how to test power to ignition module please

Energy One

mml03102

Active Member
I searched the threads and I could find an aswer but I have no light on my thunder heart ignition, I bought a cam sensor from bigdogpartskingpin but still no light and of course it turns over but doesn't start.

I spoke with Larry at thunder heart and he said test and see if you have power coming from your coil and if you do its you ignition mod.

Can someone please tell me how to do this I haven't a clue , don't even know where it is,lol pictures would certainly help.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Basic wiring is intimidating for sure. But think of each jobber as a battery. A key switch is a jobber. A coil is a jobber. A stator is a jobber.

Keep thinking the jobber is like a battery. We have to hook a (-) up to ground and the other jobber's wire to (+) is to make the light turn on, the coil goes hot we turn the key on.

No matter how I explain it, was there a wire in and wire out of a light bulb? Yes. When there is a toggle switch is just call it a key, is that jobber just having a wire in and wire out it goes off and on is the hot to ground? Yes. Is not the coil one type of jobber that there is only one wire in and one wire out is how you hook up a coil, sans you know the two plug wires coming out of that coil goes to the plugs. But the idea is that jobber is WIRE IN and WIRE OUT is the JOBBER.

The next puzzle to look for is who is hot and whom be cold? Usually, green is grass for ground meaning. Black is ground if you dig deep enough, things go black. So you are looking for your (-) wires to see if they have integrity or are snug to the frame or a [ground] junction on the bike somewhere?

The other side of that color scheme is think about how white might represent how hot (+) that wire could represent, as would red is the wire that is hot to the touch. Here are your jobber wires that have to be hot from the battery via the key switch. You are going to need a tool to know who is hot and who is not?

You want a pointer style so you can stab into the wire covering. This also can back probe right at the connectors as they are hooked up. This way you can tell who is hot on the one connector side, then you probe the other side that should turn hot too and oops, no lighty.

You now can see if the other side of the connection is:

1. Corroded so as to stop connections continuing.
2. Male to female wires are secure but not touching internally between prongs.
3. A wire was pulled out or hanging outside the other side of the connector and oh look Moe, no need for the test light probe. So the question is...

... What was the last thing you did to the bike? I usually turn the key off after a ride and it sits. How could it not have spark if say the gas is so stale from sitting, and so is the crap in the carb, or say the injector is varnishitstuck?

a. My bike may turn over, have gas and spark, but sure as shit is I'm going to eliminate what the compression reading is so I do not chase my tail.

b. Do I have spark is the next move? I want to see if spark is present. I have a spare/new plug around, which is to say, I shove it up the plug cap and ground the plug to the head. I tap the starter so I hear at least it crank over twice is once is enough you see spark or not?

c. I have both spark and compression is one amigo left. If my bike sits, my gas decomposes into a green varnish after awhile. It will clog any fuel from leaving the carb. I may not have a spark or a compression problem but a fuel problem.

We see the 3-wire walk as well as the 3-amigo walk? Make it fun. Frustration is fun or it wouldn't be fun, right?

 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
On your ignition module there's a 3 and a 4 pin connector. If you unplug the 4 pin connector, turn on the key, press the RUN button, you should have 12VDC measuring from the red to the black wires on the bike side of the connector. :D

Dennis
 

DRBarnhart

Insert title here...
I spoke with Larry at thunder heart and he said test and see if you have power coming from your coil and if you do its you ignition mod.
Sorry but I don't think "Larry" knows how a Big Dog is wired (or I might be misunderstanding where he's going with that!). Anyway, your coil and your ignition modules get their power from two different pins on the EHC.

So... you can do the check I already mentioned to see if the ignition module is getting power. To check if the coil is getting power... key ON, press RUN, and the coil should have 12VDC between the red and yellow wires. There is one exception to this! If the engine just happens to be at the point where the plugs should fire you may measure OVDC at the coil! If this is the case just turn the engine a little bit (all it takes is a little bump) and then you should have power....

Dennis
 

mml03102

Active Member
Thanks guys , Im going to pick up a new meter tomorrow and when I disconnect the plug do I put the prongs inside the plug to test it? sorry this is my first time with wiring,lol
 

mml03102

Active Member
Took the connector off and tested it and I have power to the ignition module so what I understand it must be the module , called Donna at BIg dog parts king pin and shes going to look at the warehouse and get back to me tomorrow.
 

blacktopper

Active Member
I had a similar problem once. The red wire backed out of the just connector and the motor would not start. I pushed the wire back in and The engine started. Might try that and see if that is the problem.
 
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