Bigdaddy08
Member
My 08 ridgeback is slow on startup and I am wandering if a thunder heart ignition may help my battery is only 4 months old. It happens when it’s cold. Any suggestions
Ignition
- Thread starter Bigdaddy08
- Start date
No, an ignition will not help spin the crank faster, nor start faster. Think about it. Cold contracts, heat expands. Now think gasoline. Solid/liquid/gas. It's cold but not that cold to freeze gas to a solid. Cold condenses liquid, heat expands to a gas. Think cold fog with limited visibility, or a hot clear day.
Now think of the carb emitting the same spray, but when it exits out the carb and hits that cold intake port, cold head, it fires off liquid droplets, not a foggy mist. That recondensing of the fuel can't fire like a domino falling on each other like a mist. It's hit and miss, so it stalls more, thus harder starting when cold. But each fire, and that's hundreds of times warming up before it stalls, it heats the chamber. Then when the still cold fuel comes in, it heats and expands. All of a sudden the bike warms up all smooth running, the carb needs no adjustment, the bike lights right off when warm, right?
So in the cold?:
Fuel is not in a warm mist environment until warm parts heat the air.
Battery is not efficient when cold is why the higher CCA for colder temp areas around the world... where in Hawaii you don't need a higher CCA battery.
It's science not a component problem. Bike runs tits otherwise I assume, right?
Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
Now think of the carb emitting the same spray, but when it exits out the carb and hits that cold intake port, cold head, it fires off liquid droplets, not a foggy mist. That recondensing of the fuel can't fire like a domino falling on each other like a mist. It's hit and miss, so it stalls more, thus harder starting when cold. But each fire, and that's hundreds of times warming up before it stalls, it heats the chamber. Then when the still cold fuel comes in, it heats and expands. All of a sudden the bike warms up all smooth running, the carb needs no adjustment, the bike lights right off when warm, right?
So in the cold?:
Fuel is not in a warm mist environment until warm parts heat the air.
Battery is not efficient when cold is why the higher CCA for colder temp areas around the world... where in Hawaii you don't need a higher CCA battery.
It's science not a component problem. Bike runs tits otherwise I assume, right?
Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
What battery do you have in it. Just because it is new, doesn't mean it is good.
Bigdaddy08
Member
I live in Texas so it’s in the 70s when it gets warm it’s ok but weird thing riding home today it started acting like it was running out gas switched over to reserve and filled it up then it did it again. Stalled twice but restarted I wander off the iridium plugs I put in were the wrong way to go
Bigdaddy08
Member
What is the gap on plugs for the 117 I can’t find it in the manual
knothead
Second Chance Customs
.040".... i have ran iridium im not a fan......ngk or champion for me..
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Just a thought, considering your symptoms. I agree with Sven loose cables or possibly battery not charging properly and gradually getting weaker.
Bigdaddy08
Member
Well I changed plugs and cleaned air filter and fuel filters and am trying everything even changed battery . It started up and ran good went down the road and when it got warm started doing it again cut off twice. I think the coil pack may be failing or breaking down when it starts getting hot. It’s the only thing that makes sense anyone ever had one do that
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Hi BD08, check out Bike cuts off after it warms up under the Technical Forum. Your issue sounds very similar. I have an 07 K9 and it would crap out very similar to the way you describe your failure. A new crank sensor was the fix for my bike.
Bigdaddy08
Member
Ok m I jersey I went back and read the thread and it does sound similar but according to it you have a fuel injected and mine is carb so are they the same and the other question is where is it located at I am still learning my way around this bike and hope you don’t think it’s a dumb question. I did download the pdf with the complete 08 manual but couldn’t find it in there either
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
I have a carburetor on my K9 but it would make no difference. The crank sensor is the first component to the right of the oil filter looking from the front of the bike. This is a pic of one. If you decide to get one you may be able to shop a better price. I know mine was cheaper but can't remember where I got it. Easy to replace.
FYI Mr Wright has some great manuals and wiring diagrams you can download if you follow the link in Post #3
FYI Mr Wright has some great manuals and wiring diagrams you can download if you follow the link in Post #3
Attachments
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Just a reminder. Check that your battery connections are good and read it while its running to make sure it's being charged properly. Should read 12.8 + not running and be 13.8 to 14.8 volts while running A good battery and connections are critical on these bikes.
Bigdaddy08
Member
Well I have tried all I can think of new plugs cleaned crank sensor battery is fully charged and charges when running. The problem starts when you start to go and it starts spitting and seems like it’s missing. It’s getting fuel and air filter is new and clean. I am baffled I guess it goes to the shop.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
As you suggested in Post # 9 the coil could be failing. Also the crank sensor could be clean as a whistle and still fail when it heats up. Unfortunately when a problem is intermittent the only way to be sure is to swap out the components separately with known good parts.
Bigdaddy08
Member
Wanted to try and avoid throwing parts at it till one sticks but may not have a choice. Is there a way to test the crank sensor?
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Not that I know of. I would double and triple check all wiring to the Ignition unit, Coil and Crank sensor before going to the dealer . A loose or dirty connection to any of the components of the ignition system could cause the issue without any of the parts being bad. Does it just die or does it sputter and misfire? Do you need to wait a while for it to cool down before it starts again?
Bigdaddy08
Member
It starts missing and sputtering then when u try to engage clutch to take off it dies and sometimes backfires I checked all connections and pulled coil pack and cleaned ends just seems to be getting worse which leads me to think something electrical is breaking down just simply wierd
Hey Big, you should read your complaints from where I'm sitting. Simply weird is an understatement. So, I'm going to add my wrinkle to it. It's obvious I'm not familiar with the product, meaning, is this a single ground wire, or is this, 'all grounds lead to one 'junction' point?
Notice all components cycle thru their jobber, i.e., coil, ehc, crank sensor. Mode LED's are not in CEL where lights are blinking, right? Clean LED readout is the assumption. So the weird think goes something like this... IF... this is like some wire harness grounds that have J-points, pull back the coping some and see if the bunched wires are cooked/cooking almost/to wrinkled plastic that covers the copper wiring.
Or... remove said ground wire or the J-point's eye ring, scrape new metal from how old is this bike? So ground integrity 'sometimes' need addressing due to electrolysis, 'especially [goes green is the] copper' eyes, wire, wire ends, pins, female connector ends, etc.
Last dead end before throwing parts at it.
Edit: Age is my connector pins goes green. So a random check is to pull said connectors apart, start with the crank sensor, look down into the pins and look for green electrolysis. If so, dip the whole connector end in vinegar, spoon a tea size amount of baking soda, and wait for the bubble to subside. Rinse with water, blow/air dry and reconnect. Test ride to another dead end road.
Notice all components cycle thru their jobber, i.e., coil, ehc, crank sensor. Mode LED's are not in CEL where lights are blinking, right? Clean LED readout is the assumption. So the weird think goes something like this... IF... this is like some wire harness grounds that have J-points, pull back the coping some and see if the bunched wires are cooked/cooking almost/to wrinkled plastic that covers the copper wiring.
Or... remove said ground wire or the J-point's eye ring, scrape new metal from how old is this bike? So ground integrity 'sometimes' need addressing due to electrolysis, 'especially [goes green is the] copper' eyes, wire, wire ends, pins, female connector ends, etc.
Last dead end before throwing parts at it.
Edit: Age is my connector pins goes green. So a random check is to pull said connectors apart, start with the crank sensor, look down into the pins and look for green electrolysis. If so, dip the whole connector end in vinegar, spoon a tea size amount of baking soda, and wait for the bubble to subside. Rinse with water, blow/air dry and reconnect. Test ride to another dead end road.
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