Handlebar control options?

Energy One

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Starter=plunger on side of starter
high/low beams=switch on bottom of side cover under seat
Turn signals=left arm

I have always used hand signals on a bike, it’s way more obvious than turn signals to drivers. Flashing lights mean almost nothing to the average driver, but a rider making “strange” movements will attract their attention better. I’ve lost 4 good friends that used their turn signals, but I’ve never had a single problem with hand signals. Well, there was one idiot cop that didn’t know the law, but that turned out better for me than for him. He spent the last 11 years in a wheelchair drooling on himself, I only spent 4 hours behind bars, and was found innocent by a jury.
Im sorry to hear of your friends passing. I too am going to remove the ehc. I have already mounted switches under my tank for the hi/low and turn signals and I slam my solenoid to start her up. Here a link to the thread I started about yr exact situation.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/turn-signal-headlight-wiring.78057/#post-756329
 

SomeTexan

Member
Yep understood! I like the super clean as well.

I remove turn sig, belt guard, lisense frame, including cutting tabs off frame and refinishing, etc.
Same here, get rid on any unneeded tabs, and anything extra. I want to kind of bring old school chopper/bobber design concept to the new style chopper.
 

SomeTexan

Member
Im sorry to hear of your friends passing. I too am going to remove the ehc. I have already mounted switches under my tank for the hi/low and turn signals and I slam my solenoid to start her up. Here a link to the thread I started about yr exact situation.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/turn-signal-headlight-wiring.78057/#post-756329
What did you do for the handlebars? All my switches still work, and the ehc seems to be fine. I’m just wanting to personalize the bike.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
My handlebar switches died one at a time. Ive read so many ehc issues on here that I want to catch it before it catches me. To give you an idea of why Im being so proactive and rewiring my bike...my roadname is Brokedown.
 
Last edited:

SomeTexan

Member
Same here. My switches all still work except the rear left turn signal. I want to elimanate the problem before it starts, and clean up the looks.

What I meant was, what do you have on your handlebars now? Do you still have the non-working switches, or did you replace or remove them?
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
My apologies. Yes, they are still stock. I decided to go with 8" T-bars, but want to redo my seat before I do the bars. I want a certain ride height and reach..
Im thinking of going with internal throttle cables and a hydraulic clutch to really clean up the area.
 

SomeTexan

Member
My apologies. Yes, they are still stock. I decided to go with 8" T-bars, but want to redo my seat before I do the bars. I want a certain ride height and reach..
Im thinking of going with internal throttle cables and a hydraulic clutch to really clean up the area.
No apology needed, just simple misunderstanding. I looked at t-bars, nothing that has really caught my eye yet. I do want to go with internal throttle cable, but I’m not too fond of hydraulic clutches. I need to see if they make an internally routed clutch set up. Then just a pair of grips and a pair of levers on the bars.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Ever had a clutch cable snap? Ive been through 3 in my 34 years of riding. Not a comfy feeling. Youll want a hydraulic clutch.
I did consider staying with external cables and just getting longer ones and mounting them to the tree so they stay closer to the bars.
 

SomeTexan

Member
Ever had a clutch cable snap? Ive been through 3 in my 34 years of riding. Not a comfy feeling. Youll want a hydraulic clutch.
I did consider staying with external cables and just getting longer ones and mounting them to the tree so they stay closer to the bars.
I’ve had 2 clutch cables snap, but I’ve had way more issues with hydraulic clutch failure. With sportbikes, it was popular to swap from hydraulic to cable for reliability. Were you using good cables? The only ones I had issues with your old and neglected, or cheap eBay junk.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Both were OEM, 1982 Kawasaki and 2005 BDM. I had my Ninja for 21 years and never had a hydraulic problem. What could go wrong with that design?
 

SomeTexan

Member
Both were OEM, 1982 Kawasaki and 2005 BDM. I had my Ninja for 21 years and never had a hydraulic problem. What could go wrong with that design?
The TL1000R was known to lose seals in the slave cylinder. Upgraded clutches were known to blow out seals in a lot of bikes. Some of the factory rubber hoses won’t last long with upgrades clutches. Heat, as mentioned by dentdude. It doesn’t just boil the fluid, it shortens the life of the seals as well. As someone who has been riding, wrenching and racing since childhood, my personal experiences with hydro clutches was far worse than with cables. And I will say that none of the upper level race bikes I’ve worked on used hydro clutches. 2 seasons building engines and trackside tuning for Spanish GP500 teams and I never saw a hydro clutch in the pits.

Plus, with a cable and some ingenuity, I can rig something to get me home. With a hydro, you are stuck hoping for a ride.
 

LamboV12

Active Member
When I converted my bike to direct wire, I cut the ends from a V Rod and welded them on. Wanted V Rod for holes already there to run hydraulic clutch. Then found these HHI switches, very cool and work great. At same time moved the trans mount to run standard trans and primary.
 

Attachments

SomeTexan

Member
When I converted my bike to direct wire, I cut the ends from a V Rod and welded them on. Wanted V Rod for holes already there to run hydraulic clutch. Then found these HHI switches, very cool and work great. At same time moved the trans mount to run standard trans and primary.
That is another thing I am considering, changing the trans and mount so I have more selection in open primarys. How much is involved in that?
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
When I converted my bike to direct wire, I cut the ends from a V Rod and welded them on. Wanted V Rod for holes already there to run hydraulic clutch. Then found these HHI switches, very cool and work great. At same time moved the trans mount to run standard trans and primary.
How did you move the trans mount? Cut and weld a new mount plate? Have to move from a 6 bolt down to a 4 bolt, right?

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
Top