Jetting?

[Raywood]

Raywood - As the bike sits now with 33/ 76 with the accel screw all the way in the air mixture screw is 2.5 rounds out which is middle ways of the inner and outter adjustment as per the instructions. Then in order to get any throttle response the accel pump has to be backed out 2.5 turns. To have it respond instantly it is more like 3 to 3.25 turns out which from everything I have read that is screaming for more int jetting. Is this correct?

I don't know. I think 2.5 turns out is excessive indicating to large a jet.

When you had it apart did you ensure it was cleaned thourouly from the polishing.

Did you run an feeler gauge through that "very small" slit in the top of the long brass tube that the blue o-ring sits on?

I think you have other issues to tell you the truth but thats hard to do when we are 2500 miles apart and from behind a key board.

 

[avdhunter]

Yes after all the goofing around I did I actually took it to my buddies shop and he has one of those electolis cleaners. Put it in there then blew everything out real well. Didn't put a feeler guage in the slit that squirts the gas from the accel pump do I need to? When I twist the throttle It squirts the hell out of the gas(3 rounds out on accel pump screw). I must have read everything wrong cause I was under the impression that anything over 2.5 rounds out on accel pump meant need for larger int jet?!?!??!!??!!

 

[Raywood]

Oppps, ass backwards on my above comment of 2.5 turns out. You are correct it indicates that you need a larger jet but I still think there are other issues within the carb or aircleaner that should be sorted out before going up to like a 34-36 jet.

Good luck

 

[littlef66]

AVD--I havent had time to mess with mine today, but it sounds like you are making progress. I am going to jack with mine this weekend and get it figured out. I will let you know what jets i have in mine. We have the exact same problem. I think it is with the aircleaner. Although I hope I can get it going since I spent $600 on that D&M cone and I really like the way it looks. Please let me know if you come up with a better solution.

Thanks
Farley

 

[LDO]

It's a shame that something that offers such a cosmetic change in our bikes (ACs) can't be made in a way that will provide equal satisfaction in the performance department as well.

Tried & true S&S type is great on performance but not as flashy as other options out there.

 

[avdhunter]

little - I did jack with it some more and still not sure what my next step will be. I went up to 78 on the main with little to no change. Just for shits and giggles I put in a 35 int and the stumble was gone. Pulled the plugs afterwards and no signs of running too rich. Now no signs on the plugs but a slight blackness to the exhaust when stabbing the throttle. I am going to ride it around in town(slow low rpm) tomorrow and then see what the plugs look like. Thing is next week My buddy and I are building a new exhaust for the bike soooooo I probably am thru fooling with it til after the new pipes. Will probably either drill out the air bleed to be able to change the jet in it or just go ahead and step out and get a XXX. Keep me updated on your progress tho.
LDO - you are soooooo right!!!!!:bang: :bang: :angry: :angry:

 

[RCAdd1ct]

Can you cut a beer can and cover the front of the K&N filter?

That would stop some of the Ram Air effect.

Also, opening up the bottom or back to get the air to flow around the filter instead of being forced into the filter would help.

On my V-Star 650, one of the big mods everyone was doing was reworking the stock filter to be a ram air system. I never could get that thing jetted right. After a month or so of jacking with it, I covered the ram air hole and had it tuned pretty quick.

 

[TCALZ06]

You need to increase your intermediate jet I'm guessing. When I went to my short pipes and no baffles I had to jet up a lot. I was running V&H big radius and a 31/74 before the pipe change

I'm now running a 36/78 and the bike runs great

Every time I've had the problem you are describing it's been the intermediate jet.
First when the dealer installed the Big Radius pipes and left the stock jets in and then when I went to the Miami Exhausts short pipes

 

[McLovin]

I wish I could offer some insight to a solution to your issue, but you know exactly what the problem is, as indicated in the quote below:

Oh it's without a doubt the air cleaner. It ran without a hicup til I put that F%*@er on there.

and I think Ray's response right below it is dead-on-balls accurate (That's an industry term).

I also tried different aircleaner setups, everything from a D&M spike, which was too constrictive no matter what jets I used, to a velocity stack, which was too open, no matter what jets. Bob @ XXX was very helpful every time I called him, but my problem was not with the carb, it is great, the problem was with the aircleaner setup. I finally went back with the stock cover and a K&N filter which allowed proper jetting to be used.

