I have the bike at my mechanics garage.
So if the forum gets your bike running the mechanic will give us the money?
We'll check the connection at the coil to the front cylinder.
Here's some troubleshooting for you (I'd read it over before you do it!)...
1. ASSUMING the bike will run (if not, go to step 2)... do you have flashing blue and yellow lights on the ignition module? If you do, the ignition module is probably good, go to step 2. If you only have one light, in your case blue, the module is bad. If the bike won't run, do you at least have a red light on the ignition module after pressing the RUN button?
2. With the bike OFF, check the three wires on the coil by disconnecting them, cleaning them up, and even giving the connectors a little tug to make sure they're secure. Do the same with the large wires going to the plugs. If all is well go to step 3.
3. With all the wires still disconnected from the coil take your trusty multimeter (you DO have a trusty multimeter, don't you?), set it on the "ohms" scale, and check the resistance of the primary (yellow wire coil connection to red wire connection then blue wire connection to red connection) and secondary of the coil (spark plug connector to red wire connection on coil). The primary should be only a few ohms... like 3 ohms. The secondary should be somewhere around 12 - 13K ohms. Values significantly different than those means your coil has probably gone tits up! Assuming your coil is good, go to step 4. (NOTE: If the coil measures good you could repeat this step while applying heat to the coil with a hair dryer to rule out a heat related problem...)
4. Make sure none of the wires you disconnected from the coil are touching each other or ground then turn the bike ON, press RUN, and see if you have 12V on the red wire (don't worry about the blue or yellow). If you don't have voltage on the red wire you either have a bad ignition module or the wire from the module to the coil is open. If you do have 12V on the red go to step 5.
5. At this point if you've found nothing wrong I would check the continuity of the yellow and blue wires from the ignition module to the coil (you'll need to unplug the three pin connector at the ignition module (red/yellow/blue wires) to do that. If you didn't have 12V on the red wire in the previous step check that wire in this step also.
By the way, the reason I haven't suggested checking for voltage on the yellow or blue wire is because you'd only get voltage at the split second a plug is firing. Those two (blue/yellow) wires supply a ground to the coil that only breaks for the time it takes to fire a plug.
I'd say that's enough to get you going for now. What results have you got so far?
Did you guys ever have this prob?
You'd be amazed at how far you'd have to go to find a problem this forum hasn't already seen or isn't able to fix!!!
Dennis
