This says I remove plugs, have the spin occur faster, watch the spark come back online with so many spins; the backup shows it sparks [in default mode] and does not need a cam sensor. That or back to a cheap ass processor acting like a crank sensor is either one fails, no backup? BS is why I choose my threads carefully is learn how the processor works as I read the processor built>>> in so many moves.
The OP throws 12v at a sensor... wire in is wire out, sure it would show something broken internally, if not has a certain smell to it; as in burnt caused by induced heat. But the OP does not mention 'smoke' during the test. Lucky?
The OP thinks 5v is sent out the sensor... or whatever the abstract was mentioned, you gotta lift the hood and know "watt parts is parts is" doing... or I'm going to pull your trousers down, look for sand and brush it off wit ha steel brush.
The OP makes an assumption the sensor is bad using 12v, not as suggested is that special tool finding its 'peak value' and spin the shit up is testing a cam sensor.
Signed,
NOLTT
