How to convert from chain to belt drive

[alhall88]

Next put in all the clutch plates into the rear hub while alternating between steel and fiber plates. And at this point I will say the instructions say to torque the rear assembly down then slip the front pulley and belt on together. I found this to be impossible. What I ended up doing was slipping the whole assembly on as a unit, that was I wasn't trying to stretch the shit out of the belt.

 

[alhall88]

Now using red loctite torque the clutch assembly to 80ft. lbs. and turn your compressor up and try to get at least 250 to 300 ft. lbs ont the front crank nut.Then the clutch diaprham torgue to 80 inch pounds.

 

[alhall88]

Next go ahead and put your starter back in and lets bolt the front support on.

 

[alhall88]

And basically you will just use your standard method of clutch adjustment. After that bolt on the 2 standoff's for the cover. Note since this I have changed to a 1 pc. design to hold the new chrome billet cover that I now have.

 

[alhall88]

Here is the standard cover

 

[alhall88]

And here is the cover I currently have, Its a chrome billet one instead of the stamped aluminum one.

 

[Raywood]

Very nice job! Al, how's that new clutch working? Any difference for the stock unit?

Thanks,
Ray

 

[P8RIOT]

Great content, Al - even though I'm not planning to put on a belt drive, it's always helpful to see just what's inside.

Kudos,
P8TRIOT

 

[alhall88]

Yeah Ray even though both were rivera pro clutches it seems the dry one hooks up much better and delivers more power to the ground. But this could just be me, I forgot to add that this setup has absolutly zero clutch chatter. This is an old how to but Blitzkreig was looking for it so I figured I would post it .

 

[Gas Man]

As always Al... that's freakin HOT!

 

[Raywood]

Yeah Ray even though both were rivera pro clutches it seems the dry one hooks up much better and delivers more power to the ground. But this could just be me, I forgot to add that this setup has absolutly zero clutch chatter. This is an old how to but Blitzkreig was looking for it so I figured I would post it .

These new clutches are sure different than the old 10 post springs that made so much noise.

Al, I'm more interested in that springer of yours and the ride. I told you before that I hated my old Paughco springer on long rides but the new ones have dampening so may have to rethink this through cause your's looks great.

Later,
Ray

 

[alhall88]

Ray so far no regrets on the springer I only have about 700 miles on it since the install. I think I'm going to post the ''how to install '' on this site as soon as I get some time. The ride is different thats for sure. The front end seems like its always working but remember I live in michigan the land of shitty roads. And although I haven't messed with it yet the shock preloads can be adjusted. Also they have a air ride system instead of springs and shocks as well, but thats an additional $700.

 

[Tim]

Great write-up Al, thanks for sharing. :2thumbs:

 

[chacha]

Al -- Any pointers on adjusting the belt tension on this primary. I'm installing it and the belt is loose from the recommended 3/4 inch play. I figure the two piece plate allows me to loosen the tranny and back it up a bit.

Thoughts? thanks.....

 

[alhall88]

Al -- Any pointers on adjusting the belt tension on this primary. I'm installing it and the belt is loose from the recommended 3/4 inch play. I figure the two piece plate allows me to loosen the tranny and back it up a bit.

Thoughts? thanks.....

Yes chacha the motor plate is a 2 pc. for that exact reason, it allows some trans movement forward and backwards to achieve that tension. I'm surprised yours was loose, mine is still a little tight but I haven't had any issues. I was hoping my belt would loosen up after a couple thousand miles but it hasn't. But are sure about that measurement? My instructions say no more than 1 inch or no less than 1/4 inch of play at the center of the belt.

 

[chacha]

Thanks Al --wanted to check since you did the how-to on this exact unit. Mine was loose and the bike was totally torn down and is being put back together so there's about 1.5 inches of play right now.

The recommended slack is out of the manual, but your instructions are pretty much the same -- Mine just said no more than 3/4 -- ain't exactly measuring something like this with a micrometer.

Thanks for the pointer -- had to fire the shop who was screwing up the rebuild and do it myself. Whole other story there that I'll post up with pics when she's back together.....

 

[alhall88]

Thanks Al --wanted to check since you did the how-to on this exact unit. Mine was loose and the bike was totally torn down and is being put back together so there's about 1.5 inches of play right now.

The recommended slack is out of the manual, but your instructions are pretty much the same -- Mine just said no more than 3/4 -- ain't exactly measuring something like this with a micrometer.

Thanks for the pointer -- had to fire the shop who was screwing up the rebuild and do it myself. Whole other story there that I'll post up with pics when she's back together.....

I hear ya I'm at a loss as to how some of these guys are staying in business, keep us posted because its almost June and I'm sure your starting to chomp at the bit.