ISO RR MOUNT BRACKET FOR MEAN MOTHER. 2006 K9

Energy One

k9kelley

Member
I'm looking for a rear exhaust mount for the Super Trapp Mean Mothers! The one I have now is chrome but black is ok.
 

k9kelley

Member
take it welding/ fabricating shop and have it repaired and paint it.
Yeah I plan to take it off and see if I can get it repaired but it looks like it's made from pot metal, not sure how that will hold up to welding. I was hoping to find one that was made out of real steel.
 

LUPHOLE

Well-Known Member
hi k9kelley; I had one fabricated from scratch using regular steel, painted it black and called it a day. as far as I know all of the oe brackets are chromed pot metal which just did not hold up for me. I suppose you could get it chromed somewhere but for me, the fabricated one got me back on the road, chuck
 

farmall

New Member
A weldment is a far stronger choice than that odd brittle casting and can be done in stainless as easy as carbon steel by any local weldor. Stainless polishes out like nickel, doesn't rust, doesn't pit like chrome, and in general is far superior (as is carbon steel) to the original part. I'd use round stock for appearance to bridge the plates unless you really like square stock but either will do (and cost may depend on what scrap your weldor or metal supplier has handy since ya probably don't want to buy a full length).
 
Any solid mount bracket will eventually break, more so if the bike is ridden hard, due to the excess stress from the solid mounted motor.
That is why BD went to the rubber mounted brackets in later years.
Two angled brackets with a set of Vibration-Damping Sandwich Mounts between them is the best solution.
 

farmall

New Member
Cast aluminum is weak and cracks and sheet metal mounts permit flex (and crack) and rubber mounts permit more flex but don't crack the mount. They do crack pipes now and then because they allow the pipe to whip. There is more than one way to control pipe position. The alloy cracked because it was a bad idea to use it for that shape under that load in the first place. OTOH the old heavy tubing pre-rubbermount Harley exhaust mounts rarely fail and usually due to owners leaving the hardware loose. (I use all-steel lock nuts with anti-seize and don't have that problem.)

Unless the drivetrain is also rubber mounted flex is cruel to pipes because it permits movement relative to the engine which of course is solidly connected to the header flanges.. The exhaust needs to be controlled in unison with the drivetrain be it solid or rubber mounted. When I discarded the infamous old Thunderheader pipe cracking Barry mount (great mounts used as intended on aircraft and military vehicles) I fabbed a solid mount from plate and rod to use the same holes as bagger exhaust brackets. You could lift my (rubbermounted bouncy drivetrain harder on exhausts than a solid mount) FXR by the mount and it wouldn't fail. The rods are solid, not tubing. It's not particularly heavy (the plate is from the Thunderheader mount). I ran it for a couple of years before teardown for powder coating.

Speed Kings mount example with a much longer arm: https://www.speed-kingscycle.com/products/speed-kings-fxr-thunder-header-bracket?variant=33193068295

If you use 3/16''-1/4" thick steel and 9/16"" or larger round bar that mount won't crack. I see no markings on the bolt heads and would replace with Grade 8 bolts. If you want to run stainless the Alloy Boltz owner is easy to work with and could match to an ARP high grade stainless bolt or you can do that yourself. This bracket won't crack with a sledge hammer and it's under much heavier load than the cracked example:
 

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farmall

New Member
Post edit time expired. The OUTBOARD plate is from the Thunderheader mount. Inboard plate was handy scrap.
 
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