HELP!!!!!!! HELP !!!!!! HELP!!! ?????

Energy One

alabama

New Member
Has anyone out there had a problem with there fuil injected bike randomly dieing, while riding. The bike dies and the flashers come on like trying to start it with a low battery. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Check the ignition for loose wires....as a matter of fact check all the wires on the battery for loose crimps or loose wires.
 

erldawg

Guru
Check ground connection under the seat on the right side. Whistler had this come loose and also check the crimps. ksmike had something similar and turned out to be the coil...

Welcome aboard by the way. :hi:
 

DemonK9

Active Member
First off just to warn you, before the introduction police start their crusade...... By the way welcome aboard!
 

dingo

First 50
Check ground connection under the seat on the right side. Whistler had this come loose and also check the crimps. ksmike had something similar and turned out to be the coil...

Welcome aboard by the way. :hi:

I agree - my first thought was to check for a faulty ground !
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
Welcome from Washington State, hope you enjoy the site. Do you have anything hanging from your key chain that flaps in the wind or is heavy? :cheers:
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
First things first! Do an intro in the introduction section, people here like common courtesy and like to know who they are talking to.:hi: Now, as said above check your connection for corrision and looseness. If good then if your battery is more than two years old and you don't keep it on a battery maintainer (not charger) then you may need a new battery. These bikes don't like weak batteries. Also before you spend any money check your charging system by starting the bike and checking the voltage at the battery, should be 13 to 14 volts. Then come back and tell us what you found. Also good point above on the key fob flopping around in the wind could damage the switch.

PS. Welcome to the site.:2thumbs:
 

CHOPPED

KIFFMC
Had the same issue and it was loose connections on the battery terminals. Ended up being that the bolts were too short and kept backing out.
 

wyatt580

Well-Known Member
First things first! Do an intro in the introduction section, people here like common courtesy and like to know who they are talking to.:hi: Now, as said above check your connection for corrision and looseness. If good then if your battery is more than two years old and you don't keep it on a battery maintainer (not charger) then you may need a new battery. These bikes don't like weak batteries. Also before you spend any money check your charging system by starting the bike and checking the voltage at the battery, should be 13 to 14 volts. Then come back and tell us what you found. Also good point above on the key fob flopping around in the wind could damage the switch.

PS. Welcome to the site.:2thumbs:
Yup pretty well covers it.....welcome
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I've noticed a pattern going on here? Maybe I'm wrong, but how is it, you have these ignition systems all running or not? Then come to find out they are having a bad ground? Oh, my spark box is fine? Switch is it? Then I thought? Battery tender. Sitters. Some with volts, some not so volts wrong wit me bike?

Then it hit me. I'm a computer bike. I run two types of volts. My lights are 12v. My FI is 5v. If I do the math, I can't run a low battery level, meaning, I need a well charged battery if I need 0 to 5v of sensor readings of input to the computer. I read in 10ths of volts.

If you are not up to snuff with the bike's battery, the input says; I need 3.2v to send to the ECU [I picked a random number for argument sake] vs. 11.9v at the ECU? No. I need a maximum 12.8v at the dash pod. That is, if I had a volt meter.

This is a major variable for a no-start condition for any FI unit. A carb is a different animal. And with a carb bike... You go and shoot those. You let the FI's frolic in the fields.

I think this is, 'Start my FI 101?' De FI poll lease are here. Hide!
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
:rolleyes:
I've noticed a pattern going on here? Maybe I'm wrong, but how is it, you have these ignition systems all running or not? Then come to find out they are having a bad ground? Oh, my spark box is fine? Switch is it? Then I thought? Battery tender. Sitters. Some with volts, some not so volts wrong wit me bike?

Then it hit me. I'm a computer bike. I run two types of volts. My lights are 12v. My FI is 5v. If I do the math, I can't run a low battery level, meaning, I need a well charged battery if I need 0 to 5v of sensor readings of input to the computer. I read in 10ths of volts.

If you are not up to snuff with the bike's battery, the input says; I need 3.2v to send to the ECU [I picked a random number for argument sake] vs. 11.9v at the ECU? No. I need a maximum 12.8v at the dash pod. That is, if I had a volt meter.

This is a major variable for a no-start condition for any FI unit. A carb is a different animal. And with a carb bike... You go and shoot those. You let the FI's frolic in the fields.

I think this is, 'Start my FI 101?' De FI poll lease are here. Hide!
WTF! :rolleyes:
 

ChoppaNoob

Active Member
I think he's saying that a FI bike's computer may be more sensitive to voltage changes (weak battery/ bad grounds) than a carb'd. Not 100% sure though ! lol
 

chihuasbigdog

LATINAMERICAN AFFAIRS
I've noticed a pattern going on here? Maybe I'm wrong, but how is it, you have these ignition systems all running or not? Then come to find out they are having a bad ground? Oh, my spark box is fine? Switch is it? Then I thought? Battery tender. Sitters. Some with volts, some not so volts wrong wit me bike?

Then it hit me. I'm a computer bike. I run two types of volts. My lights are 12v. My FI is 5v. If I do the math, I can't run a low battery level, meaning, I need a well charged battery if I need 0 to 5v of sensor readings of input to the computer. I read in 10ths of volts.

If you are not up to snuff with the bike's battery, the input says; I need 3.2v to send to the ECU [I picked a random number for argument sake] vs. 11.9v at the ECU? No. I need a maximum 12.8v at the dash pod. That is, if I had a volt meter.

This is a major variable for a no-start condition for any FI unit. A carb is a different animal. And with a carb bike... You go and shoot those. You let the FI's frolic in the fields.

I think this is, 'Start my FI 101?' De FI poll lease are here. Hide!
And thats It! :confused::roll::roll:
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I think he's saying that a FI bike's computer may be more sensitive to voltage changes (weak battery/ bad grounds) than a carb'd. Not 100% sure though ! lol
I believe you are 100% correct.

And another thing I noticed. Waterproofing/rubbing/sloppy assembly of some of these BD's. I had dis ear guy tell me how he was all going to put this trick chit thing-gay-dingee on his car. I said, dude, you are selling race parts, but I'd spot some glue on that part you are trying to sell. Oh, no, I made this idea and I'm pushing dishit. I said, bye the time you add all that hardware to the weight of that piece of chit you expect to race, how much does your slot car weigh now? I put on, 'a little dab'ill do ya,' and you barf in your helmet holding your :whoop: Joy stick?

I know some of you may or may not listen to the turtle, butt in day end... Use is going to get it. Get it?




You have no idea what I have glued to my bike so no wire falls out from under my fender. You have no idea how I mounted a meter without hardware or a bracket. I just glued points, then taped the meter so it would not slide. That was just to hold it in place. Once it dried and held, I removed the tape, added more glue.

The beauty of this glue is that it will come off any part of the bike. Forget wood. I'm talking, nagging, darn thing won't stay in place glue = Amazing Chit. Try it. It peels off like it was never on the wire or the part you used the goop on. If you want waterproof, make sure that spark box is dry and out in the sun so whatever is in the cracks, should be evaporated by high noon. Glue it closed.
 
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