HELP WITH PDM INSTALL
- Thread starter 07bigdog
- Start date
YELLA FELLA
Member
Ok thanks Raywood.
Fibersnake
Banjo Playing PsychoBilly
The one with all the ground, has to go to good ground. If you bolted it to battery box, make sure the battery box has a solid ground. I ran a ground from my battery terminal to a brass stud that was mounted to the frame and from the other side of the stud, hooked up many grounds.
See if that may be the problem.
See if that may be the problem.
c.c.rider
Well-Known Member
Thanks Fibersnake for the response but I F up the power wire from the CB to the battery was'nt hooked up. That's why you don't drink and work on your bike. I hooked it up and it fired right up. Other then that it was a pretty easy install the worst part was tie wrapping all the wires.
07bigdog
07BIGDOG
Glad everything worked out for you on the install.
YELLA FELLA
Member
i need pictures of those who are done and running again to compare my wiring to. some of the wording throws me off on the instructions. What circuit breaker are the speaking of? Frame ground? and i also have 2 wires from the backbone that have no place to plug into. Appreciate all of the help guys.
07bigdog
07BIGDOG
Are you talking about a wire or a connector on the backbone? The blue,yellow, red (i think that is the color) wire at the backbone does not get unplugged. It is for the coil and ignition module. It is not part of the PDM harness. There is one other connector that i think is for an EFI bike.
YELLA FELLA
Member
Ken, where did you run your main ground cable to? Fibersnake said to mount it to the battery box. on the left side of your battery box, there is a terminal with 2 mounting positions. Is this what they are calling circuit breaker?
07bigdog
07BIGDOG
Yes, the terminal with the 2 mounting positions is the circuit breaker. One side positive and one side negative. It is in between the horn and where you mount the horn relay. The big negative cable runs from the starter to the battery. The 4 ground wires on the PDM harness are mounted to the bottom of my battery box. I then added an extra groung wire from there to the battery.
YELLA FELLA
Member
Well Gents, i fired the Dog up. Thanks to all of your input and special thanks to C.C. Rider for the pictures. havent had time to ride, but thats coming soon. Thanks again
07bigdog
07BIGDOG
Fired up the bike this weekend and still have problems with the PDM. Ignition module kicks out when start button is engaged. Talked to David at bdm performance products and said it is a faulty HCI. I bought the unit in 2010 from Bigdog when they were still in business, so bdm will not warranty. Said it would cost between $200-$300 to repair or buy a new refined harness for $621. Then i have to pay around $250 for customes and taxes fees to ship to Canada. By the time i'm done i will have a $1500 PDM system. This sucks the big one.
BigDogBro1
Made in the USA
We feel your pain.
F.Y.I.
STOP.....bad information!
"Yes, the terminal with the 2 mounting positions is the circuit breaker. One side positive and one side negative."
A circuit breaker is for current to pass through. It's installed in series with the circuit to protect the wiring from an overload.
You do not connect a + on one termianl and a - on the other....that would be a direct SHORT condition.
bearman
Active Member
I had to really think hard about this one (because there is a typo on the BDM PDM Revision C wiring diagram that I have), but it does NOT make sense (to me) that the HCI is bad.
On the wiring diagram, at the Run/Start Relay, the red wire should be labeled “RED-RUN/START” NOT “RED-RH/HC”(which means right hand-hand control) because it should be tied into pin 7 of the middle HCI connector (8pin) on the diagram (power to the ignition and start relay), not pin 7 of the bottom HCI connector(12pin) on the diagram (power to the run switch).
You should not have power to the ignition or the starter until after turning on the key then pressing the run button. The run button turns on a relay that is supposed to send power to both the start relay and the ignition module at the same time. So if your starter is spinning your ignition should have power also.
I need more info.
When you press the start button and the light goes off on the ignition module, does the starter still spin the motor over?
I am confused by the whole test light thing.
What are you connecting the other end of the test light to - ground or positive side of battery?
Which wire are you calling the second green wire? You should have one going to the harness and another going to the PDM.
Both should have 12 volts (to ground) after the key is on and the run button is pressed (so should the red wire to the relay).
If your HCI module does wind up being bad, then I think we can get you working like normal by just adding another relay and a few feet of wire (possibly just wire) to bypass the HCI module for the ignition power (since everything else seems to work fine).
On the wiring diagram, at the Run/Start Relay, the red wire should be labeled “RED-RUN/START” NOT “RED-RH/HC”(which means right hand-hand control) because it should be tied into pin 7 of the middle HCI connector (8pin) on the diagram (power to the ignition and start relay), not pin 7 of the bottom HCI connector(12pin) on the diagram (power to the run switch).
You should not have power to the ignition or the starter until after turning on the key then pressing the run button. The run button turns on a relay that is supposed to send power to both the start relay and the ignition module at the same time. So if your starter is spinning your ignition should have power also.
I need more info.
When you press the start button and the light goes off on the ignition module, does the starter still spin the motor over?
I am confused by the whole test light thing.
What are you connecting the other end of the test light to - ground or positive side of battery?
Which wire are you calling the second green wire? You should have one going to the harness and another going to the PDM.
Both should have 12 volts (to ground) after the key is on and the run button is pressed (so should the red wire to the relay).
If your HCI module does wind up being bad, then I think we can get you working like normal by just adding another relay and a few feet of wire (possibly just wire) to bypass the HCI module for the ignition power (since everything else seems to work fine).
07bigdog
07BIGDOG
The diagram shows black green red green. I have black green green red. The test light we used is hooked to the positive and negative on the battery. Low & peen test light. With probe stuck in green wire for hand control. With key turned on test light showing green. With run button.On test light showing red meaning getting power. Press start button ignition module kicks off. With probe from test light pushed into wire everything works fine. I'm going to try adding a diode onto the wire and see if ignition mode stays on.