How do YOU seat your pushrod? & Then the 1/4 out?

[XxTimeTO$lowdown36]

I've read on here that you just barely bottom out and then back a quarter turn. But I've also read on here that you just barely bottom out.....then tighten 2-3 more turns...and THEN back out your quarter....any got their 2 cents worth? Be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

I've read on here that you just barely bottom out and then back a quarter turn. But I've also read on here that you just barely bottom out.....then tighten 2-3 more turns...and THEN back out your quarter....any got their 2 cents worth? Be greatly appreciated.

These files will explain how it's done.

 

[XxTimeTO$lowdown36]

Thank you!

 

[XxTimeTO$lowdown36]

These files will explain how it's done.

Maybe I meant clutchrod? The one through the trans out to the clutch basket on primary side. ( Right side drive bike)

 

[Jwooky]

1/4 is too much. Maybe a 1/16.

 

[XxTimeTO$lowdown36]

I'll give it a whirl

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Maybe I meant clutchrod? The one through the trans out to the clutch basket on primary side. ( Right side drive bike)

OK , not the engine pushrods my misunderstanding. Keep in mind on the clutch pushrod adj. when you pull the clutch handle in you are pushing the Rod into the throw-out bearing which in turn releases the clutch plates and allows them to stop driving. You want the adjustment to be as tight as possible but still not have the bike tugging when at a stop with the clutch handle pulled in. It all depends on what "lightly touching" means to you. One persons touch may require 1/4 turn and another person may only back out 1/16. The cable , the ball & ramp and push rod are all involved in getting it to operate well.
The end result should be no tugging when the handle is pulled in and no slipping of the clutch under load. Be sure to have the 1/16 gap at the handle.
In your case, since you are slipping under heavy load, it seems you may not be backing out enough.

 

[Sven]

It's no 2 turns in and then out BS. It's slack at the cable, lever pulled in so as to take the slack out, turn the adjust screw in, as you feel the lever move out. the screw will stop turning, the lever will stop moving out, now take the adjust screw and turn it out 1/4 or less. Take the slack out of the cable till the lever touched the perch, and you can just see a slight gap as you take up the slack.

That says, free to spin the rod when hot, trigger is full throw, no creep, easy to find N.