The fact that you say it was dyno tuned twice, but you can't replicate the added air going in the carb without a backpack blower sounds like your motor could be tuned to run good at highway speeds, or run good while not moving, but not both with the skull aircleaner setup. I wish you all the luck in the world in getting the best of both worlds because the two skulls look badass...

 

[avdhunter]

RC - The front of the filter has a metal cone on it. I will take some pics of all sides of the skull this weekend but the way it's designed I don't think there is really any way of opening it up to allow the air to pass thru but I will look at it closely to try and figure something out because if it could be done it is bound to help. GREAT IDEA!

TCAL - Thanks for that info!!!!

McLovin - Yea I love the skulls but if it won't run right it will have to go ..... but just not near ready to give up yet! I have been accused (by my wife mainly) of being a "Stuborn Jackass" I think were her exact words!!!!! :roll:

 

[littlef66]

Have an additional question for you guys. Do you think if I turn my cone to where it points up this will correct my problem?

 

[avdhunter]

Little - I have seen some posts on here where people did that and it helped. One on my buds had an 04 ridgeback with a cone and they canged out the ignition system as to be able to better fine tune it with timing curves. That was the only was they were able to get his perfect. I may be looking at the same thing before all is said and done. Just not ready to go there yet!!!

 

[Gas Man]

Sounds like you guys are chasing down the problem. I have 2 pts of interest.

1. Have you checked for an intake leak?
2. I would dump the pre-consieved notions of what it is "suppose" to be. Listen to what the bike is telling you. If it stumbles (coughs out the carb) at the upper end of the int jet, then it needs more fuel. Give it more fuel.

Understand, that you spend most of your time riding on your int jet. So make it right. I have even heard some say you can go a little fat on the int jet if its a bit lean on the main. Idea being you clean up the plugs when you hit the main jet. I'm not sure about it.

Bottom line, a good dyno will help you run the bike right. However, it won't be able to simulate the highway speed very well. You will be plagued with the same thing the spike guys are.

 

[avdhunter]

Thanks for the input Gas. Yes I have checked for leaks on both ends of the motor and found none. Gonna ride it this weekend with the 35/78 combo and see what happens!

 

[littlef66]

AVD--I just got off of the phone with D & M air filters and they suggested something. I am going to put a rain cover around the filter to help reduce this ram air effect. He said this fixes the problem for most people. I know it wont fit your skull but maybe you can buy a couple and modify them to fit your filter somehow. I will let you know how this works out when I get it in the next couple of days.

 

[McLovin]

Come to think of it, I think I still have one of those spike rain covers if anyone needs it...

 

[jeffbradford]

I had the same problems with my wimmer spike. but as gas said listen to your bike. I did end up with a 33/78 and 59 air bleed with the plug removed. The plug is located in the carb body next to a float bowl screw. hope this helps

 

[avdhunter]

Little - mine does have a rain cover. My filter is basicly what you see guys running with the filter exposed. Mine just has the shull encasing it!
Jeff - I have the bowl vent plug removed. Thinking that I really need to have my air bleed drilled and tapped so i can adjust that part of the equation also. Thanks for the info

 

[avdhunter]

Ok put about 600 miles on her this weekend with the 35/78 combo. The bike ran better than it has since the day I bought it. Pulled the plugs this morning and the look great. I guess what Gas said is correct ... listen to your bike. I can tell that it is a little on the fat side sitting at idle but all seems to be fine while under way. Looked at the skull and I could machine a window in the bottom of it just behind the jaw that could be 3.5" X 4" to allow the air that goes into the skull to have an escape passage to alleviate some of the forced air effect. Still debating that one tho. Think I am thru tuning on in until my mandrel U-bends get in this week and I get thru building the new pipes. Once I get them built, chromed and installed I will finish the fine tuning.

 

[littlef66]

So I finally got a K&N filter cover and that has helped out tremendously. It still has the same cough every now and then but not as much. It is still bothering me. My jets are 32/80 and the service department at the local BD seems to think that if I go to a 33 on the int jet it will not be right. I am not sure if I agree but I will be the first to tell you that I am not a professional mechanic but I usually get things figured out. So my question is do I try to put 2 of these K&N airfilter covers over the filter to reduce the ram air effect or do I try to go with the 33 jet? I could turn the spike filter up but I really dont like that placement. Any advice is a big help.

Thanks