It"s Baaack! Update

Energy One
So, I replaced the cam sensor again, this time from Wild Steedworx and touch wood, this seems to have done the trick with the motor dumping issues, hasnt done it in over a month with daily riding. I think the Ebay sensors must be junk because the first one I bought the bike wouldnt even run at all, the second lasted about 6 mos and this new one really makes the bike run solid, no flat spots, hesitation etc.
These bikes definitely have a mind of their own. Although its running strong, its developed another slight issue. After I set the Super G up according to S&S it runs fine, but now at an idle after running a while it sounds like freakin gunshots from the pipes about every 3-4 seconds, I scared the crap out of 2 old ladies sitting in the car beside me at a light!
I've tightened the exhaust manifold bolts, replaced the 2 vacuum port caps on the carb and cant seem to find any other issues.
Any ideas here?
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Did the backfire issue start after you adjusted the carb or did you adj the carb to try and fix the issue? How far out did you end up adjusting the idle mixture screw? If it only barks at idle back the adj out 1/8 to 1/4 and see if it helps. If it doesn't help put it back to where it was or go through the adj procedure again to make sure it's as good as it can be.
As you say Knock on Wood it's not the ignition failing again.
 
Mikeinjersey- the backfire issue only started after I made the carb adjustment, I have since reset the carb a couple of times but the problem is I cant get it to idle at all, I set the idle at 1000, it runs for a minute or 2 then drops off and stalls the engine. Very frustrating, the bike runs strong other than the idle issue so I dont believe its the cam sensor again or it would show up in hard running for sure. Ive never had this particular issue before. The idle adjustment screw is really finicky, barely make it move and it jumped to 1500-1700 in an instant. I think something is going on in the idle circuit, maybe needs new idle needle?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
"... the backfire issue only started after I made the carb adjustment..."
That would have helped, but I do not chase my tail when it comes to 14.7 vs Who's faster in?

"... I have since reset the carb a couple of times but the problem is I cant get it to idle at all..."
This be the net speak and who knows what else you didn't bring in kind of run around guessing what you did last and now this.

"I set the idle at 1000, it runs for a minute or 2 then drops off and stalls the engine..."
I see I am going to run out of gas or someone is beating it to the punch... is it 14.7 or gas entering sooner? Sounds like spark is there, gas is too, but loss of gas at idle? Where is the fight for the rush at the door?

"... the bike runs strong other than the idle issue so I dont believe its the cam sensor again or it would show up in hard running for sure. Ive never had this particular issue before..."
And that's the fun part on this side of the screen, an on your side... 'Very frustrating.' Yeah, if only I could spray WD-40 from here before it becomes page 32.

"... The idle adjustment screw is really finicky, barely make it move and it jumped to 1500-1700 in an instant.[/quote]
I could be completely off base on this, but sure sounds like, sniffs like, can't tell for sure sitting here with a new flip style spray tube.

"... I think something is going on in the idle circuit, maybe needs new idle needle?"
Pull it out and see. If it has a deep groove up the V of the needle, carb body is junk. Again, I can only be wrong every step is just guess at it and say... 'well it was fine all this time before I touched the carb and that idled like perfect?" That's my info I have is that assumption of the forensics. Can't be a bad needle unless you gorilla'd the needle tip going back and forth I have no clue? Beats me if you damaged finding idle that was not in need of who knows what mystery lurks?

Low/Main/Idle screw = Full Idle circuits are open. Bike Has To:
a. Starts and idles instantly. Choke on choke off it starts and even the choke starts it faster cold is that circuit is open too.
b. If applies, that squirt at the accel pump a few times starts and stalls all day are a bunch of circuits clogged, if not one only.
c. Idle screw is to lift the slide higher or open the butterfly under the jet hole openings. Has nothing to do with jetting per say. It would just idle faster and hang there.

Bike before After:
I choose my threads carefully because who cares, it's not the new sensor if you ran all day up to that thermo-zone and it cuts out so it's not ignition, unless you touched that in the cone? Say no so we are back to who feeds whom? You never touched the ign system is the guess.

Look at the plugs. Starting to blacken up or whiten up? There is no complaint about performance, but this low vac pull to who enters sooner? My guess is you moved gas with the needle move. My guess is who enters faster? Did gas override an air leak? Who entered the speed event sooner this time 1500+?

No matter how you think more air enters the chamber, you have to think on the valve's close; nature goes right back to 14.7. I just think magnetic is nature and that in motion and all that is the piston eventually stops at bottom dead center is dead right there = 14.7 is filled with who entered sooner... case closed or valve closed, whoever is sooner LOL.

And DATA is the output with limited input.

Signed,
Air To Fuel Ratio... "Go head, make my ratio'

__________________
This be home he here in a therapy session with HMAN. This one is for you.
 
Sven whew! I love your reading your thoughts, but damned if I understand them!
WD 40 is playbook 101 its not a vacuum leak.
The cam sensor being an output signal only to the ECH practically has nothing to do with this issue, at least not that Ive ever heard of.
Something is out of whack in the idle circuit, be it dirt or worn needle or ? once it goes to main jetting its fine.
I have owned this bike for 17 yrs, bought it new in 04 and its never seen the inside of a repair shop, Im a Mechanical Engineer and have had this bike down to pieces more than once. It just seems over the years the BD gets quirky now and again and I find input from others invaluable, somebody for sure has had this problem and thats what makes this forum great.
 

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
Sven whew! I love your reading your thoughts, but damned if I understand them!
WD 40 is playbook 101 its not a vacuum leak.
The cam sensor being an output signal only to the ECH practically has nothing to do with this issue, at least not that Ive ever heard of.
Something is out of whack in the idle circuit, be it dirt or worn needle or ? once it goes to main jetting its fine.
I have owned this bike for 17 yrs, bought it new in 04 and its never seen the inside of a repair shop, Im a Mechanical Engineer and have had this bike down to pieces more than once. It just seems over the years the BD gets quirky now and again and I find input from others invaluable, somebody for sure has had this problem and thats what makes this forum great.
Did you rebuild the carb before you did the S&S stock adjustments to it?
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Mikeinjersey- the backfire issue only started after I made the carb adjustment, I have since reset the carb a couple of times but the problem is I cant get it to idle at all, I set the idle at 1000, it runs for a minute or 2 then drops off and stalls the engine. Very frustrating, the bike runs strong other than the idle issue so I dont believe its the cam sensor again or it would show up in hard running for sure. Ive never had this particular issue before. The idle adjustment screw is really finicky, barely make it move and it jumped to 1500-1700 in an instant. I think something is going on in the idle circuit, maybe needs new idle needle?
Keep in mind the idle adjustment screw is different than the idle mixture screw. Drop the bowl, and clean it along with the intermediate jet. Be careful not to loose or forget to put back the ejector nozzle o-ring.
Not sure which adj procedure your following but I've had good success with this one.
 

Attachments

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
Keep in mind the idle adjustment screw is different than the idle mixture screw. Drop the bowl, and clean it along with the intermediate jet. Be careful not to loose or forget to put back the ejector nozzle o-ring.
Not sure which adj procedure your following but I've had good success with this one.
Yeah it sounds like he needs to take the bowl completely apart and chem-dip everything
 
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