How do you lock the primary/clutch to remove primary nut?

Energy One
Nomad2day

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
How do you lock the primary sprocket and clutch down so I can remove primary nut?
I take it the primary side nut is 1 5/16th and a standard pattern.
I have removed the clutch basket nut, left hand thread and 1 3/16th and put it on by hand for the moment.
The manual says something about a locking tool. Anyone tell me how to get around this or a pic of the locking tool so I can fab one.
Thanks in advance.....
:cheers: Neil :cheers:
 
PurpleDog

PurpleDog

Well-Known Member
Nomad, I had that problem too as I didn't have the proper locking tool either. What I did to get around the problem was to put the bike in gear while sitting on it. I applied the rear brake quite hard while torquing the fastners with my left hand to attain the proper torque.
That certainly wasn't ideal and perhaps others will toss out some better options; but it did work for me to get the proper torque on both. Incidentally, metric sockets fit better for my application despite an alternate thread on here indicating otherwise. Good luck.:up:

[well, that tip could be useless for ya if your wheel/swingarm etc is off]
 
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bdmridgeback

bdmridgeback

Low Down Chop Shop
I cut a 1x2 or 3 from a piece of wood trim that slid in tight on a angle and locked the front pulley to the rear pulley and kept it from turning. Basically the same thing the tool does.

Worked great
 
Nomad2day

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
Purpledog,
Thanks for the info. I have removed the rear tire and dropped the swingarm already though so I am not able to do as you say..

Al,
Do you have a pic of it in the gears? Is it locking the chain down? I have not pictured in my head how it would be placed in yet looking at it. Does it sit in a angle between the teeth? Tell me how it placed in it and I will measure the distances in mine and make one also..
I do not have a impact so I am trying to use a socket and breaker bar to remove it. I do not have compressed air at the house but could get a electric impact if I needed too.
Thanks,
Neil
 
CCRainman

CCRainman

Well-Known Member
Nomad, you can cut a piece of wood with 45 degree angles on opposite ends in jam it between the gears. Do a search and you'll find plenty of different tools. It's been discussed on here a while back. You can also use PVC piping.
 
Raywood

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
Neil, I used a 12" socket entension bar and wedged it in between the chain and sprokets. Worked great. I only removed the clutch hub when I put in the Bandit. Didn't remove the engine sproket.

:cheers: :2thumbs:
 
Throttle Jockey

Throttle Jockey

Don't Look at my Member!
I haven't had to do that in quite a while. What we do here is we take two red shop rags and wad them together. Jam them into the front sprocket between the sprocket and the primary chain. As you turn the nut the chain drive will lock up. The rag is soft and doesn't damage anything.

TJ
 
Nomad2day

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
For the record...
I went out and purchased a 230ft lb electric impact wrench to remove the primary nut. Mind you the swing arm is hanging so no rear tire is on the bike and I have removed the clutch hub nut already as well. It is just turned on by hand. Did not lock down anything just put the 33mm impact socket on it and hit the trigger to see what would happen. Removed the nut without any hoopla... Just came on off. Thanks for those who said to use one.

Yes I used a impact 33 mm. Yes I purchased a 1 5/16 6 point socket that was 3/4 in drive and a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter. The 1 5/16, 6 point socket fit great too.

On the clutch basket nut, both a 30 mm or a 1 3/16th socket will fit fine as well. Left hand threads here.

Now back to contining to dis-assemby of the bike....:2thumbs:
Neil
 
G

Gas Man

Cool isn't cheap
Calendar Participant
Yeah those sizes sound about right... I have used metric and standard on it... just depends what you have available.
 
F

Face

New Member
The Jim's tool is said to work on all primarys, available from Drag Specialties, part number DS-198635. Suggested retail is $40.95.
 
Nomad2day

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
Raywood said:
How far are you going to take it down?

:cheers:
Click to expand...
All the way down for the winter. Going to do all the bearings, neck, wheel, swing arm and such, fork oil on the inverted forks and all the main systems.
Eliminate the EHC, polish out the motor and pull the transmission out in one piece and send it to Big Dog for inspection or Baker. Maybe change out the stator while I am there. I would like to go with a Bandit Super Clutch when all goes back together. I kinda sound like Jake some don't I. The chrome is getting scratched up in it's old age but it is ridden so it needs some care.
Maybe pull the back tire off while the fenders are off and stick a car tire on to see what it is like cruising down the road.
Was hoping to do some paint this winter but I am holding off at the moment. Wish I could do some powder coating on the jugs but they are already diamond cut. Do not know if it can be coated without messing up the diamond cut.
Thought about doing a AC/DC tribute bike seeing how it is black already and have been trying to get permission from them to no avail so far. They rock...
It has spent way to much time in the shops during riding season so it is all getting done this winter and finishing it next winter...:2thumbs:
I just need to contact BDM about the tranny seeing how it will be out of the frame here soon in one piece...
 
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Slinger2

Slinger2

Active Member
Throttle Jockey said:
I haven't had to do that in quite a while. What we do here is we take two red shop rags and wad them together. Jam them into the front sprocket between the sprocket and the primary chain. As you turn the nut the chain drive will lock up. The rag is soft and doesn't damage anything.

TJ
Click to expand...
I pretty much do the same.
I just put a big socket in the rag.
works better than most of the stuff I have heard about before.:cheers:

 
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