Hard Clutch pull

Energy One
Scooter33

Scooter33

Member
Is this normal? The clutch is way hard to pull.. Could there be an issue with the clutch? It is smooth to pull but it's the stiffest pull I have ever had on a bike,

Scooter
 
07bigdog

07bigdog

07BIGDOG
This is normal. They have an easy pull clutch kit that you could install but depending how you drive it could slip. The 2008's came from the factory with the easy pull clutch. Check out "bdmperformanceproducts" for pricing on an easy pull clutch.
 
RoadRider

RoadRider

Active Member
I did an easy pull for a customer and it made a little difference but when I lubed the cable it cut the pull pressure in half. I am sure it was a combination of both but the lube is your best bet first.
 
Nukeranger

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
07bigdog said:
This is normal. They have an easy pull clutch kit that you could install but depending how you drive it could slip. The 2008's came from the factory with the easy pull clutch. Check out "bdmperformanceproducts" for pricing on an easy pull clutch.
Click to expand...
Interesting - didn't know that 2008 came with easy pull. Explains why I didn't think mine was hard. Thanks for the info.

Nukeranger
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
bigdogtech01 said:
Cable lube will help. Preferably "Dry Slide".
Click to expand...
If it has an inner plastic liner, yes, dry slide.
If it has a steel inner cable inside, rides on a steel outer cable meaning? Then, sewing machine oil, 3-in-1 oil type runs into the stands and soaks it faster is all.

RoadRider said:
I did an easy pull for a customer and it made a little difference but when I lubed the cable it cut the pull pressure in half. I am sure it was a combination of both but the lube is your best bet first.
Click to expand...
Second part is cable routing:

U or C sort of mean the same loop as opposed to an S or V loop. Those might bind with too sharp a curve, meaning. So when replacing cable, the easier you can move that inner cable, [without hooking up either end] to see how easy it "statically moves," the less arm pump at the traffic light.
 
mark whitrock

mark whitrock

Active Member
BDM was in the process of offering a hydraulic up grade when they closed the doors and I was lucky enough get a master cylinder that matched the brake side and I fabricated my own tranny cover and used an actuator from a Triumph.
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
My Bro Raywood go lucky there too.
Little-Boo fixed him up with a factory Master Cylinder and I gave him my original R&D design for a Hydraulic cover.
 
Scooter33

Scooter33

Member
Gonna lube that shit..when I get time. Had to go to the Honda shop to get the luber and other items they H D didn't carry today. The dog had to take a back seat to the h2o leak from the kitchen sink sprayer. So that means We just got back from lowes $800 bones later, with a new sink, food disposal and vacuum switch to replace the old stuff. Then the big screen tv needs lowered on the wall. Can't forget the entertainment center relocation ba. Then I can get back to the bike.
 
EZ Dog

EZ Dog

Active Member
Mark weren't the hydraulics on the BDM prototype controls 9/16" dia. bores. I've heard 11/16" dia. bore is required for the best performance with our clutch throw.
 
H

hayseed

Member
anyone have any ideas on how to fabricate one,, possibly using the original cable to a remote master with a link arm or a secondary cable into the existing clutch actuator ?
 
Diesel Dan

Diesel Dan

Well-Known Member
like SVEN said:cheers:......lube the shit outta that cable brothe:2thumbs:r....then go from there...IDK what it would cost to convert to a EasyPull clutch style setup???::confused:.....But a can of lube is a good place to start:up:.....
 
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