Fried ehc. I am sick…

Energy One

Nwhicks21

Member
Well after almost a year of searching for parts and finally getting everything I needed and being able to put this thing together, after a few dumb mistakes on my part installing starter wires wrong 12k later put the rip kit on and got everything buttoned up to the best of my knowledge and what I could understand from the manuals and schematics. Got about 1 mile out of the dog and came home to troubleshoot my speedometer, put a power probe on the red wire to the Speedo and wherever that’s related or not idk, but looks like a ground wire in the backbone harness (the one to the Speedo I assume) is smoked. I tried to start it it initially started to turn over for half second, then lost all power. I’m looking at the gen 2 module right now and it looks cooked, I don’t understand how from just added 12v to an already 12v supply but now I have nothing. The module will make a light buzzing sound that’s it. No lights, no red light on ignition module, nothing. I was so freakin excited about this and finally after a year of headaches and suffering trying to locate parts and save enough money to buy them all, I’m right back at square one. I had a lot of good information from some really good ppl on here that helped me get it going, and I appreciate everything, you guys don’t know how much I appreciate that and how truly helpful it was for me but thank you again. I am left with no choice but to try to sell the bike if anyone might be interested, it breaks my fuckn heart, but there’s no way I can afford another rip kit or 500$ module. If anyone knows anyone that might possibly be able to fix it (ehc module) or has a used one that works laying around and would be willing to trade for anything or any kind of work… I can do about anything, and I have lots of car audio stuff and tools etc, I just really don’t know what to do and I hate to get rid of it, but I’m struggling so bad financially I am barely living paycheck to paycheck the way it is. If you think problem might be elsewhere please lmk, but I understand and I’m pretty sure where I stand rn. Take care guys.
 

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Nwhicks21

Member
Mine should still be under warranty, I’m currently in discussion with them about it. I’m stripping her down to check for any shorts anywhere in any circuit just to be positive, but either way Curtis said he firmly believes the module is good if it’s buzzing still, and Tim is helping me troubleshoot the module and said they willwill test it and the momentary switch if don’t get it figured out. It’s gonna be the damn death of me I swear.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Mine should still be under warranty, I’m currently in discussion with them about it. I’m stripping her down to check for any shorts anywhere in any circuit just to be positive, but either way Curtis said he firmly believes the module is good if it’s buzzing still, and Tim is helping me troubleshoot the module and said they willwill test it and the momentary switch if don’t get it figured out. It’s gonna be the damn death of me I swear.
I get it man. Your best bet for the moment is to breathe in, breathe out.... its gonna be alright. Once the 'hate ' is over, the 'love' will begin. Hang in there.
 

Nwhicks21

Member
Started unhooking shit with the key on, and the buzzing in the ehc stopped when I reached this connector… I assume the compression releases since they lead under the valve covers or whatever they are… Curtis said the buzzing means something is shorted out, possible culprit?? There is a little tear in the insulation ?
 

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Nwhicks21

Member
I get it man. Your best bet for the moment is to breathe in, breathe out.... its gonna be alright. Once the 'hate ' is over, the 'love' will begin. Hang in there.
Yea I’m trying brother, but damn…. I just wish I could catch a break… just one time. I’ve not ONCE in a year almost since I bought this thing actually got a full day of riding out of it. It’s fuckn depressing man, this thing is sucking the life out of me.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Keep @ it and it will come together. You will forget all the crap unless you revisit this thread. The wind has a way of helping us forget. You got this.
 
Started unhooking shit with the key on, and the buzzing in the ehc stopped when I reached this connector… I assume the compression releases since they lead under the valve covers or whatever they are… Curtis said the buzzing means something is shorted out, possible culprit?? There is a little tear in the insulation ?
if your troubleshooting the electrical system, I recommend unhooking the battery. a good multimeter should help check continuity.
 

Nwhicks21

Member
This is the problem, whatever this circuit is right here idk, wsw told me unhook until the buzzing stops, and I literally unhooked every damn thing and this was only thing that stopped it besides the ignition switch plug. Anyone have any idea? Power wire connected to the post in the battery compartment with the vr connector
 

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Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
Started unhooking shit with the key on, and the buzzing in the ehc stopped when I reached this connector… I assume the compression releases since they lead under the valve covers or whatever they are… Curtis said the buzzing means something is shorted out, possible culprit?? There is a little tear in the insulation ?
Yes. Check that wiring very closely. Any bare wire will play hell with your electrical system. Just be patient. You will figure out. Definitely a Love/Hate relationship with these sleds. But when they’re right. They are really right!
:cheers: :chopper:
 

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member
This is the problem, whatever this circuit is right here idk, wsw told me unhook until the buzzing stops, and I literally unhooked every damn thing and this was only thing that stopped it besides the ignition switch plug. Anyone have any idea? Power wire connected to the post in the battery compartment with the vr connector
The only thing that should be connected to the VR connection is a 40a inline fuse to the positive terminal. EVERYTHING else should connect directly to the battery.
 

Nwhicks21

Member
The only thing that should be connected to the VR connection is a 40a inline fuse to the positive terminal. EVERYTHING else should connect directly to the battery.
I have an additional positive post in the battery box and there’s vr terminal, the one in the pic I showed you, and a jumper wire with 40 amp inline fuse that goes to the battery all that are hooked up
 
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