I have gas in oil

razorrau

Member
I just changed all my fluids and when I started it I noticed that I got smoke coming off my exhaust ports and a liquid dripping off of it which was gas. My friend told me to check the oil and see if it smells like gas and it did, he thinks of float might be stuck or overflow tube is clogged. Does anybody know what the problem could be, how can gas get in the oil?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Your buddy was right.

What parts are causing excessive flow? A float hardly needs adjusting, unless the indent in the tang is that deep, you compensate by lifting the tang, which pushes the needle up higher.

With bowl off, raise float so you close the needle. Turn petcock on. Does it stop? Yes. Then no problem with needle and seat.

No, it keeps flowing. Then pull float pin, drop needle, purge seat by opening the petcock and flush said debris. Reinstall the float and needle. Did the flow stop? Yes. Then it was something caught in between needle and seat.

No, it kept flowing. Then it's now the needle and seat. Why? Because you physically forced the needle up the seat and not as soft as a float lifting in the static. There was no debris and the needle is as straight up the taper as it gets.

Last is petcock flow. So first thing is drop the bowl and let the float drop. Is there flow? No. Then, check the float height. How? Liquid remains horizontal, so all you do is make the float as level and as horizontal and turn the petcock on. Does the fuel flow? No. Drop the float ever so little until there is flow. Did the float stop the flow once the float looked horizontal? Yes. Do not adjust the float.

Got it figured out?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Yes.

Do not strip the screws in the back or remove the carb. Unless you use say a 1/4 drive so you have the L [handle-horizontal and screwdriver head-vertical = Leverage] is that extra leverage. Either that or a small vice grip on the screwdriver.

You act as a torsion bar and push up on the head of the screw, you load and unload the head. This way, all you are doing is walking out of the head of the screw. This torsional way is by backing off, you move down in the recess again. Then all of a sudden this torsion ends in a 'Snap' and now you've go it figured out to keep the carb on, you trick those screws out.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Or, lets say this is a used bike? Someone did drop the bowl and the heads have the phillips knocked out of it?

This is where we should take the carb off. Turn the carb upside down and with a small punch with a flat face or a tiny ballpeen hammer, tap around the head so you bring the + back into looking like a phillips head again.

Take the screwdriver and hammer the driver into the slot so it's real tight again. Then run the L formation with the vice grip or 1/4 drive. It's all about load/unload with that tiny jewel of a device.
 

BadDawg Bill

Well-Known Member
I open up the gas petcock and the float stops the flow, now what do I do?
When ever you stop turn off the gas It's a pain but if you've ever come out to the bike and a big pool of gas is on the ground and you're out of gas you will understand. Even a float set right will hang once in awhile and dump your gas. It also floods the motor with gas and that goes down into your oil.

I always run some carb/injector cleaner every other gas fill to keep the float clean. The dollar store has it for half price.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
All this measuring and dropping of the bowl and be all precision and all that turns out to be is you against nature.

1. Look at the gas etching of the dry side of the float and the wet side.
2. This is the horizontal way the float sits is nature vs. horizontal.
3. Now what? Now, I make my float as horizontal to the bottom of the carb, meaning, where the bowl fits up and hits all the way around the bowl is the bottom of the carb, right? That is our measuring eyeballing guide line in the horizontal.
4. I now turn the petcock on, drop my float from a horizontal position or my gas etching line [if this bike is seasoned].
5. I should start flowing as soon as I drop from horizontal watching my carb line vs. the drop.
6. I flow from horizontal, look at the tang the needle rests on.
7. I first have to make sure both of my floats are even. One rises sooner, see the level line being cut off you wrinkle that tang moving it?
8. I now know my float is even, my tang is all I move. Move tang up if it leaks when level.

What happens next is make a way to let the float hang closed and walk away from it. If there is a leak with the needle up, then it may flow slow, so sitting there waiting for the gas to flow is the petcock has to be on. So technically, we should have no flow if that needle is sent home and with enough pressure not to move the floats from getting out of line.

