Help before I pull the trigger.

[Kdub]

Have an 08 k9 that is black. It has tons of swirl marks on the tank and rear fender. It has finally driven me to the point of actually wanting to buff it out. Problem is I have never done this. From what I read I need to wet sand with 2000 grit sand paper, buff with a rubbing compound then buff with a polishing compound. I am scared Shit less since I have never done thus before and don't want to screw up my paint. Any advice from you body and paint guys would help me tremendously. I'm curious about what kind of buffer to use, what speed to operate it at, and what kind of compounds to use. Thanks again.

 

[erldawg]

I think there may be other options with just a swirl and scratch remover. Try some Meguiers Mirror Glaze Cut and Polish Cream it's awesome stuff...

 

[Kdub]

I've tried just about everything. Everything else is basically a band aid. It makes it look a little better, but as soon as it washes off the scratch shows back up again. I figure worst case scenario I just have to get the bike repainted. It's only money right?:2thumbs:

 

[stryfox]

There are good how to's on buffing.
Just so you know you are going to be sanding and buffing the urethane clearcoat.
I reccomened taking the tins off to do this job as it will make a mess of the bike.
Just post here if you have any specific questions.
I mostly use 3M products for cutting and polishing but there are lots of good alternatives out there.

 

[GymRat]

I have a Harley that I painted all black, the painter told me to use a 3M Glaze to prevent the swirls. It works great! I bought an 05 chopper, all black and continue to use the same product. It completely removes any marks or swirls and leaves the finish looking like black glass. I highly recommend it.

 

[kmalysa]

If all you have is swirl marks, I would skip the sanding and just buff. Sanding is only needed to remove orange peel or scratches that are a little deeper in the clear coat.If you have never done this before but want to give it a try, I highly recommend practice on an older car or something else first.
I used to have my own Auto Detailing business, and have color sanded and buffed many many paint jobs including several, million dollar cars, that were auctioned off at the Barret Jackson Auction in Scottsdale, AZ.

My recommendations:
1st of all my used 05 Pitbull is black and had alot of swirls too. I cut and buffed it to a show shine.

Always start with the LEAST AGGRESSIVE first, if that doesn't work go up a step, and yet another step if needed. These paint jobs have already been color sanded to remove orange peel, so the depth of the clear may be somewhat thin.

Steps to repairing clear coat:
1) Most aggressive : Wet sand with 2000 grit (not recommended unless removing major flaws such as orange peel or deeper scratches
2) Agressive: Buff using Meguiars Diamond cut 2.0 with 6" pad (PN W-7006) start cutting at about 3000-3500 RPM (4000RMP max if realy rough)
3) Less Agressiveolish with Meguiars Swirl remover 2.0 using 6" pad (PN W9006) Buff at approx 2800RPM and reduce to 2200RPM as product is being worked in.
4) 0 Aggresive, hand polish with Show Car Glaze.

Mine was pretty dull so I used steps 2 thru 4. Again, experiment on something less valuable 1st.
Ken

 

[Kdub]

Thanks kmalysa. That's exactly what I was lookin for. For most of the body I'm not gonna sand, just the rear fender where the pad has really rubbed hard on it. Tonight the night if I have time. Got all the tins stripped and found a nice buffer. We'll see how it goes.

 

[kmalysa]

Thanks kmalysa. That's exactly what I was lookin for. For most of the body I'm not gonna sand, just the rear fender where the pad has really rubbed hard on it. Tonight the night if I have time. Got all the tins stripped and found a nice buffer. We'll see how it goes.

Your welcome,
Since you decided to practice right on your own tin's, try slower speeds of the buffer, and only increase the speed if you are not removing the swirls. I really recommend trying the swirl remover methos 3 first.


The cutting compound will actualy create swirl marks that will then need method 3 to remove. It just depends how bad your tins are to begin with.

 

[blazen582]

If there is only light scuffs and swirl makes I would start with a foam pad on the buffer and everyone has there favorites but 3M makes three levels of cutter (fine, medium) and forget what the other is but the fine with a foam pad should do it. Start out at a lower speed and go up from there. Just feel it after buffing and dont let it get to hot. If you sand you might have to start buffing with a wool pad and end up with more swirl marks than now.. Just my 2 cents.. lol

 

[stryfox]

DO not do in direct sunlight. This is a mistake many make when learning to buff.
Also Clean off splatter in a timely maner.

 

[Kdub]

One last thing. Wash between different applications, or just wipe it down?

 

[stryfox]

You can Wipe down with a damp clean soft towel between steps.

 

[Kdub]

Thanks for the help guys. Got er done last night. Still has suction cup marks but they are deep in the paint. Got all the swirls and scratches out and the cup marks look tons better. Overall I'm very happy with it. Wasn't nearly as bad as I though it would be. Thanks again for the tips and advice.

 

[kmalysa]

Thanks for the help guys. Got er done last night. Still has suction cup marks but they are deep in the paint. Got all the swirls and scratches out and the cup marks look tons better. Overall I'm very happy with it. Wasn't nearly as bad as I though it would be. Thanks again for the tips and advice.

Glad everything turned out okay for you!

 

[San Diego Dog]

Clear Film

I had a clear plastic film installed over my rear fender to keep the pilon pad from scratching the fender. It works awesome and you can't even see the film. I can't remember what brand of film it was. I think it's 3M. But they put this stuff on $200K cars because it works. I highly recommend you get the film on the fender after you get the swirl marks out. :up: