bruce
Active Member
This is my first how to so will be work in progress, I installed and rode to daytona ( bike week ) I love it so far. Go lock up on clutch, clutch lever very very easy if you want to use ( I do most of the time ) and being able to stop at anytime and not have to pull in clutch lever pretty cool, at stops put in first gear and then no need for clutch lever at all - just give throttle and off you go. As I have gotten older the clutch lever as become a litttle issue because of arthritis in my hands. Karata has come out with new aluminum clutch plates and so far working good, the old metal plates cut into hub assem. within first 1000 miles, I have over 2000 on new, I checked and no grooves at all ( time will tell ). Garry at EFM has been great, I had problems when I got to flordia and he made a whole new assem. and second day aired it to me, at his expense. Every time I have call he has been glad to help and if I had to leave message he returned call promptly. and he gives discount to veterans
to start remove outer bearing support
then remove hub and clutch assem. ( remember hub nut is reverse treads ) and you send hub and everything into EFM ( if you are going to change clutch plates brand etc. now is the time, because that make a difference in how he makes it ) also need to send in the outer bearing support plate for that hub, so he can make sure there is enough clearance - you will get back ready to install, clean things up and start. Re-install hub I used red lock tight on treads from trans. shaft and I then use air impact gun to tighten about 100 ft. lbs, be careful you do not have to over do it - 100 foot pounds is not really that much.
here is what you get back from EFM and the difference in the clutch plates from Karata
Now install EFM's assem. if you have outer bearing support like me and bolt on ( good time to check outer bearing in outer support and change if needed, I did, mine had some play I changed )
then adjust push rod for clutch lever if needed, when you pull in it should go almost all the way to grip. start bike in netural and take RPM's to 2000 to 2500 clutch lever will come out but should not come out all the way must have some play.
now try, put in 1st gear and give throttle and off you go, pull in clutch lever and make sure it disengages
there may be other adjustment you will have to do to get it just like you want, but Garry at EFM will be glad to help you I am sure.
Garry EFM 330-947-1700
to start remove outer bearing support
then remove hub and clutch assem. ( remember hub nut is reverse treads ) and you send hub and everything into EFM ( if you are going to change clutch plates brand etc. now is the time, because that make a difference in how he makes it ) also need to send in the outer bearing support plate for that hub, so he can make sure there is enough clearance - you will get back ready to install, clean things up and start. Re-install hub I used red lock tight on treads from trans. shaft and I then use air impact gun to tighten about 100 ft. lbs, be careful you do not have to over do it - 100 foot pounds is not really that much.
here is what you get back from EFM and the difference in the clutch plates from Karata
Now install EFM's assem. if you have outer bearing support like me and bolt on ( good time to check outer bearing in outer support and change if needed, I did, mine had some play I changed )
then adjust push rod for clutch lever if needed, when you pull in it should go almost all the way to grip. start bike in netural and take RPM's to 2000 to 2500 clutch lever will come out but should not come out all the way must have some play.
now try, put in 1st gear and give throttle and off you go, pull in clutch lever and make sure it disengages
there may be other adjustment you will have to do to get it just like you want, but Garry at EFM will be glad to help you I am sure.
Garry EFM 330-947-1700
Last edited:
