HELP Please! Transmission issues.

Energy One

Steven Proctor

Active Member
Ok, so to start off, I was having a small leak on the left side of the bike. Decided to change out the seals and bearing door gasket. Things went pretty smooth getting everything off the bike. I did buy the main bearing but didn't change it, the old one looked good and moved really well. Fluid looked really good too. No shavings or metal, all the teeth look good. No movement from the main shaft. Got the bike all back together and it seems to find neutral. I haven't added more tranny fluid yet. Wanted to see how the bike shifted while off and not running. So while not running the following is taking place. However, the bike will roll in all gears. I shift to 1st and it rolls with some friction. It rolls in "N" but not as smooth as before. When I shift up to 2nd, the bike rolls with some friction or drag, same in all the other gears. I can't tell if I am making it all the way up to 6th. I do have an open primary and everything seemed to go back together fine. I am stumped!!?? What are your thoughts or recommendations? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx!
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Did you take an air tool to the output shaft nut, or did you torque it? With the bike in N, and 'not as smooth as before,' says output bearing might be too loaded to one side, via too over torqued.

And when you say 'drags in every gear,' are you saying you still are holding the clutch lever in pushing the bike? I mean, if not running and you are pushing with clutch lever out and it drags, I have to stop and go back to N being pushed so harder than before. So again, if the lever is out, in gear and it drags in gear, you need a pushrod clutch adjustment. It"s probably me visually seeing how/what you are doing finding gears so here is how I read it:

1. I did take an air tool and loaded the bearing somehow-unless I loosen said shaft nut-go hand tight and repeat gear steps to find N is back to normal.
2. I am pulling the clutch in, I'm not connecting the dots how much drag there is even with the plates separated while pushing in gear, sans N.
3. I am having trouble counting gears so I now stop pushing the bike, stop using the clutch lever and statically count the gears by having the rear wheel off the ground, one hand on the tire; one hand on the shifter; then move the wheel up and down while pulling the shifter lever up and release the lever; then pull the lever again; release and count the gears up as I go. I repeat the downshift the same way hardly moving the rear wheel so far up and down. I am now in 1st, make a fist and pop the lever from the bottom to find N without moving the wheel.

Signed,
NOLTT (N oversees little tire tries)
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
No air tools were used and I am not pulling in the clutch lever while rolling the bike. Tomorrow I’ll roll the bike while trying to shift and see what happens. Thanx for the advice.
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
Right now I am trying to adjust the clutch push rod. Just not sure of how to ensure it seated properly and adjusted right. I am looking for a thread on it now.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
If a liquid clutch assembly:
1. First, if this is a wave plate used as the pressure plate, the wave has to be flat, not cone shaped. That means the frictions are wearing down, the wave plate is going back to memory like a spring will. A flat aluminum plate does not work like a wave plate, where the aluminum plate moves into the clutch outer when the plates are wearing thin. So first thing is to have the pack of friction and steels to be within spec in thickness or it's a waste of time adjusting the clutch, because you will find it hard to snick into N.
2. Once the pack is correct, break the nut loose at the pressure plate, turn the screw in until you feel the screw take up the gap at the end of the pushrod. Turn the screw out 1/4 turn, hold the screw with the screwdriver so it does not move as you tighten the nut.

If it's a cable clutch assembly:
1. Same first thing to get out of the way is the pack, be it wave or aluminum pressure plate, same theory goes finding N without straining the ankle.
2. Run the center cable adjuster back in to where you hide the threads at the cable's center adjuster housing.
3. At the adjust screw, run the screw in the same way, then out 1/4 turn from a lightly seated stopping point. Tighten jam nut, holding screw so it does not move from the 1/4 turnout.
4. Run the center cable adjuster back out so threads show again, then pull the clutch lever until the gap at the lever to perch is as wide as a coin like a quarter's thickness. Tighten the lock nut at the cable's center adjuster.
5. Click into 1st gear, pull clutch lever in to the hand grip, turn the back wheel by hand. If no drag and the wheel turns freely, you have perfect adjustment at the pressure plate screw. It might take a few wheel spins to break the plates from each other, so ignore the initial [drag] movement spinning the wheel free.