Then the next question is. Hey, do you walk away from the bike and never turn the petcock off? That gas is still going to flow with petcock not turned off. Nature again is going to have pressure above that needle the more that is in that tank.

Get it? Stand at the bottom of a 12ft pool. Look up. If I filled a bucket on your head with water, added another, and another, how much weight are you holding? So if we had less bucket on your head, would there be less pressure on that needle if the tank was less filled? See that column of pressure on the tip of that needle think.

He comes back: Well, the float stops right at horizontal. I guess I have no fuel leak short of me never turning the cock off since I have this habit walking away. I'm assuming here if the pet to needle to seat to float is if I float that question to you.
 

razorrau

Member
I understand what you're saying, I have on the bikes for 5 years now & I have never shut the gas off and never had this problem. I have the bowl propped up with the gas open and going to see if the gas leaks out. Could the problem been that there was debris stuck in the float and then that flooded the engine?
 

razorrau

Member
also those two little ball bearings that are on the bottom of the bowl are both of them supposed to have a spring underneath them? when I was taking it apart everything fell on the floor and I spent a half hour looking for it so I wasn't sure if it's supposed to be another spring under the ball bearing.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I have never shut the gas off and never had this problem.
Put the carb back together. We're done. Lets diagnose the float:

1. If say the float was heavy with liquid, we'd have more than just gas down the port. It would leak out the air cleaner too. So lets assume the float is dry. a. Brass floats can be bounced lightly up and down without removing.
b. Remove the float, shake it near the ear and remove all doubt.
c. If this is the black phenolic style float, it's going to feel heavy or weight it now, let it sit in the sun for the day and weigh it later in the day. No change, no need to find another to match weight if it did not change.

2. If say we have the opposite side of the needle is the needle plunger, this is hammering one crater in the tang of the float.
a. I'm standing on a flat floor, the ceiling is low enough I can curl my knuckles and hold the ceiling up if I want. I take my KISS shoes off, I now can't touch the ceiling but with my middle fingers is that pressure on the ceiling.
b. If I walked into a crater, am I farther from the needle's spring pressure as I am like the ceiling distance?
c. That's about the only think I can thing of, I reverse the engineering at the crater, I bend the tab as even as if lifting the tang to remove the depth of the crater; which pushes the spring; which fights that pool depth in proportion; which if you move the tang; would this stop the flow you didn't have?

3. If say you had to fiddlefuk the float, go past, bend the float to the other getting that tab just right you still are at the door of the 'Penultimate.'
a. I need to get into the habit of turning the cock off each time that engine stops.
b. Repeat after me...
c. No one listens to turtle, no one listens to turtle, [tap your heel 3 times] No one listens to turtle.

Signed,

NOLTT
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
What kind of carb is this? I need a blowout of the parts or a photo of the bowl and where you think this ball and spring go. Are we talking a choke lever, pumper carb, what?
 

razorrau

Member
there is a little cap on a bottom of the carb where the rod from the throttle comes down to and there is too little ball bearings inside there and I had one had a spring on underneath the ball bearing and I didn't know if there's a spring underneath the other one.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Say the one ball that is locked in, they use this a drilling channel [angle feeding] but once the hole is drilled, they use a ball and then collapse the metal over the ball. So are there uniformed divots that sort of lock this ball in place? Don't worry about that one.

The other is how it's designed as in, it goes together one way. So can I find the rod with spring coil shadows on the shaft? No? Then can I see a shinny spot where the tip of the rod rests on the end? Yes? So then, plunger hit ball, ball hits spring.

Next would be is to see if the ball hits the bowl first and that is to see if that ball has a place to sit and it's shinny there and concave for a ball too. Then the spring rides on the tip of the rod, the spring holds the ball down on that opening if shinny, concave, small enough for a ball to sit down there. Make sense?
 

razorrau

Member
the o ring on the left has a little spring in it, the one on the right is the one I'm not sure of, so I was not sure if it fell out. The hole on the right is half the depth of the one on the left, so that is why I'm thinking that there was no spring there.
 

razorrau

Member
it turns out after letting it sit for a couple hours the gas was overflowing the float, the needle must not be sitting properly.
 
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