Sheets left out in the pages of a shop man you will... have to learn thishit on your own. Slow lettuce begin tearing out leaf after leaf of the basics:
Air screw/idle screw/idle mixture screw is the way to find which one screws fuel or air.
1. Screw to the air cleaner side is an air screw. Turn in it goes rich.
2. Screw at cylinder head side is a fuel screw. Turn this in goes lean.
Have to remember that the main and mid jets are sucked upon start and idle.
a. If you lean out the idle mix screw, it is part of the idle to WOT of the 3 circuits.
b. Will point out hard starting, does not want to idle.
c. Probably bog for the linear suck at it when messing with it.
If you placed a short eyelash of said diameter and length, and had it cocked [/] in the main jet, it too will show hard starting, poor to no idle, let alone will have zip for powering away.
Vacuum will drag back to 14.7 and like electricity, will take the shortest path, meaning, there are no doors closing fuel out of every orifice. If a video showed circuits closed at certain throttle openings, you'd feel a drop in power, let alone a snap back to fuel kicking in, because nature explains it better to me than I can convince you how to turn that screw.
Home he does not have the ear like a needle smacking increments of 25 to 50 rpms off a tach meter. There you would see a drop or a rise in rpm. That takeaway is to see too rich/too lean and aim for the middle. It's a waste at the 'fiddlefuck screw.'
Kind of see how finding the middle of that screw and that is all she wrote? Brass against aluminum for the 'initial turns out' is going to ruin the flow of both needle and carb body. You'd more have to feel the rubber oring than home that needle. Thus the tach meter.
How to read a plug. It's not the nose and metal, it's way down at the base of the porcelain showing lean/rich. Carb bike starts on a 1/4 kick. If it starts that fast right now, do not mess with the screw. Install new plugs and take a ride for the day. Pull them out and now read it. Plug threads come out dry or oily?
Might as well check compression while the plugs are out. This way you'll know you have the kinetic to start to help burn the gas or she goes rich. And while we are at on how to read the abstract in the shop manual, some manuals and/or spec books show compression as (153 - 187 psi). So reading that says poor running at 153 or it's at its serviceable limit.
Funny, but a ducati shop manual capped POOR right next to 150 being the lowest limit. So when I pointed this out, meaning, how to read the duc's manual to some guy that was selling his 'rebuilt' engine. True, a clean and assembled one, but he had photos of both cylinders having 150 psi. I spoke the abstract it needing a rebuild according to their own shop manual. Guru comes out and says 150 is OK it will run. With that said, 150 on yours says the same, if 153 is for small engines and 150 for larger twin cyl duc's.
Signed,
NOLTT
