Forward Controls and Boot Clearance...

[headshothills]

So Ive searched a few threads of regarding the forward controls and boot clearance.. Yesterday I picked up a new pair of Milwaukee Motorcycle boots, got on the bike and left the store. Struggled with clearance and the ballerina toe point to get it home.. Got it home and without knowing any better, adjusted it and thought I was good... Until I got down the road and couldnt shift up into 2nd... Went back home, realized the forward controls have a stopping point and if you adjust it to much to get clearance, it wont upshift with enough room before it stops.. Adjusted it again so that it could upshift into 2nd...

Still not very comfortable and still have to somewhat point the toe to get it under...

Did anyone ever resolve this?? All of the posts I have read have left the resolution to this unanswered...

If the sole of the boot wasnt so thick where it rests on the foot peg, Id be good, but between the toes height and the sole, its not a natural comfort spot to shift up... Even if the Foot rests were slightly smaller in diameter and the shifter was slight smaller I think I would be perfect..

Are any of the aftermarket shifters/foot rests slightly smaller in diameter as compared to the stock BDs?? Such as the XOPRODOX ??

 

[Mr. Wright]

I'm kind of an extreme person, and when I do something it's all out. I made 3'' forward controls for my bike an cut the shift rod in 4 places, drilled and tapped each piece and added a spacer in each gap.

 

[headshothills]

I'm kind of an extreme person, and when I do something it's all out. I made 3'' forward controls for my bike an cut the shift rod in 4 places, drilled and tapped each piece and added a spacer in each gap.

Nice!!

There issue as a few have pointed out isnt so much the adjustment bar, its the mechanism in the forward control.. There's 3 prongs on the actual shift pedal that extend into the footrest. These 3 prongs, rotate in their "C" cut notches internally in the footrest. I assume that the size of these notch holes, determine the amount of travel the foot shifter can travel...

So if you adjust the arms and take out all the threads on the helms, essentially shortening the distance to allow more clearance for your foot to get under the shifter, you are rotating those 3 prongs in the shifter to its "C" notch stop point, where it wont allow it to travel anymore, cause its at the top of the C... which is what I encountered when shortened it.. The 3 prongs didnt have any more room to travel in their notches when trying to shift upwards...

I didnt know if anyone tried modifying those notches to make the C shape bigger to allow more travel of the foot shifter coming upwards for upshifting, which would essentially allow more travel....

 

[kickstart]

I have several pairs of boots that just don't have enough room when on the dog and there is not anything that can be done to change that with the BD design.

Much cheaper to get other boots. :up:

 

[HMAN]

FWIW, I have a pair of Milwaukee boots as well.(love em 2) I just use the sole that sticks out on the inside of the foot to upshift with. It fits the end cap nicely. Works for me anyway. Just my .02

 

[headshothills]

I have several pairs of boots that just don't have enough room when on the dog and there is not anything that can be done to change that with the BD design.

Much cheaper to get other boots. :up:

I hear yah... Guess its one of those Learning Exp people talk about...

FWIW, I have a pair of Milwaukee boots as well.(love em 2) I just use the sole that sticks out on the inside of the foot to upshift with. It fits the end cap nicely. Works for me anyway. Just my .02

HMAN that's exactly what I did when I rode home.. Wasn't bad, just wasnt used to it....