Moespeeds
Well-Known Member
Everyone has been bitching about their EHC crapping out lately, and in the past year I have lost my horn and headlights. I let the horn go, and direct wired my headlights. Well in the past 2 weeks I had a couple of breakdowns with no power to the ignition system. I traced the problem to the EHC, and tonight decided to go ahead and bypass it completely. I don't have a stock ignition, I swapped it out for a Dyna 2000i in the spring, but the concept is the same, you simply have to determine which wire to the coil is bringing 12v from the EHC, and replace that wire with a reliable 12v switched source. I took a few pics below.
First you need to determine which of the wires on the coil is bringing power. mark them so you know what goes where, then disconnect them one at a time and test them. You will need to test them with the key in the "on" position, and hit "run" on the bars. This tells the EHC to send power to the coil. On my bike, power was coming in on the front coil.
Once I determined which wire was the hot, I used heat shrink tubing to cover up the old wire from the EHC. Who knows if you might need it later.
A new wire was run from the battery compartment, down through the harness, taking the same route as the stock ignition wires. I crimped off a terminal so it could be attached to the coil where the old EHC wire was. Leave the coil cover off until you are finished with everything, so you can test your new connection for 12v.
The last step is to run the wire in the battery compartment through a switch and a 15a fuse. You can pull power at this end from any connection that has continuous power when your key is on, but then you are once again at the mercy of the EHC. For instance if you power it from your running lights, and you lose that function on the EHC, you will lose your ignition. The other option is to run the line directly from the battery. The problem here is that in the unlikely event that someone figured out that your ignition is switched, they could turn it on and push start your bike (starter won't crank without the key in). A better way would be to replace bigdog's bullshit key switch with a regular 12v key, and just pull power from there. This would eliminate the need for a switch under the seat, and is the most secure way to do it, but I was too lazy for that tonight. Your "RUN" switch on the bars will no longer do anything, you will simply flip your switch under the seat instead.
This is a down and dirty, reliable, and cheap way to get by should the "run" function in your EHC fail. I hope this helps someone.
First you need to determine which of the wires on the coil is bringing power. mark them so you know what goes where, then disconnect them one at a time and test them. You will need to test them with the key in the "on" position, and hit "run" on the bars. This tells the EHC to send power to the coil. On my bike, power was coming in on the front coil.
Once I determined which wire was the hot, I used heat shrink tubing to cover up the old wire from the EHC. Who knows if you might need it later.
A new wire was run from the battery compartment, down through the harness, taking the same route as the stock ignition wires. I crimped off a terminal so it could be attached to the coil where the old EHC wire was. Leave the coil cover off until you are finished with everything, so you can test your new connection for 12v.
The last step is to run the wire in the battery compartment through a switch and a 15a fuse. You can pull power at this end from any connection that has continuous power when your key is on, but then you are once again at the mercy of the EHC. For instance if you power it from your running lights, and you lose that function on the EHC, you will lose your ignition. The other option is to run the line directly from the battery. The problem here is that in the unlikely event that someone figured out that your ignition is switched, they could turn it on and push start your bike (starter won't crank without the key in). A better way would be to replace bigdog's bullshit key switch with a regular 12v key, and just pull power from there. This would eliminate the need for a switch under the seat, and is the most secure way to do it, but I was too lazy for that tonight. Your "RUN" switch on the bars will no longer do anything, you will simply flip your switch under the seat instead.
This is a down and dirty, reliable, and cheap way to get by should the "run" function in your EHC fail. I hope this helps someone.
