MavMan
Member
Gas Man, what are the best jets and who can I get them from?
How to jet?
- Thread starter MavMan
- Start date
You can get them from Drag...
DS-0451
S&S High Range Jet Kit
S&S number might be 11-7271
As far as what jets... you need to establish what you have in your bike first. But if as you said they put a 76 in the main. I'm betting you have a .295 in the int jet. WAY too small for the pipes and air cleaner. I would put in a 31 then go from there.
DS-0451
S&S High Range Jet Kit
S&S number might be 11-7271
As far as what jets... you need to establish what you have in your bike first. But if as you said they put a 76 in the main. I'm betting you have a .295 in the int jet. WAY too small for the pipes and air cleaner. I would put in a 31 then go from there.
FrizzleFry
Member
The carb was adjusted as close as I could get it, as many good folks on here have shown how, but it was still stumbling / stuttering at times. I removed the hex screw without messing with the screw adjustments & it started running fine again.
Staffy
Active Member
Gas is always on the MONEY - worth a ton more than $0,02 - he's the "MAN" no KIDDING:up: :up: . (Have ended up with a 31 and 78 on my K9 - D&M filter, V&H 2-1 pipes) runs GREAT...95-100 MPH is a breeze - except with the cops around.:lol: :lol:
Only comment - At around 2500+ RPM when accelerating my bike would go into a "FLUX" before taking off....if I were to describe it - sucking wind for a moment before accelerating....changed the main from a 76 to a 78 - PROBLEM SOLVED...so maybe I used the incorrect term "cough" and "cough for the carb" ...but I'm sticking to my experience and success. Take it for what is worth $0.02...and good luck.
sun_bill1974
Active Member
Frizzle,
That is exactly what I went through...brought it back to the dealer even for the sputtering issue 2 weeks after I bought it and they found nothing. Finally called Big Dog and confirmed with D&M, and the verdict was to remove the hex screw....bike runs fine, but I still question if the jetting was done properly from the beginning. My bike is in the shop with another mechanic, and I've asked them to check the jetting....in all the years he's worked on bikes, he's never heard of removing a hex screw to allow more air-flow
...whose right and whose wrong? We'll wait and see....
That is exactly what I went through...brought it back to the dealer even for the sputtering issue 2 weeks after I bought it and they found nothing. Finally called Big Dog and confirmed with D&M, and the verdict was to remove the hex screw....bike runs fine, but I still question if the jetting was done properly from the beginning. My bike is in the shop with another mechanic, and I've asked them to check the jetting....in all the years he's worked on bikes, he's never heard of removing a hex screw to allow more air-flow
...whose right and whose wrong? We'll wait and see....Well not sure about always. Even a broke clock is right twice a day. :lol:
And this jetting can be tricky and hard to deal with over the internet. Hell its hard to deal with over the phone sometimes. Much of this is covered throughout the forum. Just as the below sniplet that I have posted MANY MANY times (went thru it this time, re-organized and worked on wording a bit) on how to make sure you adjust the carb. It is a combination of my expierence and the suggestions of others. It is also important that its adjusted properly, otherwise it may mask or elude other problems with jetting.
And remember jetting is not a rocket science nor is it 100% anyway. That is why they invented FI. Jetting on these S&S motors/carbs is something that will take constant tinkering till you get it right, then you'll change something like pipes or air cleaner and have to start all over. If you want "turn key" get a FI HD.
Sorry so long....
And this jetting can be tricky and hard to deal with over the internet. Hell its hard to deal with over the phone sometimes. Much of this is covered throughout the forum. Just as the below sniplet that I have posted MANY MANY times (went thru it this time, re-organized and worked on wording a bit) on how to make sure you adjust the carb. It is a combination of my expierence and the suggestions of others. It is also important that its adjusted properly, otherwise it may mask or elude other problems with jetting.
Gas Man said:To adjust the carb...
Some educational reading by S&S
S&S carb adjustments
S&S Shorty Carburetor Adjustments
S&S Carb Manual
http://www.sscycle.com/modules/instruction/uploads/51-1012.pdf
For my 2 cents...
with the bike warm...
(in=clockwise/out=counter)
if your idle is low... turn it up a bit...
now spin in the accel pump screw till it seats.
now spin in your fuel/air mix screw till the motor sounds like it wants to die
now spin it back out counting 1/4 turns. Do it slowly to give the motor/carb time to adjust. Do this till the motor sound like it wants to die on this end. Now you have counted those turns and you have say 2.5 turns. Spin it back in 1.25 turns. Or middle to almost dead on each end.
Now adjust your idle to 1,000 rpms on the tach.
Now spin it out 1.5 turns
Now with a few quick stabs at the throttle see if the rpms come up fast like you would think or if it kinda hesitates then takes off. If it does hesitate then spin the accel pump out another 1/4 turn and repeat till you get what sounds good.
If that don't fix the sneeze... you can spin out the accel pump a bit more... but anything over 2.5 turns MAY mean you need a larger intermiediate jet. This is a common debate.
Then re-adjust your idle to about 1,000 RPMs. Too low and it may die. Too high and it will clunk into first gear.
Now on the plugs... to test run the bike and see if the jets are good. This can also be done before you ever screw with your jets.
Check or replace plugs.
run the bike but keep the RPMS below 2500... then don't let it idle and kill the motor, check the plugs. That is to help check the int jet.
Then take it out and run it hard... keep the RPMs up and romp on it... then on a striaght patch of road with the RPMs up high (over 3k, or even higher) kill the motor with the OFF switch. Pull the plugs and check. that is to test the main jet.
The idea here is that your int jet runs from idle to about 2750. Then the main kicks in from there out. That's why we say your run mainly on your int jet. main is only for romps.
Use this GUIDE to read your spark plugs. The basic idea is white is lean, black is rich. What you are aiming for is a nice cinnamon color to the grounding tip.
To talk jetting...
One of the most common problems is...if you are expierencing a cough at highway speed 75mph +/- RPMs at about 2750... cough thru the carb... go up on int. jet.
To jet the carb... click these links for sniplets out of the how to
(post #2, 7-8)
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/13-how-remove-your-carb.html#post58
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/13-how-remove-your-carb.html#post63
Of coarse once you change the jets you will need to re-adjust the carb again.
And remember jetting is not a rocket science nor is it 100% anyway. That is why they invented FI. Jetting on these S&S motors/carbs is something that will take constant tinkering till you get it right, then you'll change something like pipes or air cleaner and have to start all over. If you want "turn key" get a FI HD.
Sorry so long....
