Front Fork Stops
- Thread starter Point08
- Start date
Here's a pic of your lower tripple. You can see the internal fork stop plate. It is screwed in with a torx bit that I replaced with allens.
The tab that is on the bottom of the neck
And you can see the bdm internal stop setup on my accutronix tripples
The tab that is on the bottom of the neck
And you can see the bdm internal stop setup on my accutronix tripples
I replaced my trees a couple of years ago and still have the stock ones complete with bearing and all. I would like to sell them for $100.00 plus shipping. If your interested let me know .
Carlos
Relic
Active Member
I bought the bike for my wife (point 08's) and fixed the fork stop.
It was a DT frame so it had cups on the neck. I could see the cup would move & was pretty sure what the problem was. When I pulled it apart, there was no neck or tree damage. The only problem was it sheered the pin that holds the cup stationary (fork stop tab is part of the cup).
After talking to Daytec, I used a new cup and factory pin and added an additional pin to the top of the cup (drilled new cup and bike neck).
If you have the same problem, here are a few tips:
The cups are hardened. They will eat titanium bits etc. Use Carbide bits and it will make your life easier. Also, watch your drill angle when drilling the neck. Go about 3/8" up into the neck (no more). Use 3/16 roll pins and drive them in (tight fit). Trim the excess pin flush. Look at the factory pin for drilling location. Perfect location is if the race still exposes 1/2 of the pin (you want 1/2 under the race to make sure it stays in).
Hope this helps.
It was a DT frame so it had cups on the neck. I could see the cup would move & was pretty sure what the problem was. When I pulled it apart, there was no neck or tree damage. The only problem was it sheered the pin that holds the cup stationary (fork stop tab is part of the cup).
After talking to Daytec, I used a new cup and factory pin and added an additional pin to the top of the cup (drilled new cup and bike neck).
If you have the same problem, here are a few tips:
The cups are hardened. They will eat titanium bits etc. Use Carbide bits and it will make your life easier. Also, watch your drill angle when drilling the neck. Go about 3/8" up into the neck (no more). Use 3/16 roll pins and drive them in (tight fit). Trim the excess pin flush. Look at the factory pin for drilling location. Perfect location is if the race still exposes 1/2 of the pin (you want 1/2 under the race to make sure it stays in).
Hope this helps.