Hot Rod is Back

[Little-Boo]

Well I picked up my bike yesterday and it's a huge improvement from the original state. Pretty much the neck snapper I was looking for. I'll post the changes that took place but I need to get 500 miles on it to really let it rip and give you a seat of the pants report. The ignition, pipes, and carb were previously done so I'll just give you the basic motor work.
Cylinders were shortened by .045 (which means -.045 from where they were so actual finish length may differ)
Positive deck by .010 (piston above cylinder)
.010 base gaskets and .030 head gaskets.
Woods 9F cam installed with new bearing (.650 lift .256 duration)
Travel limiters installed due to fast ramp of cam
Tappet blocks clearanced as well.
Cylinders re honed with new rings
Manley .650 high lift springs with custom lower spring collars.
spring seats machined/complete valve job
heads cc'd (90.8)
some combustion chamber modifications/other headwork
intake manifold machined .035 off per side due to cylinder length reduction
static compression set at 10.8:1
aggressive timing curve set with crane HI-4 28 deg. BTDC and rear cyl. @0
rejetted carb (set a little fat for break in) 82 main 33 int.

Hey Al, I too am getting my Bike (2006 Mastiff) hopped up a little. I am currently getting the heads (extra set) ported and polished, milled .0030, larger valves 2.00 intake and 1.605 exhaust, the Bob Woods springs to go with the Bob Woods W6HF 650 lift and I will also add the Big Air PSI Carb to that set up. Once I open up the motor, I will have the cylinders milled enough to leave the piston at -0.001 in the hole. That and stock head gaskes should put my compression 10.53 to 1.,which is all I want for street use.

My concern now is the Final Drive Belt, I have read on the forum that too much torque will pop the belt. Have you had to replace yours and if you have what worked best for you. I read about the S&S gates belt, but I have no idea :loony: what or which belt would apply to my Bike. Can you or anyone give me an idea as to the part number or other numbers I could use to upgrade my Belt . I like loud the this will be loud with my V&H exhuast baffels cut in 1/2 and Stainless Creations Velocity Stacks. I currently use the S&S 600 and xxx Carb great setup but a little more won't hurt.

Carlos

 

[alhall88]

Hey Al, I too am getting my Bike (2006 Mastiff) hopped up a little. I am currently getting the heads (extra set) ported and polished, milled .0030, larger valves 2.00 intake and 1.605 exhaust, the Bob Woods springs to go with the Bob Woods W6HF 650 lift and I will also add the Big Air PSI Carb to that set up. Once I open up the motor, I will have the cylinders milled enough to leave the piston at -0.001 in the hole. That and stock head gaskes should put my compression 10.53 to 1.,which is all I want for street use.

My concern now is the Final Drive Belt, I have read on the forum that too much torque will pop the belt. Have you had to replace yours and if you have what worked best for you. I read about the S&S gates belt, but I have no idea :loony: what or which belt would apply to my Bike. Can you or anyone give me an idea as to the part number or other numbers I could use to upgrade my Belt . I like loud the this will be loud with my V&H exhuast baffels cut in 1/2 and Stainless Creations Velocity Stacks. I currently use the S&S 600 and xxx Carb great setup but a little more won't hurt.

Carlos

Sounds good carlos, but I haven't really looked into the belt for my bike as yet. One thing though I have a left side side drive and I'm lucky because I have a full 1-1/2 wide belt. I haven't had any issues yet and I've beat it pretty good. With all those mods you may want to consider a different intake, that thing will want some air

 

[Daddycool]

Al, who did your heads?

 

[alhall88]

Local guy here in Michigan came recommended from the builder, due to his knowledge on the woods cams and what he thought needed done.

 

[XTREEME]

Just got mine back today after 4 long weeks in the shop. Here are the details:

S&S Rocker Boxes
S&S Rocker Arms & shafts
Heavy Duty 650 springs
Rebuilt Heads, Bored Cylinders (4 1/8)
+.010 piston set
Wild Thing Cam (625)
High Performance Clutch spring, ball and ramp (3/8)


I already had the 2in1 pro pipe, K&N, and jet kit done, so really, the only things left to do would be Ignition and Carb (once the warranty is up).

NOW, its a nice neck snapper. :2thumbs:

 

[alhall88]

Well finally ran a couple runs today and found out that I'm going to need a thunder jet due to the rear cylinder going too lean. The front also shows slightly lean but its damn near perfect under 4500 rpm's. The air fuel map here looks bad but these are 3000 plus rpm roll ons that we were trying to pinpoint. Another suggestion I got was after we retune after a thunder jet if the rear is still a little lean was to add a little restriction to the rear head pipe only. This is how I wanted the run to go with a split tune showing each cylinder using the sniffer in the collector instead of using the port on the front pipe. Which shows how the front scavanges the rear somewhat. Not to bad though seems close to what some of you guys are getting.

 

[Chopper Dave]

those are pretty good numbers Al.....your scoot sounds like a rocket!! :2thumbs:

 

[Gas Man]

Those are some great runs though.

 

[Nomad2day]

Alright Al,
Looks like a load of fun to me...I see the pulls were close to each other too..

 

[lee]

nice numbers Al - what about that lean spike on the front at 2500?

 

[alhall88]

nice numbers Al - what about that lean spike on the front at 2500?

Lee those starting values aren't accurate as we were doing hard roll on's to get to the lean condition at 4500 plus rpm's. I am not sure but was told that you have to sustain a rpm for a certain time for an accurate air fuel reading. I wasn't paying attention myself but he claims I'm all good there just needs more fuel at those higher rpm's. If I throw in a larger main this helps the mix at the higher rpm's but it also introduces a stumble in the midrange.

 

[Vegas]

Very nice numbers but I would have expected more with all your work.

 

[Mongo]

Pretty good numbers.

 

[Mongo]

I had problems with the belt on my Mastiff popping, lost 3 of them, until I finally went with a HD belt. Their belts are the strongest in the biz. They have a patten on them with extra reinforcement ( more Kevlar strands). If you have to replace your belt that is what I would go with haven't broke it yet and I have been giving it hell.

 

[alhall88]

Very nice numbers but I would have expected more with all your work.

I was too but I'm not done yet. I think Marv was close to these as well before his PSI install. I will be changing up the jets, air bleed and adding a thunder jet most likely to see if I can make any gains then this winter I will attack the gearing. I won't mess with too much this summer because I do like to ride. But realistically I'm at 4 horsepower less than what the builder said I should see.

 

[HDLARRY]

Al, I really like that dyno chart, the torque and HP curves make for a great street bike. The cam seems to build excellent torque right from the bottom and has very little drop off before 5200 where the HP kicks in.

I ended up adding a Thunderjet to my XXX G carb in order to get the fuel delivery correct. Everything is good now except my fuel mileage has gone into the toilet after the Thunderjet addition.

I'm only using the S&S 600 cam and ports cleaned up but similar otherwise.

 

[Vegas]

I was going to say thunderjet after talking to a local builder the other day.

 

[alhall88]

Here's some interesting info. I talked to Bob at xxx today and he's suggesting that before I add a thunderjet to try a 54 or 56 air bleed and maybe a 80 main. He suggesting also that the thunderjet works best without the xxx bore and boost job. The thunderjet works better on stock G carbs however it still has its benefits. I have some mill time available to me on Tuesday so I think I will pull the carb and machine it myself for the thunderjet.