Idle air control replacement
- Thread starter 08mastiff
- Start date
08mastiff
Active Member
Idle is all over the place, mostly had to give it throttle when stopped in neutral because it dropped too low and would stall if I didn't. The check engine light would come on but was ok when I was moving. I had the tank off, pump and regulator are good (even swapped them out with a spare I had to double check), filter is good, no loose liner pieces in tank. Flushed out the fuel injectors. Put it back together and my idle issue still persisted. Took IAC out and cleaned it. It ran better but when I would pull the clutch in it would idle high until I came to a full stop. Then it would idle normal but the good news is the initial low idle problem went away. Just a guess but I think the solenoid is sticking. I should check for maybe a vacuum leak too.. Thanks for your reply btw.
When the light goes off fandango, it says from wire end to wire end, there is no open, short, is the integrity of the wiring loop. Have to read that light saying, it's not the black box if it can code, make the bike run, and shuts the light off, dan you know fandango, it's not the sensor either.
So you figured it out, being a stuck plunger sticking. Wires inside the sensor are not open or short. This is where you understand analog means many, and digital means a single digit. Where 4 pins at the sensor show 1(+), 2(-), 3signal in, 4signal out.
Signal out of the sensor are many. Black box receives this as 00110010101 or analog. Plunger is moving up and down constantly.
Signal out of the sensor being one of the pins being open or short sends nothing, meaning 000000 or the single digit over and over.
Where jwooky says those sensors are this side of bulletproof, being you cleaned it up enough to shut the light off while it runs. The sensor shows good. Might a change of gas to maybe Shell or Chevron with a detergent cleaner that unsticks the gummy buildup of a bike long in the tooth, maybe sits during winter, and all that does is clogs up the jets with gas left in the carb blow.
For the idle to return via cleaning robustteass, show me a vacuum leak if idle returns?
So you figured it out, being a stuck plunger sticking. Wires inside the sensor are not open or short. This is where you understand analog means many, and digital means a single digit. Where 4 pins at the sensor show 1(+), 2(-), 3signal in, 4signal out.
Signal out of the sensor are many. Black box receives this as 00110010101 or analog. Plunger is moving up and down constantly.
Signal out of the sensor being one of the pins being open or short sends nothing, meaning 000000 or the single digit over and over.
Where jwooky says those sensors are this side of bulletproof, being you cleaned it up enough to shut the light off while it runs. The sensor shows good. Might a change of gas to maybe Shell or Chevron with a detergent cleaner that unsticks the gummy buildup of a bike long in the tooth, maybe sits during winter, and all that does is clogs up the jets with gas left in the carb blow.
For the idle to return via cleaning robustteass, show me a vacuum leak if idle returns?
08mastiff
Active Member
So, I just cleaned it again this morning and sprayed some lubricant in there to soak a bit. After work I will go home and see what it does. I do change gas often when I fill up, but never at a no name gas station. I put the startron enzyme fuel treatment in with every tank full as well. Maybe I'll try the seafoam one of these days. I have 39,000 miles but I will check for vacuum leak because I had the intake and injectors off. Maybe something didn't seal well (even tough I was careful). I'm am running my stock ecu now but I also do have the after market replacement I bought from Curtis a while back. Obviously I am EFI, so no jets or carb bowl to worry about. Thanks.
Jwooky
Well-Known Member
Definitely check for vacuum leaks. I would also check fuel pressure (schrader valve under tank)
Do you have Protune so you can check faults? That will generally help lead to cause.
I have had a few times my bike had trouble idling. Every time it was debris in the fuel system.
I have a 9V battery cable rig I use to open the fuel injectors so I can spray through carb/brake cleaner. I also pull and clean or replace the screens in them during the process.
I always replace the fuel line and fuel pump filter while apart too
Do you have Protune so you can check faults? That will generally help lead to cause.
I have had a few times my bike had trouble idling. Every time it was debris in the fuel system.
I have a 9V battery cable rig I use to open the fuel injectors so I can spray through carb/brake cleaner. I also pull and clean or replace the screens in them during the process.
I always replace the fuel line and fuel pump filter while apart too
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Hoook the system up to Protune and see what it says and displays.
When I had a similar problem it turned out to be a bad TPS (throttle position sensor) that would jump around when the bike was at idle, once moving the thing would be fine.