I recon it’s my turn

Energy One

GaChopper

Member
I recon it’s turn to ask for advise or some help with my 2004 RT Chopper. I have a few questions and then I have a few issues that I believe I’ll need some hands on help sorting out.
1. It has a stripped rear caliper bleed screw and I didn’t know if it’s a good idea to tap the caliper for a larger bleed screw? Or should I just replace the caliper.
2. Also on the right forward control/master cylinder has a small1/8 SS pin, it has enlarged hole it rides in to the point I need to replace some parts for it or maybe replace entire forward control. It is what it is and those two issues I can handle with some advice about issue #1.
What I really need help with (before I start working with the brake issues) is she won’t run. She turns over strong and occasionally back fires but will not run. I’ve rebuilt the carb back original specs but still she won’t run. She was parked because of the brakes bleed screw then life got busy so she was parked a lot longer than she should have. She did run before I stripped the bleed screw.
I’ll include a pic of the ECU but I don’t know what a pic can help show? Other than the ECU seems to be a common issue with Big Dogs and I don’t know if this is the original ECU but I think it is?
2. I changed the fluids before I found out she wouldn’t run, so as she sat for a while she dumped all the oil out on my garage floor. I was confused with that but I change the oil again so I could top off the oil and after she sat, I found she had again dumped all the oil on the floor. Any idea why and what needs to be done to stop her from dumping her oil?

I’m in need of a shop close to Savannah Ga that knows something about Big Dogs that I can depend on before I have another divorce on my hands...

thanks is advance for any help.
 

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mchllacey

Member
On issue 1 if it was mine I would first call the manufacturer of the caliper. This may be something common they have a fix for if they are the same as 06 or 07 dogs I believe joker machine made the calipers. They may also be able to do the machining for you. Or have a machine shop drill and tap it. Then I would put something round & flat with a hole that the tip of the bleeder clears but the liquid hole dose not pass in the hole screw it down to make sure it sealed by looking at the impression it makes. Not saying you cant do it at home but stopping should be anyone that rides first concern errors could end badly. The tap used should be called a bottom tap no pointed end means more threads in holes with no exit.
Number 2 is difficult to answer with my limited imagination and no pic.
Number 3 if it ran when parked my guess would be old plugs, wires, or connections to the coil. Easy way to test for spark to the plug is a couple of pieces of vacuum tubing all real vac tubing has carbon in it (test with multimeter for
continuity )cut a piece long enough to show about an inch while connecting at plug and wire. Crank engine and use a test light touching exposed vac tubing it lights you have spark. If one is dull and the other bright replace plug wires. Hope this helps others on this sight work on dogs for a living and or fun , with more experience on them than I have. I do work on my own but my mechanical experience is mostly automotive mechanic for a couple of decades.
Good luck. I forgot to mention it should be a test light that does not have its own power to light. There are too many different types of lights so I'm not positive they would work in this situation.
 
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GaChopper

Member
Thanks for sharing some knowledge with me. I’ll contact the manufacturer about the bleed screw-caliper situation. I agree 100% that’s its way more important to stop than go, so I went ahead and ordered a new forward control with the master cylinder just to be 100% sure about it. . Also when I take it back down to install the new one, I’ll get some pics of the 1/8” pin and the issue I have, just to share.
Thanks again
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
To drill it out bigger is to have a V taper so the screw interlocks with the same matching dimension/angle. So no, you can't drill and tap larger. Yes, you can try to thin the thread walls of the bleeder screw, and easy-out the nipple and replace it. That or replace the caliper.

About the electrics, might want to have it tested.
 

GaChopper

Member
To drill it out bigger is to have a V taper so the screw interlocks with the same matching dimension/angle. So no, you can't drill and tap larger. Yes, you can try to thin the thread walls of the bleeder screw, and easy-out the nipple and replace it. That or replace the caliper.

About the electrics, might want to have it tested.
I think because of safety aspects I’ll replace the caliper like I did the master cylinder.
Can you suggest a company that I can contact to test the ECU. I can get anything done for an auto but I haven’t tinkered with scooters since they stopped making 2 strokes. Thanks for the reply.
 

mchllacey

Member
I think because of safety aspects I’ll replace the caliper like I did the master cylinder.
Can you suggest a company that I can contact to test the ECU. I can get anything done for an auto but I haven’t tinkered with scooters since they stopped making 2 strokes. Thanks for the reply.
One of the members that's been here a long time Curtis( Kaptin America ) used to test them not sure if he still does but I've been here about ten years and have never heard anything but good.
I'm sure there are others here also thats just who I would recommend.
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