Forward Controls - Please Check for your Safety!!

[headshothills]

Hey Guys,

I dont know if this has been brought up or mentioned before, but I wanted to make sure that anyone using extended forward controls, please double check the right (Brake Side) bolts.

The right side has a plate that bolts to the frame with 2 socket head bolts. I was getting on the freeway on Saturday, went to tap the rear brake and the whole forward control rotated down, leaving me without any rear brakes. This could have been really bad if I needed them in a hurry to stop..

One of the bolts sheared off, about 2 threads from the head, they are metal bolts, but I honestly couldnt tell you if they are hardened steel or not, they dont seem to be. They are 3/8-16 x 1" I replaced both with Stainless Steel ones from Ace...

I just wanted other riders to know, and if anything, help save someone from an accident...

 

[Little-Boo]

Good to know

Carlos

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Good heads up but I would highly recommend you go to a grade 8 zinc bolt.
Stainless Steel is a brittle metal and does not hold up well to the types of stresses that are put on them in that location.
BD learned that secret the hard way over the years.

 

[LUPHOLE]

thanks guys---the things to learn here are better than porn. well, maybe not that good but really good!!

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

I had this happen on my first Big Dog k-9 driving to FL a couple of years ago.
When I looked at mine, the frame of the k-9 had a protrusion where the one bolt meet the plate for the extended control so that the plate did not sit flat against the mount. I took and modified the plate to have a countersink and now the plate is FIRMLY against the frame mount and I've had no trouble since on that or my current k-9 -- wish I had taken pictures.
Curtis is bang on -- DO NOT USE STAINLESS in this app -- pure grade 8 bolt is needed.

 

[headshothills]

Good heads up but I would highly recommend you go to a grade 8 zinc bolt.
Stainless Steel is a brittle metal and does not hold up well to the types of stresses that are put on them in that location.
BD learned that secret the hard way over the years.

Curtis, I highly considered a Grade 8, and even checked into it with a professional motor builder. He advised against it due to the fact that the Grade 8 wouldnt withstand the fatigue. Im not one to argue, I just said ok. He said use SS, he said the stainless would perform better and allow the fatigue without shearing. That was the only reason I went SS. I have no problem switching them out, but that was the reasoning behind my SS choice. After all, they were a couple of bucks...No biggie, I can swap them, takes 2 min...

I had this happen on my first Big Dog k-9 driving to FL a couple of years ago.
When I looked at mine, the frame of the k-9 had a protrusion where the one bolt meet the plate for the extended control so that the plate did not sit flat against the mount. I took and modified the plate to have a countersink and now the plate is FIRMLY against the frame mount and I've had no trouble since on that or my current k-9 -- wish I had taken pictures.
Curtis is bang on -- DO NOT USE STAINLESS in this app -- pure grade 8 bolt is needed.

Mike I noticed the same thing, theres a ring that protrudes from the frame plate that doesnt allow the forward control plate to sit flush. I also noticed that the lower ear bolt goes through and actually applied outward pressure, not much, but might have to shave that down a tad too....

Again, had this been a moment where I really needed the rear brakes, this would have been a really bad outcome, thank god I didnt. Just want to make sure others know, and if anything, spend a couple of bucks and replace the ones they have for piece of mind, it might just save you an insurance claim and medical bills...

Ill get some grade 8's in the meantime...

 

[bearman]

....checked into it with a professional motor builder. He advised against it due to the fact that the Grade 8 wouldnt withstand the fatigue.....

Stainless is OK as long as you use the 316 or 316L. Pretty much every other grade of stainless is weaker and less corrosion resistant.

BUT GRADE 8 IS BETTER.

here is a link to a website that discusses the false claim that grade 8 bolts are brittle.

http://tinelok.com/grade-5-vs-grade-8-fasteners/

it says;
" Nearly all fasteners are considered ductile except some made from PH 15-6 Mo, 17-4 PH and 17-7 PH."

and also;
"Almost all fastener fatigue failures are the result of improper (almost always too low) torque. Too low a torque will cause the fastener to pick up more load more often and eventually cycle it to failure. Therefore, you want to make sure you torque your fasteners to the appropriate level using a torque wrench and make sure to torque dry, clean threads.
Lubricated threads significantly change the actual preload on the fastener and you risk over torqueing it."

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Curtis, I highly considered a Grade 8, and even checked into it with a professional motor builder. He advised against it due to the fact that the Grade 8 wouldnt withstand the fatigue. .

If you are worried about fatigue and haven't done something about the protusion (which I believe to be the real issue) I'd still use grade 8 bolts but change them periodically, say every 30K or 3 yrs. Cheap warm fuzzy to feel better about the bike and know the bolts are torqued properly and of good quality.