Note:
The rod actuator has so much throw designed into it. So wave plate wise with a wet clutch lever assembly, the slave cylinder moves back into the housing via the rod being pushed back into the slave's piston caused by worn plates. The lever has the same throw distance liquid wise.
The cable style has the rod moving the in as the slave cylinder, but the lever to perch has not freeplay as the gap is taken up by the plates wearing down, the rod moving in, the perch gap disappears.
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
Now I have an additional issue. While I didn't do any original adjustments to the clutch cable, it is now very loose. There is a lot of play. I didn't notice this before. So now I am trying to adjust the cable and the rod. I cant seem to adjust the cable though. I am also having a hard time moving the boot about of the way so I can see the entire adjustment area for the cable. Because I didn't notice the clutch cable being too loose, I think this compounded the problem. Before I noticed the issue with the cable, I was able to walk the bike through the gears. FInding 1st, N and 2nd was good, but the higher I got in gear, it was a little harder to find and rocking the bike helped finding the gear. That is when I noticed the clutch cable or clutch lever having too much play. I do have an open primary though. I think I made the mistake of not loosing the clutch cable before removing the clutch rod and some thing in side the pully cover has gone awry.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
1. Pinch the rubber boot at the top, pull it out some, spray PAM cooking oil, WD40, furniture polish down the opening, Spin the boot and lift up, pull down, whoever has more room to slide. See the threads exposed? Hide them by spinning the one side so the threads move into the threaded collar.
2. With one hand on the clutch lever, one hand with the screwdriver in the other, turn the screw in, while lightly feeling the lever head for the perch. If it moves towards the hand grip, you are spinning it the wrong way.
3. Turn no more pressure on the screw as if you had your ball sack between the screw and rod. Back it out a 1/4 turn and hold screw, tighten nut.
4. You are done with the rod adjust. Go back to the cable, run the threads out, check the freeplay at the perch so you do not load the 1/4 gap and begin loading the rod at the screw on one end, and the rod butting up against the throw actuator. You want heat to expand so the lever has less gap heat wise. Statically cold, you want that coin size gap, if not a dime's thickness and you can still get away with that little bit of gap. Tighten the jam nut, PAM the rubber boot if need be or see how it slides over the jam session like a greased pig.
5. Test ride.

Note:
Never pull the clutch lever in chasing gears on a dead engine spinning the back wheel off the ground. Never pull the lever in rolling a bike chasing gears with a dead engine. Only pull the lever in, grab the pressure plate by hand and see how easy it turns. Turns easy, no warp plates.
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
I got the clutch boot pushed down and loosened all the way. I then took a look at the ball and ramp. I made sure the ramp was all the way to the right as you look down on it. So now I assume I put the pully cover back on and then follow the steps for the clutch rod installation and then tighten up the clutch cable. Am I missing anything? Sven, Once this is done, I can run through the gears? Also can you better explain what the coin size gap is? Is that for the clutch rod?
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
So, I have put everything back together with the exception of the exhaust back on. I put the pully cover back on and tightened. Installed the clutch rod. Tightened till I thought I has slight resistance and then back out 1/4 turn. I then tightened the lock nut. I then tightened the clutch cable. I used a quarter as the spacer. Once all was done the clutch lever felt good and returned to the forward position. (For a side question: what keeps you from tightening the clutch cable too far, so that it doesn't pull the ramp too far inside the housing?) I turned the bike on, not running so I could see the N light. Finds 1st, N and 2nd really well. What is the best way to test the rest of the gears with out rolling the bike too far. Like Sven said, I don't want to "chase" the gears. Thanks for your help.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
So, I have put everything back together with the exception of the exhaust back on. I put the pully cover back on and tightened. Installed the clutch rod. Tightened till I thought I has slight resistance and then back out 1/4 turn. I then tightened the lock nut. I then tightened the clutch cable. I used a quarter as the spacer. Once all was done the clutch lever felt good and returned to the forward position. (For a side question: what keeps you from tightening the clutch cable too far, so that it doesn't pull the ramp too far inside the housing?) I turned the bike on, not running so I could see the N light. Finds 1st, N and 2nd really well. What is the best way to test the rest of the gears with out rolling the bike too far. Like Sven said, I don't want to "chase" the gears. Thanks for your help.
You don't need to go through all of them, no difference between them 1st or 6th if issue was just clutch rod/cable adjustment.



Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
The coin thickness is where the freeplay is at the lever and perch. Usually it calls for an 1/8th to a 16th of an inch gap between lever perch; after you take the slack up on the cable. This lets the ball and ramp settle home so that ball end can be lubed with trans oil splash on the ball and ramp area. Like Th3 said, the gears make no difference statically. It's all about the rod adjustment followed by the ball and ramp sitting home with a slack cable. I think you figured it out. Finding N should be no problem. If it's effortless to find N at idle, means; the [wave style] pressure plate is within spec; the plate thickness is within spec; the steels are not warped; the rod adjustment is within spec.
 

Steven Proctor

Active Member
Thanx for the clarification. I think it is good. I am just waiting on more tranny fluid so I can fill the transmission. I had to order more because no one had any in stock. Looking forward to getting it back on the road and testing and with no leaks. I'll post again once I get it back on the road. Thanx fellas for all the help!
 
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